Yowser

Its an engine out job. Budget for around 1200-1500 if paying a garage to remove engine and a Professional Turbo specialist to recondition the tubs.

yes, as Power increases the percentage loss decreases. It cant really be calculated as the Friction, Inertia viscous losses are not linear. As a guess, 10% does not seem unreasonable with increased power. But then again, at some point (ie. power level) the proportional losses could start having a bigger affect than the static losses - While a theoritical percentage decrease may apply when increasing from say 300 to 500hp, when instead Power is increased as high as something like 800hp, losses from Friction and subsequently viscous (heat) may have a bigger affect than they would at lower power increases. This is why its not possible to use any set fixed or percentage loss.

Percentage figures are often quoted for Flywheel to Wheel power as a very rough estimate, but its not really fair to use them, since you have both static and proportional power losses. Static losses are a fixed loss that is not affected by vehicle power and proportional losses are those that increase dependent on the load (power) put on them. A 200hp car that loses 40hp (20%) would not lose 80hp (20%) if its power was increased to 400hp, but then neither would it lose just 40hp still. A more accurate figure would be somewhere inbetween, closer to the static loss than the percentage loss ! You have friction and hydrodynamic losses in the drivetrain, which is for the most part is a static loss (ie a fixed amount, not power related) , but you also have some losses which are Power related from the side loads on helical gear teeth and bearings. You also have Rolling resistance from tyres which is increased with speed, not with power. So its not really possible to give either a fixed or percentage power loss. Some Dyno's use a simple stab-in-the-dark percentage loss calculation, and some attempt to measure the losses in deceleration as the car is coasted to a stop on the dyno. Which again is not accurate because the drivetrain is not under load in this situation and friction is increased with load. The Flywheel figure represented on a Dynosheet is a vaguely calculated guesstimate. You also have to take into account that losses on a dyno differ between cars depending on factors such as Drivetrain component condition, oil condition and viscosity, tyre pressures and drivetrain modifications.

Mjp

Mac's is RWHP

Im not that experienced with aircon, but as far as Im aware its just the valves that need to be replaced to accept the R134a gas can. This would have been done and would not affect charge temp. Might be worth PM'ing Funkyboogaloo, Im sure he works (or used to work) in the aircon trade. However the fault may not be related to the aircon recharge, but could be a temp sensor failure within the aircon system or a stuck temperature valve.

No, Its the throw that is shorter, not the gearstick.

Pull back the leather gaitor, or remvoe the gear knob. Usually shortsifters are polished/chromed or painted, whereas the stock shifter is a natural metal finish.

stock turbos will far exceed 18psi, however they are out of their efficiency range above 18psi. 14psi is a safe increase. Its the Injectors that are the limiting factor, not the turbos.

Yep, thats not good. Slower than a NA. Have you done an ECU error code test - method 1 - http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html method 2 - http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html or have it connected up to a Conzult or Datascan system

Math dictates that with the NA rear end with manual box and a 7200 rev limit the theoretical top speed is 172 mph. (190mph for TT rear end with manual box). The achievable top speed is about having enough power to reach the rev limit in 5th gear though. Something a stock engine will not do. I have not tested the top speed in practice of a TT Manual with NA rear end, but seen others in the U.S and Aus claiming 160+ still.

LOL :( trust me, if I could I would have !

Not able to get in contact with the previous owners anymore, but I have Spoken to somebody who had more involvement with this car than me and he confirmed it was last fitted with a Stock VG block and heads from a Z32.

Here is a pic of mine all one colour....that's unique for my car :rofl: Im not able to take it out for fancy shots :(

This makes me want those rear arch lips !!!! but for some reason he's missing spacers or wheels are different offset in this pic from the rear, and it makes the arches looks stupid

99spec front bumper with the swag line filled in. /thread closed ;)

I prefer it without wow..everyone prefers the more subtle original look without the big lairy aftermarket spoiler, except Si :eek: ...ok..who hacked his account !? :rofl:

no, only the stock spoiler and replica stock spoiler. There are 5 holes to be covered, 1 in each corner on the side of the tailgate and 3 along the top. Its also held on by a lot of black sealant and the paint will be a different colour underneath.

Replica Nissan 99spec spoiler no, it does'nt cover the stock spoiler holes. Tailgate needs to have holes smoothed, blended and painted before fitting spoiler.

My First Z - TT 2+2 Manual Induction kit Catback exhaust & decats John Dixon ECU 265/35/17 Falken-452 tyres On stock boost it recorded a 5.5 secs 0-60 and 14.1 secs 0-100. On 14psi boost with the same mods it did a 4.7secs 0-60 and 11.9 secs 0-100. Recorded using Datascan Diagnostics.

a couple more books to add to your collection : The Z-car Story - Nissan 300zx & 350z - Brian Long (book) Nissan 300zx & 350z Portfolio 1979-2002 - Road & track (book)

Different figures for different Magazine tests. 0-60 of around 5.6 seconds seems to be the most common time. 1/4 mile of 13.8-14.2 seconds Top Speed is 155 Limited (175'ish unlimited) Although Car & Driver magazine managed a 5.2 sec 0-60 in a SWB TT Manual.

That like mine, but I have blue stitching. I like the Mono Runner . I think a wheel that looks as if it could be oem, looks best. Dont go any smaller than 330mm .....mine is 320 and I cant see half my dials...does give that go-kart handling feeling though

Hicas uses a steering angle sensor on the steering shaft where the steering wheel bolts on. If you fit a non-hicas steering boss then the sensor no longer works. So Hicas will shut down and throw an error.

Looking great Nick, coming along nicely. I used to have a similar garage to work in......now it lives under a Cover on the driveway. :cry: