Yowser

Ah, perhaps its only certain years then. I swapped the larger UK pulley that came on my engine (from a 93 UK) for a smaller jap pulley.

No, thats just the Core sizes

Looks like a great example. Has the rare blue Interior trim.

Yep, All the blue Z pics on this page are the exact same car. The colour change is very strong between light and dark.

:)

The UK and Jap models have different size stock water pulleys. The UK Pulley is much larger than the Jap Pulley (I imagine this it to prevent water cativation at high speed on European roads). I do not believe there are any problems with an undersize crank pulley on a Jap model. However fitting an undersize pulley on a UK model could potentially cause more of a risk to overheating issues than a Jap Model.

Looks like the new RS is comparable to a TT Z and the ST comparable to an NA Z....at low speeds anyway,

Not unless its stats are wrong. Seems to be 5.8 - 6.0 secs. So the RS is slower to 60 too, but very close. They are definatly slower in the mid range speeds and top end. No idea how the ST compares to the RS, always thought the RS was the hot version and the ST was just the "warm" version. But Im proud to admit I know bugger all about fords :D

Isn't the ST the softer version of the RS ? The RS is slower than standard Z.

Cheddar, its always sunny there. Im only a "maybe" though

yeh, I was going to say 3 or 4mm

Its a Skyline GTR colour

wow, thats an usual series of failures. Definatly not normal issues there. With all that recent bad luck lets hope there is a whole load of Good luck round the corner for you.

Mine is Bayside Blue. Its very difficult to catch the actual colour on camera. There is a lot of colour change between light and dark. I have pics where it looks a lot darker than Bayside and others where it looks a lot lighter :headvswal For example, I have pics of my own car looking lighter than the light version below and darker than dark version of these that are definatly bayside : Bayside looking light Bayside looking dark You would never think they are the same colour.

The U.S power figures for all turbos are way off what anyone in the UK has ever achieved, and are usually done using Race fuel. I cant find SMW1's thread, but I think his result is Flywheel HP.

have you checked this - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=122118

speak to http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk for a quote. I've used them many times and highly recommend them if you decide to get your stock turbos reconned in the UK. They can also offer upgrade options. Its been over a year since I last used them, but from memory it was round 700 the pair for stock rebuild with 360 bearings, and upgrade stages ranges from 1100-1600 the pair. You can purchase rebuild kits and DIY them. Its not something I have ever done myself though. I would cry far too much if I put the engine back in and found my DIY rebuild skills had not gone to plan. The alternative is to purchase stock or upgraded turbos from the U.S - http://www.z1motorsprots.com, http://www.conceptzperformance.com You can also purchase the CHRA (the centre part of the turbo) and fit them into your existing housings, which is a cheaper option than buying the complete stock turbo. Exchange rate not so favourable these days though.

Check out the link below. Its to one of the most respected 300zx engine builders in the U.S and it gives you a good idea(list) of parts and work that is carried out on a High end rebuild. The stage 5 option is the route I would take for the most potential but any of the stages offer reliable support, although stage 1 & 2 only include stock rods. http://www.importpartspro.com/vgloblpa.html See what Jimmer can offer, he is a top bloke and has a very good reputation here.

Yes, bear in mind that 500rwhp is a LOT of power. There are only a handfull in the UK with around that power and there is a lot of work and money involved. You could get away without upgrading the rods, but with the engine already in pieces then for a little extra its a lot more piece of mind. They have other benefits, like being lighter too helps with engine response and revving. Definatly go for the manifolds too (they are around 400) as the stock manifolds are too restrictive for the bigger turbos. Standard fuel pump is as high flowing as any aftermarket pump and your within the fueling limits. When the limit is reached then the option is to go for a 2nd fuel pump with swirl tank to keep adequate fuel flow. A typical standard autobox rebuild costs around 1200, so your looking at 1500-2000 I would estimate for a fastroad rebuild. Thats a complete estimate, its not something I have looked into before. The only persons I know of that have has a Fastroad box in the UK is Mac_1, Ryan@ztech, Mrogers and Speedfreak. However that was just one gearbox, that each of them owned and sold over the years !. I've no idea where that box is currently as speedfreak was the last to have it but his car has since been broken for parts.

PM him directly. He's not online much so may not see this thread.

You wont get 500 rwhp out of the 530bb's, not in the UK on pump fuel. 450rwhp is achievable. If you really want 500rwhp then you'll want to consider the HKS GT2530 (or Z1's equivalent which is the GT675RS) A typical upgrade list would be : Wiesco Pistons Eagle Rods Cometic headgaskets New stock or ACL Race bearings Uprated Valve springs I would defiantly go for MS/AMS Manifolds too. There are a lot of extra's you will need to include for the rebuild - Cambelt, waterpump, thermostat, Full engine Gasket set, Tensioner, Idler pulleys. Engineering shop costs - Engine bloke rebore. Head skim and pressure testing. Depending on budget you may want to consider having work done improving flow around the heads and upgraded Cams. Its also a good idea to get some of the flashing removing from the block and head waterways for improved cooling. 555 injectors will be ok if you go for the 530bb and 450rwhp, but you will want to go for bigger injectors if you really want 500rwhp+ and bigger tubs. if you go for bigger injectors then you will need a different fuel rail, either the stock 94onwards fuel rail or something like the 360 Fuel rail. Stock Crank is good for double the power your asking. I wouldn't bother with the Spitfire coils, unless you have plenty of money left afterwards. Its not a typical upgrade option. I hear the skyline boys have some good results with them though. John Dixon offers custom mapping services of your stock ECU on a dyno. The other option is to go for a standalone ECU Management system such as the AEM. For the gearbox your best bet is ringing around Gearbox specialists in Yellow pages and seeing what they can offer. Expect to pay 1500-2000 though.

I've got a good video of one in a speedboat (they are often used on modified speed boats and in Stockcar racing in the states), I'll see if I can upload it and will post the link edit: found it already online http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_cRQhW7nj8 (full throttles at about 1:10 onwards)

The T-piece is standard (you will see it when you remove your old air box) and fitting one induction cone is normal procedure and a lot less restrictive than the stock airbox. All you need to do is purchase the one induction kit and its a straight fit onto the existing stock T-piece. Fitting 2 is completely unnecessary except for very high powered setups and require extra parts to get them both to fit.

Here is a vid of a Twin Turbo VH45 in a Z - and in NA form in a 240z http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oNzb-PQI1k&feature=channel Personally not a fan of sticking a big old lazy american V8 in a Z. If your going to go V8 its got to be a VH45de :bow: