Yowser

Yep. I bought my Stern splitrim alloys of Greg. From the research I did, they do supply a lot of wheels to Porsche's, are US Based, and have no UK suppliers.

PMSL :rofl:

KYB AGX adjustable shocks with Eibach springs always come recomended and as a very popular choice. I've driven a zed with this setup and not only did it handle far better, but it also rode better than stock. Review : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=44300 and another :http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=614740

at 26 you should'nt find a problem getting insurance..or is it that the quotes are too high ? Im 25 with 4 yrs NCB on a Import TT and I paid £650 Fully comp through Admiral http://www.admiral.uk.com last week.

Well there not the correct ones NGK plugs listed for the Zed on stock or higher boost...so Yes, they are the wrong ones.

you can make anything fit ;) But it only kicks out 185bhp, would do single figure mpg and probably ways twice as much as stock engine. :rofl:

There are a number of choices out there. Ryan @ Ztech recomends the JWT Ecu chip. I believe he can also supply (and fit).

Yep 7psi is Safety boost. ECU diagnostics here : http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html Your timing will also have been retarded, and performance would be very noticably slower (but if its been like that since you got car then you may not have driven the car when its running how it should be)

Yes

OMG....some truly awfull and rediculous modifications (some worse than others)...and the only decent looking one is the zed (or am I just being biased...love is blind..etc?)

Porterfield Carbon Kevlar Front Brake Pads are a recomended pad upgrade for the zed. If your current setup is poor then its best to get them inspected. Sticking caliper piston/seals are a common problem on the stock setup.

Thats the Full 60k service, which should be done at same time as changing the cambelt. It would be a big mistake to only change the cambelt and leave everything else not done.

A simple, but basic test is to Jack the rear up and check for play by firmly wiggling the rear wheels. There should'nt be any lateral movement. If you know anyone with a Conzult, there is a Hicas diagnostic on that too.

Yep, after much research, I use Castrol RS 10/60

Well, the E46 M3 matches your description perfectly. MPG is going to be in the Low 20's average, but has a good sized fuel tank. I could'nt recomend any other vehicle....except perhaps a Skyline GTR (not strictky RWD, but certainly more RWD Orientated than the other jap 4x4 taxi)...but tbh I'd prob take the M3 over the Skyline.

Also in FAQ Storage area with Pictures : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=30098

I had mine decatted the other week. Makes a nice improvement to Spool up and response. It also altered the exhaust note, to make it slightly deeper...but I already had a Cat-back system and that is where the most sound difference comes from.

Oneday (outlander motorsport) has his own Traders section on forum with full contact details. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=97 Also website : http://www.outlanderproducts.co.uk/

Thanks Ryan, I'll be in touch :D

Hope yourself and the soon-to-be Mrs Cybernet have a Wonderfull day. All the best :duffer:

Bling!

ohh errr :eek: Thanks for the Steering wheel Pijnhouse and cup of tea yesterday.....if I keep this up my car will be a complete replica of your spare parts car :rofl: I'll be there

The speed reading was WAY out, till I changed it back from MPH to KPH. Now it reads perfect except it says its in KPH, but its really in MPH. The reason being that I have Jap clocks with a MPH convertor. So it was reading my signal, which was really in MPH and converting what it thought was KPH back in MPH again.

Follow the advice above on checking actual date of manufacturer. Not that it really makes any difference, just use it as a haggling point on the price. Just because its a couple of years older does'nt nessarily mean there is anything wrong with it. Also note that its pretty typical for a 91 car to be registered in 92, or a 92 to be registered in 93. Date of registration is really the date of sale, not date of manufacturer.

Installed Nissan Datascan ECU Diagnostics software on the in-car computer, which is a kind of mini more basic version of conzult and have taken some screenshots. One is at Idle, the other is at 2000rpm on very light throttle. Can anybody who knows their stuff, just take a look at the readouts and tell me if there if everything looks about right. I noticed a couple of things : 1. Idle is too high, but TPS volts is correct. 2. LH O2 Sensor is a bit more lazy than the RH one. It does'nt move at idle, and the other one flickers a little at idle. At 2000rpm both of them merrylier go backwards and forwards from about 2-7 3 Timing @ Idle is 15 when warmed up, but was considerably higher when cold. Is that normal ? 4. I noticed at the bottom of that on light throttle the A/F bit says Rich at idle, but lean at 2000rpm with light throttle. I think it goes from Rich to lean and back over the rev range depending on throttle.