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Yowser

Registered Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Yowser

  1. Correct. Important on a NA. Not so important on a TT as the air wether hot or cold that gets sucked in by the Induction kit then gets heated up (a lot!) as it travels through the turbos, and then is cooled again as it travels through the Intercoolers before entering the engine.
  2. http://www.leadergears.com
  3. Even if other company could come anywhere near matching SWZ prices you would be crazy to go to them instead of our Club 300zx Specialist garage.
  4. Not much point removing on a Standard or even mildly modified example, unless you never use it anyway. However if your going full out then its worth removing.
  5. http://www.leadergears.com
  6. I was'nt aware of the 200mph goal, but I was'nt talking about basic, cheap or all show. if not already done so, speak to Slickpete and/or JD (maxsunny to I believe), they both have had Rollcages built for the Z32....for High performance track work.
  7. Actually its £8k :x: sorry Although You could easily spend less than £1k for a high quality interior retrim ! and I know others that have had a decent custom rollcage for about £500 Depending on what wheels you want there are plenty of 19's out there with rubber for £1k-£1.5k so thats saved £2.5k - £3k already :D
  8. Apexi Induction kit is most popular Filter for the 300zx. Same for TT and NA No need to go anywhere near the Aircon for cambelt change.
  9. Colour code is 732. Its on your VIN plate under bonnet. There is another shade of black, but its not metallic.
  10. Start at 15k in the UK, less if imported yourself My vote is to keep the zed though !
  11. SWZ have them all in stock, they will know the part numbers (and will also be the cheapest available in the UK)
  12. NSX perhaps
  13. I would'nt leave it off. Give it a good clean and polish both sides before refitting.
  14. With the Zed's and Supra Club combined we have 30+ :D
  15. Yep needs to be been done in 3rd. They get it up to 3rd and then stick it in hold. 4th ratio is 1:0.694 so wont be accurate unfortunatly., whereas 3rd is 1.1 Manuals are done in 4th gear. (1:1) you can get it RR properly Next week with SWZ :)
  16. Thats an Aftermarket R32 GTR Clutch Pack LSD. I would not go for a Clutch Pack LSD for the street. Very noisy when turning. Plus that 4.3 ratio is going to hurt your your motorway comfort and fuel economy. Its designed for 1/4 mile drag racing. Your best bet would just be to bolt up a complete NA rear subframe with 4.08 Diff. Yes, the NA diff is'nt as strong as the TT diff...but that does'nt mean its not plenty strong enough for any power your going to throw at it. Plenty of high powered Z32's in the States and Aus with the NA diff setup. The NA subframe and Diff is also around 100Ibs(45kg) lighter than the TT setup. The Stock Viscous LSD is the best setup for the street. If your after a aftermarket Diff setup for Track racing, then take a look at Quaife.
  17. Definatly the alternator belt. Belt is too loose, and alternator is working hard to charge battery causing it to slip. Worse when Aircon running, as there is extra load of it work with.
  18. The Walbro are a very popular aftermarket fuel pump. They dont flow any more than the stock pump despite there claims (stock is 255lph), but they are of high quality.
  19. Z32 = 2 seater Non Turbo CZ32 = 2 seater Twin Turbo GZ32 = 2+2 non Turbo GCZ32 = 2+2 Twin Turbo HZ32 = Convertable Non Turbo
  20. At above 500rwhp , a dual MAF setup offers better accuracy and less restriction. No real benefit below those sort of power levels. You would need 2 MAfs, 2 Filters, twin Intake ducting, ECU remap and/or SAFC
  21. Check all the connections first...the Main beam and Dipped beams are seperate systems. Failing that speak to Danny @ DTA for replacement HID bulbs
  22. If we sort a meeting time then SW and Wales could meet up and convoy the rest of the way in together
  23. Jackie Brown....in my pants
  24. I had 3x 52mm Gauges in my DIN slot...that was a tight squeeze...not a problem if your going to start cutting it up and fabricate though. If your having them in the DIN, or anywhere out of line of sight then Ideally you want Peak/Warning features. Very old picture, before the Fabricated Screen :
  25. This is quite a handy comparison dyno of the more popular turbo options :

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