Yowser

JD has some experience with this, he is running an Electric pump on his. MR2's run electric water pumps too, and I know people retrofit these when doing engine conversions. What CFM are the fans, and how big are your radiators ?

in that case yes, you will need to change the mirrors. The mirror loom is seperate from the rest of the door loom.

yes, they will fit and the Looms should be the same so no need to swap any internals over. You will need to fit your S2 door cards to the S1 doors ofcourse (becuase of seatbelt location differences) its easier with a friend to help support the door when you undo it, and when refitting...its heavy. The loom connectors arebehind the kick panel plastics in the footwell. knock the pin out of the latch in the middle and undo the bolts on the hinges. You "may" find the mirror connectors are different, I know I have had trouble in the past with mirrosrs, but I cant remember if that was becuase it was UK vs Jap or Heated vs not heated ..etc You may not have this issue, but just bear it in mind. If you do have the issue then you can just swap mirrors over.

They go over the sill lips ? They shouldn't do, You could cut them back from underneath so you can get to the jacking point. It would'nt be noticable. If you get a low height trolley jack then you can jack the front up on the chassis beams (stay as close to front of the beam as you can, before it curved upwards). For the rear you can jack from the subframe mount in front of the rear wheels.

The Creation of the 'www' standard was an English man in 1989, but the internet was much older, dating first back to Russian satellites in the 50's and then the U.S Government and Universities with ARPANET (which became the Internet) from the 1960's through to the 1980's.

inverted? LOL

a 2nd turbo ? :rofl:

yes, 8/6 is the typical standard coilover spring rate for the Z32. If you were concerned about harshness on the road you could opt for a slightly lower 7/5 or 6/4, and then run aftermarket Antiroll bars to reduce bodyroll. The budget korean coilovers that have a bad name for their harshness, such as Ksport/D2, tend to be supplied with an OTT 12/10 setup. OEM spring rates are around 2.5 btw Depending on price of those coilovers, I would advise taking a look at the HSD Coilvoers from Driftworks to compare. They are the same coilovers as sold by SPL and Powertrix in the states, which have a good reputation for Road and Track on the Z32.

i would strongly reccomend fititing an Aftermarket water gauge. The stock gauge is not linear, It will not leave half way till the temp is over 104 degree's .... = too late. Its hard to judge from a description over the net , but it could be running hotter than normal.

make sure you give it a thorough check over before signing the RAC release sheet. Have seen a lot of Z's damaged by recovery trucks, especially when lowered with widearch and other fibreglass kits.

Welcome

We should probably start a list of those attending but not having a dyno run ? I'd love to run, but I just dont know if thats a possiblity yet...so Im down for just attending atm Attending -Dyno 1) Jimmer 2) Darryl 3) Old Zed 4) MrParr - SXOC 5) JohnWayne300 6) Funkybogolo 7) Anthonyd 8) Tim200SX - SXOC 9) Cr33ch - SXOC 10) Nap 11) madmarco 12) Murt (if my clutch is sorted by then!) Attending - No Dyno 1) Legrath

I would'nt say that. The forcourt area is very small, but they may have access to further parking around back.

Hippy Barthday *hic* :duffer:

NA option - no spoiler 89-94 94-98 99-00 (99spec)

Thats just crazy talk. 89-98 Bumper really dates the Z IMO, lets down the front end and makes the car look old (just like the 89-98 rear lights). 99spec is modern and sleek and instantly makes the car look 10yrs younger, its a huge transformation. Although I agree the 99 front is not as aggressive, but it can be when car is lowered.

I know they are advertised that way and indeed the light output wattage is lower, but the ballasts eat battery power and require constant high voltage or they dont work. Many times I've seen HID's flickering and going out, or not even turning on at all when used without an engine running with a less than 100% battery.

if she sells it advertised as a Cat C and requrieing a VIC test, then no problem. Alternatively just get it VIC tested herself. Its very straighforward there are VOSA tested all over the place, bound to be one nearby. Its just a vehicle identity check where they match the engine and chassis numbers before issueing the certificate to enable you to get the V5.

Most bushes will require an Industrial bushing press to remove and refit. Replacing the subframe bushes is a very large job, requiring the complete rear subframe of the car to be removed. I would not recommend replacing them, unless in a very poor state. Instead you can get subframe spacers which do a great job of taking up any slack in the bushes.

^ Agreed. If the seller is talking to you about "stages" then bin them. Stages are meaningless, so you have no idea what they are setup for. The remapped chips are intended to provide safe and accurate fuelling for Increased boost based on your current setup. If just running basic breathing mods - Induction kit, exhaust , then an off-the-shelf chip is all that's needed. Speak to John Dixon, AndyP, DTA or Zedworld for a new chip based on your current spec. Price is around 100pounds fitted. Boost is then increased with either a Electronic boost controller or Boost jets. 1bar /14psi is the recommended safe limit to increase to with stock injectors.

Very nice. I like the spoiler. It would benefit from different exhaust and loseing the hamburger logo. Im really into white atm

Smooth init ......and that bumper is crying out for replacement.

Ahhh..cute.

Fixed back bucket seats can be very comfortable, but its all about getting the right seats for you. Test as many as you can before purchasing, as each seat suits different people. Some have built in cushion adjustment also. When you fit them, they tend to be side mounted, and you have various holes for fitment so you can have them at the angle you prefer. I have mine reclined back. No reason for them to be upright. You can also get adjustable subframes that allow you to adjust the height and angle as well. Most are available in standard and Wider width versions. Also spend as much as you can, the cheaper the seat the less comfortable and supportive it is likely to be. You can feel a quality difference between the price ranges. A Bucket seat is a lot safer than a reclining seat. Only Bucket seats are FIA approved for Racing whereeas recliners are meant for the road only.

As kirbz said, the UK system means your under no obligation until the exchange of contracts. Just inform estate agents the situation and they will notify the buyers. That's it. Wont cost you anything. I was in a similar situation a couple of years back, except I was made redundant at the time - which totally screwed us up for getting new mortgage and we had to pull out of the sale.