Yowser

You want one just for looks or do you want one that does its job ? For looks only check ebay, otherwise http://www.powertrix.com/z32swaybrace.htm

Welcome

Its most likelly the clutch and pulley assemblly bolted to the front of the Aircon pump. Seen it a lot where they start getting noisy before siezing up. You can replace the clutch assembly without having to disconect the pump, so no need to have to regass afterwards (providing it does'nt need regassing anyway ofcourse) In the meantime you can just press the "eco" button on the aircon pod to switch off the aircon (to stop the noise) but have the normal fans blowing.

The supra uses a Single throttle body intake, hence the single IC outlet. You would have to split the single exit back into 2, using mixture aluminium pipeing with silicone joiners . You will need to cost up the pipeing to see if its worth it, taking into account the extra hassle. http://www.viperperformance.co.uk/index.php or http://www.sfsperformance.co.uk

If its a UK then its a H3 bulb. If its a Jap then its a H3c bulb. H3 bulbs are readily available at all motor factors and most Petrol stations. H3c are not that easy to get hold off in the UK - available online though. The difference is in how they are earthed. The alternative option is to buy a standard H3 bulb and run a new earth for it. ....or Buy yourself a H3 HID 6000k Kit. Straigth plug-n-play, available from about £30 on ebay. The H3 HID kit fits both Jap and UK models. The lighting impovement is Incredible.

Non-Airbag wheel Airbag wheel

Shite design.

The electric fan thats originally mointed to the aircon rad should in no way be used as a replacement for the Viscous fan. Its knowhere near man enough. if you insist on going the electric fan route (and I dont reccomend it, they are inferior) then you will need the biggest fan you can that moves at least 2500cfm, preferably 3000cfm+ and have it mounted to the Radiator surface inside the engine bay where the viscous would normally be. You want it hooked up to a Temperature controller, most fan kits come with a controller. Your looking at a couple of hundred quid for a setup that will handle the job. You should also consider something like a SPAL PWMV, which is a programmable controller with warning facility should the fan fail. An aftermarket water temp gauge is also essenstial. ...or you can just stick to the better stock Viscous fan setup.

+5 is about right for stock boost. Stock gauges are not very accurate though.

Nice one Anthony, got to be pleased with that. Its good to see two similar runs (yours and Jimmers) being done at the same dyno on same day, very good for comparing.

Yes. its to do with the Gauge itself. The sender is a fairly typical NTC Thermister

Poor Temp sender connection on top water pipe in engine bay (its the smaller of the two connectors)

what on earth your taking about

:confused:

Yellow tape on end = windscreen washer jet pipe

fairly typical jap import mileage, but not nessairly accurate. My previous 3 Z's had mileage around 50-60k , and my slicktop shows just 42k

Engine bay and Interior are stunning. Not a big fan of the rear engine cover, but the rest of the smooth bay look is very well done and loving those Recaro's.

Moved mine to under nosepanel. Engine bay Heat is its biggest killer.

It wont. Its a non-linear gauge and wont move from that position till temp is over 100c. Utterly useless.

Slicktop - Me. From bare shell to full car. Black TT - Ztech, SWZ, Me Silver NA - SWZ, Me

Your settings are close to a correctly setup EBC. Some of the others listed here have been very badly setup. To solve your boost falloff you can try increasing the GAIN. You may need to reduce the SET a little to keep boost at the same level. This should stop boost from tailing off and may improve the speed it builds boost. You will be able to get it to peak and hold your desired boost setting with small changes. I would also raise your SET GAIN (Start boost) to 110.

Yep, LHD Loom is fine you just have excess cable to hide under the battery tray.

Every car will differ, you cant rely on another settings. You can get close, but you can just as easily over boost and do damage with somebody else's settings ! Far better to set it up yourself. Its simple to do and will mean you have a better understanding of how to use it : Some instructions I wrote a while back : ------------------------------------------------------------------ SET = The desired boost setting (as a percentage 0-100% (OFF to MAX Boost available). GAIN = Boost response/consistency. Too low will mean its slow to boost and boost may fall of at higher rpm and too high will cause spiking. SET GAIN = Is the lowest pressure that the EBC will wait for before building boost. You want this to be around 3psi less than the boost setting your after. WARNING = the Max boost you do not want to exceed. LIMITER = the the percentage boost that the EBC will limit boost to if the Warning is exceeded. Should be about 5% less than the SET number. First change it from Kpa to PSI according to instructions. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi * Put the SET Boost on around 30% , and leave the GAIN at 0 Put the SET GAIN on 3psi less than your desired setting (so i you want 14.0 psi then put it on 11.0 psi). * Take it up the road and in 3rd gear see what boost your getting. Increase the SET Boost by around 5% till you get the desired boost. Then you want to increase the GAIN, start at 5 and go up in 5's. You want to find the point where it starts to spike and then turn it down a little. You should'nt need to go over 20. You may have to reduce the SET a little as you increase the GAIN, just keep an eye on what is happening. Once your getting the correct boost with no spiking you can put LIMITER on around 5% less than what you have set the SET to *Note on the profec B Spec II the display in PSI reads as if the decimal place is missing. So for the Boost display as well as the SET GAIN and the WARNING settings 120 is 12.0 psi , 145 is 14.5 psi ...etc

Z1 or CZP

Thats where my money would go..... or the lambo.