mistyblue82

I think to do the lot you will also need this one - http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=606&Car_Type=300&UID=2012031913404089.242.179.184 Here's is the guide to what goes where, with aftermarket adjustable arms we'll end up with loads of spares...stick em on ebay! http://www.czp.us/images/energysuspension/17411.pdf

No I think that is the tension rods that they mean by radius arm

Been meaning to get a price from Mr F as well, he has a kit listed but doesn't have everything I need listed http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/product_info.php?pid=177

I've been sizing up this kit Dave http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=221&Car_Type=300&UID=2012031414250292.28.161.171

Why would a drift team want MORE grip? :huh:

Best thing you can do BigC is to put the spec of your current wheels and tyres into this calculator. You know exactly how they sit, so when you put the new details in and the comparison comes out you should be able to work out if you will have rubbing or sticking out problems - ie if the calculator says it will not require anymore inner clearance but it will stick out 20mm more then you will know that means you will be sitting flush and have no inner clearance issues. http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

Not had any experience of it but they've gone to the bother of banning its use in motorsport so it must work!

Sandy has at least one breaker just now mate give him a shout

Anybody know what size replacement dust boots I be needing for driftworks arms? Found a few people supplying them but driftworks are stocking them soon so they aren't keen on telling me what size I need for ordering elsewhere :innocent: but I've heard "we'll have them in next week" from other suppliers before and I'd like to at least be able to compare prices.

Some here with z32 wheels on - first one has 1 inch spacers! http://wheelshow.redz31.net/wheelshow16.html

Aye they fit mate but will really need spacers or they'll sit quite far in the arch because the z31 can take a lower offset than the z32

Get a TT, if it doesn't already have a hicas lockout kit then buy one, swap the bits you like off the NA then punt it.

Yes mate

LOL Vods - I WISH it was mine mate, I wasn't advertising it for sale...I was just posting it for info.

As title says

Aye mate the rear part of NA drive shaft lines up with TT front, its the rear end of the rear piece that's different and that's why you need the rear of NA one. Filling with oil - http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/168/Nissan/300ZX/Z32_%281990-96%29/Transmission/Transmission:_Transmission_and_Differential_Fluid_Change/#.T1fQI_XdUWY

Would be funny if the driver of it could read this, driving around thinking he's ultra cool only to find out a passer by described him as a bald guy wearing a pink shirt, driving a car that looks like a 20 year old nissan :laugh:

:biggrin: here's some ..............I stand by my original post! Apologies in advance, I know a couple of folk on here have a single exit setup :surrender:

Aye here you go, it looks just like this :biggrin:

diagram here mate - http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/431-rear-suspension/-c-882_883_976_980.html

Not done the diff yet but it sounds like every job i ever do on the car...it all sounds straight forward then something like this happens and drives you up the wall. i don't know if this is any different to how you are doing it but I found a guide online which says: Differential Re-Installation: Roll the differential back under the car and lift it using your jack. Lift the front of the differential, the driveshaft flange, over the anti-sway bar and push the whole differential forward. This should give you enough room to rotate the back end up and align the studs on the differential with the holes in the rear bushings(Don't put the little cups back in yet....) Move the differential as far back into the rear bushings as you can now. Move the differential by lifting it on the floor jack and moving it side to side by hand until you get the studs pretty much centered in the bushings. Tap the metal cups over the studs. The inside of the cup should face you(face the rear of the car) as you are tapping it on. Once it is on far enough, start the nuts on each stud. Leaving things loose, turn your attention to the front of the differential. I had to remove the floor jack to get enough room to slide the front differential support into place, but you may not have to. Move the differential slightly as needed to get the 4 bolts started, no alignment problems at all here! Loosely tighten all 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding differential into place. Find your alignment marks on your half shaft flanges and driveshaft flanges, and reinstall driveshaft and half shaft fasteners. This will require putting the handbrake on and off and tightening 2 bolts at a time just like in the removal sequence. Reinstall ABS brackets and mounting bolts, and reconnect the connector. Tighten the 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding the differential into place. Full guide with some photos here - http://www.yugobernie.com/images/SubFrame_Bushings/Guide/ES_Diff_Install.pdf

The pre-facelift ones like yours would have a scoop if it was a turbo but the sitched it on the facelift ones from 87-

Hi mate, it was me that mentioned meister extention but I was just guessing since a few members bought these when the deal was on. The ones you are after are mentioned on DCPerformance website at the foot of this page so give them a buzz http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/about/bc-racing.html "Optional upgrades: Damper adjusting extenders - to save you the time and trouble of removing the parcel shelf each time you want to adjust the damping on your BC Racing coilovers we can offer pairs of adjuster extenders. These attach to the adjuster knob on the top of the coilover and are available in three lengths, 110mm, 200mm and 250mm. They attach in seconds with a simple grub screw design. "

More than likely just a brittle hose that's split from the cold weather. I had a scare with mine last year, there was steam near the windscreen so I opened the bonnet and it looked like it was leaking at the gasket but when it cooled down and had a chance to get it inspected it was just a brittle coolant pipe at the back of the engine bay that had a small split and was spraying the coolant off the back of the block thankfully. Here's a wee video tour of mine

Quickest z31 sale ever, think it was up for less than a week...they seem to be coming back into fashion lately, I've seen a few come up for sale but that one did look to be the tidiest I've seen in a long time. I'm in Scotland too, got z31 NA but its rarely seen any action since I got a z32 tt in the summer. It may take a day or two before anyone gets back to you on zclub as its not as busy as on here but there are a few folk that should offer you some tips, including Mike Feeney from MJP who is on here as well as zclub.net - he's your man for spare parts for the z31 by the way if you don't know him already - http://www.mjpauto.com/300z31.html best to give him a phone as he has stock/has access to a lot more than the website lists. Your best bet is to put up a 'check out my new z31' thread with some pic to get attention and then ask for some help with the overheating :thumbup: