Yowser

It will be loose sensor. Depending on how quickly it drops/rises the Temp gauge is'nt sensitive enough to rise and fall that quickly from air pockets.

Because they are Road Legal Slicks tyres meant for track days, that you can use to get the car to and from the track legally.

Yep, then all 3 cars brakes definatly not working properly

yes, it should completely lock up to a screeching halt if you just slam on the brakes and dont try and modulate the pedal yourself.

perhaps certain designs, I dont remember what make the Brace I fitted was

it would'nt lock up !? Yep, you definatly need to overhaul

Looks like I wont be able to make this :( Was looking to come to cornwall for the weekend, but the relatives have decided they are coming here instead for that weekend :rant:

:hyper::dance::bow:

I've only ever fitted both to the same car once and had no problems with fitting The Brake brace bolts to the same place as the Cruise control unit, while the strut brace bolts to the err..struts. :)

In completely stock form...No. Very few production road cars are. Its Fine for the odd Track day, where your not actually racing or pushing the car to its limits though. There is plenty you can do to improve the car for the track, mostly involving suspension upgrades, but the 2 problem area's are the Oil system and the Brakes. Brakes They are too small for extended high speed braking around a track and will become a problem after a couple of laps on a track (or a few corners on Nurburgring!). Their size means thay have trouble dissipating heat properly. If the pedal goes soft then the Fliud has been boiled and you should'nt take it out again without replacing it. If the pedal feels firm but the car just isn't stopping then thats the brake components themselves overheating = brake fade. Upgrading to something like GTR/350z Brembo Sized brakes all around is an improvement, and will probbaly do you fine for the occasional track day. But Most GTR owners replace them becuase of the same problems when they get more hardcore use. AP Racing, Stoptech, Ksport, Rotora all offer Track suited Brake upgrades. Oil System The 300zx Oil system is flawed for track use, as is the same for many other high performance road cars. Under High G-force cornering the oil is pushed away from the pickup and pressure drops. Lower end bearing damage is common and I've seen plenty of Rods sticking out the side of blocks. It also suffers with Oil surge through the PCV system, resulting in smoking exhausts as it burns off the surging oil. Options - Run an extra half litre of oil on the track. Many do this, perfectly safe then just drain the extra oil out for the trip home Relocate the PCV valves - Wont stop oil cavitation but will stop it burning smoke from oil surge A Larger Baffled Sump with trap doors (specialtyz.com can supply on a exchange basis) Fit an Oil accumulator system -Used an extra external pressurised container and monitors oil pressure. The instant it drops it releases extra oil into the system to protect it. Then as oil pressure rises it draws it back out to the correct level again. Dry Sump system] - Uses an External oil reservoir and pump. No concerns about Oil starvation and quite a few additional benefits but Very expensive. Many on the above list are for regular track users pushing the car to the limits. For your first trip to Nurburgring , I would make sure your cooling system is up to scratch and overhaul the Brake system - New fluid, pads, check caliper Pistons are working correctly and run an extra half litre of oil in the sump while your on track. Then just take it easy and enjoy yourself !

You basically want to clean up any casting flash inside the block's coolant galleries. You'll notice them once engine is stripped. If your getting the block/heads decked and honed/bored then get the engineering shop to do it.

It was'nt that long ago that £3k would only get you a complete dog, but these days £3k is a decent enough figure to get a good example. Thats not to say there still are'nt plenty of people passing of bad examples for that price though. Check out the Cars for sale here, its much better to buy from an Enthusiast and you can use the search tool to check on its history. Rear through the buyers guide (its in the FAQ section) and test a few before buying. I've driven many examples that would of put me of them for life if I hadn't had experience of good examples too. If your set on a UK car then they are harder to find as about 80% of Zed's in this country are Imports. UK cars were available as 2+2 Twin Turbo's only. You do have a better chance of full service history, but be warned the vast majority of UK cars are suffering very badly with Corrosion unless garaged all their life or have had recent extensive repairs. You will want to carefully inspect the underside of the vehicle, especially the sills towards the rear arch, beneath the rear bumper and around the strut mounts in engine bay. Imports were available as 2+2 and SWB(2 seater). Twin Turbo & Non-turbo, and the rarer slicktop and Convertible models. They tend to be a lot lower mileage and those that have not been in the country long are like brand new underneath. Its likely that the examples you've seen with lower mileage would of been Imports.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there !!! I completely missed the bit about it being on damp roads. It would seem that the downfall is the ABS system on damp surfaces that can not modulate as quickly as modern systems Combined with Performance Summer tyres not at their best in wet conditions ....which means the 300zx suffers with wet braking.

1990 Nissan 300zx 60-0mph = 116 ft 2001 Bmw 530d 60-0mph = 119 ft 2002 Bmw X5 60-0mph = 117 ft These are dry braking distances. Modern cars feel like they brake a lot better becuase of the intial braking response. They are much sharper, whereas the 300zx braking is far more progressive and requires more pedal pressure for the same effect.

Yes, there are lots of Uprated Radiators out there. Koyo were always the most popular, but there are plenty others out there. If you are rebuilding the engine then its a good idea to remove the castings on the water channels around the engine, in particular around the back 2 cylinders, as they suffer the most.

here's a shocker that most wont believe - The 300zx stock Braking distance is still better than most modern cars ! Nissan 300zx Stock braking distance 60-0mph = 116ft Most modern sports cars are 110-120ft and most modern family cars are more like 130ft Braking distance is more about tyre grip than braking force. I cant find any braking distance tests for the Vito online though, but unless it has better braking than mercedes car range then I'd still say none of your brakes were working correctly. If the ABS was kicking in then the brakes are stopping you as quickly as tyre grip will allow. Bigger brakes wont necessarily reduce the stopping distance, just the initial bite/response and reduces brake fade. If ABS was'nt kicking in...then there is a brake torque problem. What they suck at is initial bite, brake fade and boiling brake fliud with prolonged use due to overheating (such as at the track).

Yep

Front wings are the same.

First you would have to find a Stock Zed with good condition suspension, brakes and engine. Very few and far between.

My previous Daily driver was a 406, and the wife drives an Xantia which uses the same seats - and I'd rate them as very average! Not entirely sure why everyone is posting up suggestions for seats from regular/luxury cars though, when Steve's after Lightweight reclining sports seats LOL :rofl: :rofl:

Yep, side by side the Genunine 99's look much better but if you want to go that route then there are loads of posts on here about it, try searching for "diy lights".

Yep, as above. I used a FIA approved harness plate. Such as : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Harness-eye-backing-plate-FIA-approved-x-5_W0QQitemZ370125680373QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item370125680373&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1301|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318

Definatly avoid those ebay jobbies if your after ride quality ! Something like KYB AGX dampers and Eibach springs offer fantastic ride quality and improved handling. Transforms the car. or as Rich says MJP can custom make springs to whatever spec you want. You have to be carefull with lowering though, as the lower you go the stiff they need to be to keep the car off the bumpstops.

If I was to buy lightwight aftermarket sports recliners I would be looking at the Cobra Misano's. Not quite a Lightweight sports Recliner though :rofl:

no, you wont notice a performance increase on it own, there is parastic drag loss, but not noticable (and the aircon switched off with full throttle anyway) but it does improve airflow to the main radiator and really it should be done as part of an overall weight saving effort.