WillyEd

So... did anyone ACTUALLY end up in the river this year??? :)

Hi Kirbz, My mate bought one of the Jabra behind-the-ear style ones for his 6600 and it works a treat. When he's driving and using it to speak to me, it sounds like he's just talking straight into the phone itself! Regards Simon.

Hi Rossy, the adjustment on the SQVs is to adjust how much vacuum pressure is required to pull the value open, i.e how responsive they are once you close the throttle. Your boost level is still set by the actuators fitted to the turbos. One way to increase boost will be to adjust / change your actuators or use a boost controller (or boost jets) hope this helps m8 Simon.

Hi David, I was wondering if this could be you, I hope the aircon is still 100%! I don't live in Martlesham anymore, I live with Katy and our little 2 weeks old baby boy Harvey, quite close to the town centre. The car is in much better condition than when you saw it last, its had a full respray and body kit fit, so looks much better. Like AndyP said, could be PTU. I have a spare working one which you could try. Failing that I'd reckon on injector connectors. If you do a search, you find these have come up several times in the past - all with the same complaint - lots of green corrosion on the pins. Regards Simon.

Hows the car then Chris? How many horses are running under the bonnet? Si.

It doesn't help when most of the link-text is an image

Its not perfect but... http://world.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl_pagecontent?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.central20.co.jp%2F&lp=ja_en

Hi David, I don't need the use of Conzult right now, but *might* be able to help with whatever problem you're experiencing. Whereabout in Ipswich are you? Simon.

Beat this then: "so er.... whats that got under the hood then, a 2 litre engine?" LOL - idiot :xxx:

LOL - I know - *hangs head in shame* They're coming soon ...

Fav so far... Only problem is, got bird poo on the side, and I'm minus the front arch liners at present.

If you have a compressor with an adjustable regulator and a boost gauge, you can set them accurately yourself. Set the regulator to about 1 bar, and using an air blower into the end of short piece of rubber tube with a T-piece into the boost gauge. Slowly apply air pressure and feel the actuator push-rod and keep a note of what pressure is required to move the rod. HTH Simon.

Stu, you must have been on the computer all day today! Xeon lol :) You mean Xenon. Si.

Tattooman, Fastredz is talking about the actuators on the actual turbos that open the wastegate, not bleed valves. Remember also, that bleed valves are providing the same control over the boost as a mig tip. Kind of like having a mig tip with an adjustable aperture hole. Fastredz, if they're adjustable, TT might have only set them to 10psi to begin with, its up to you to wind-in the actuator arm to raise the opening pressure. If in any doubt, give Giles a call @ TT and he'll be more than helpful. Simon.

Mr Mincey, Assuming your 89 model is a Z32 then the bolts can be reached, but there is a bit of an art to it: (This is my procedure for my UK manual): 1. Loosen the four rubber boost pipes at the front top of the engine 2. Unbolt shifter from underneath (just the one long bolt) 3. Use a jack to support the gearbox 3. Unbolt rear mount from gearbox 4. Lower the jack until the gearbox is several inches lower than it was (I'm able to remove the jack all together without squashing anything at the rear of the engine) 5. Using 2 long extension bars (each one of mine is about over 18" long) and a universal joint you'll now be able to reach both of the two top bolts 6. now get your jack back underneath (preferably a scissor tranny jack), and support the weight of the box while you unbolt the rest. Hope this helps m8 Simon.

So not bitter then :)

My manual rebuild cost £840 two years ago. This included a new reverse gear, a full set of synchros and a coule of bearings. Only thing is, my main shaft is worn rather a lot, with causes quite a rumble in the car at 2,000rpm - this couldn't be fixed because I have a 91 box which has a different shaft to the 94+ onwards which has slightly stronger internals. Problem is, Nissan can ONLY provide the 94+ shaft not the old one. Nissans answer to this is to replace all the rest of the internals - which my main dealer priced up at about £800ish IIRC Hope this helps Si.

These are the real 99 spec rear lights - NOT the centre panel though! The one you see there is in really bad condition - I'm still waiting for the new panel to turn up. (Chris @ GetReddy - you never got back to me mate - so had to order them from elsewhere. Mirrors are the dogs though - let me know if you'd like to see them all sprayed up and on the car) What do you think?

In a nutshell!

I think its 'Massive Multiplayer Online Game' - but I'm no expert in this field - I leave that to all the beardy fat blokes at work :) Simon.

Are you saying that although Japan can't sell a car with >280ps they can't MAKE it?? The UK for example has laws stopping the selling of penetrative porn, but lots is made here, same for hand / machine guns can't sell em, but they're still made here. Besides, what about the Mitsi evo xx with 400+ horses? 2p Simon.

Who on earth told you the sound proofing / heat shield was made from asbestos??? The sticker under the hood is a warning about the asbestos in the original brake pads and the CATS (there's wrap around the catalyst in the earlier models which stops it from rattling) The Z has no other asbestos in it - not in the pads, the clutch, and certainly not in the heat shield which dangles above your head everytime you open the bonnet!!! However, if you still have any original brake pads then they may contain some, but since 1999 there's been a total ban on any asbestos in anything in the EU Regards Simon.

The water shouldn't be an issue - just make sure there's no air locks. Raising the front of the car a tad will help out lots here. Oil will take a moment to pull up the feed tube - so make sure you remove the spark plugs and fuel relay until you see oil pressure. Better still remove the drain pipes on both turbos, and keep cranking until fresh oil drains from both. THEN, and only then, fire the ol girl up for real. Power steering fluid is absolutely no problem, just top up, turn the wheels from full-lock to full-lock, and check your fluid level again, topping up if required. For what its worth, I've followed the above and never had a problem with any engine on any car I've owned. Keep us posted with your progress, and get ready for the lovely smell of 'new' engine when your engine gets up to temperature for the first time - sounds weird, but is quite nice really! Simon.

Blimey - I must be missing something about my oil cooler - perhaps I need to put it on the bonnet for maximum street credability? ...lol, and those trucks with more lights than Blackpool illuminations! :)