Yowser

..and just to complicate things further LOL - I personally don't consider either the 1/4mile or highest BHP to prove the fastest car. Although I do agree that 1/4 mile is the easiest comparison.

Some owners have made wooden ramps which work really well. There is a thread or 2 on here for them. At home I just use regular ramps from Halfords myself. You can drive up them on full lock if you need just 1 corner in the air, or you can jack the car up and put the ramps under the wheels and let it back down. At work I use a 4 poster :D

Look out for VW Golf buying guide instead ? More common, same car.

that means no errors. The problem is mechanical. If your lucky then its either low on fliud or needs a fluid and filter change....otherwise its new or recon Box time Im afraid. Unfortunatly the syptons you describe is very common and typical of the autobox failure.

Do you have the pad shims installed, and have you used copper grease on the back of the pads ?

If you could get to 7500rpm in 5th, then you would hit 200mph in a TT Manual You would need a lot of power to overcome the aero resistance however. There's probably some sort to calculator out there than can work it out based on the cofficient dray (0.31 for a 300zx I think?)

Stock profile = 50 TT Manual final drive - 0.752 Rear diff - 3.69 TT Auto final drive - 0.694 Rear diff -3.69 NA Manual final drive - 0.752 Rear diff - 4.08 NA Auto final drive - 0.694 Rear diff - 4.08

It was ok. Not the greatest series they've done. I'd much prefer naked hot tub with Snowys ex ! :D

yeh. I fixed it for you :D

is the date correct on the other PC ?

You'll still hit 165+ with a NA diff, but it will get there much quicker !

5 in the morning :eek:

I think the Auto is geared to just over 200mph, and the manual to just under. But thats all based on you having enough power to get it there. Stock profile is 50 btw

I do like an open fire to sit around on the beach

ouch! Although that was Mac_1 power and with Slick tyres. I've heard of high powered examples snapping the driveshafts when launching at the drag strip with slicks too.

Thanks Steve, thats a pretty good idea. Will look for an Isolater switch.

In the middle of my Battery relocation at the moment, but I want to keep some sort of point in the engine bay that can be used for Jump starting. Some sort of Terminal block that I can mount in engine that will connect the 2AWG cable from starter motor to my Battery location in the boot. Would need to be shielded/sealed (so it does'nt come in contact with anything that might earth it out and blow my electrics up) but that can be accessed for jump leads. Ebay did'nt find anything when I typed my description in :rolleyes: Any ideas what it would be called or where I can get it from ?

Welcome ! :cool: :duffer:

http://www.youtube.com/swf/l.swf?video_id=uCyuEQKNyvA LOL

Looking good that Jimmy. Very nice :cool:

I thought they had changed it from not being just new cars, but all cars made since 2001. No change to cars prior to 2001.

maybe..maybe not....will see

As said, the stock gauge is innaccurate and the small hole on the sender itself gets blocked and display a low reading. Noisy hydraulic lifters is very common when not been run in a while, especially with old oil, and the fact that it went away after a drive shows that the oil pressure is ok. Fuel smell is more than likely leaking fuel pipes in the engine bay, very common, but could also just be failing o2 sensors(also very common) or FPR making it run rich at idle, neither particular expensive. Congrats on the purchase. I'd Give her a good oil change...in fact give her a complete fluid change.

Speak to John Dixon. He is by far the most experienced stock ECU tuner we have on board, and will most likely be able create a "get you going/running in map" for you to use at first. Once you know everything is working, you could then either go with john to get it mapped properly on a Rolling road, or install the standalone ECU and trailer it to a dyno to get mapped (no need to have it running with the standalone beforehand as you've already had it running with stock mapped ECU). btw - Cams are not going to have that much affect on the ECU map, in terms of getting it started and even as much as running in the engine. Any ECU chip mapped to the correct injector size will have you running, no matter what cams are in there, but you dont want to be driving around on full boost or full throttle without correct mapping.

I've done a couple of sets, but its a PITA to do.....mainly the way you have to get them separated....using the Kitchen oven. they are a big improvement over standard, but they dont look as good as the genuine versions.