vodkashots

yep lol, i posted mine then read yours and though, it must stick out like a sore thumb :lol:

I almost thought that was pablitos car then

im no where near it, but if he is willing to lie about the supposed "body kit", the "well looked after" comment as well (there are interior panels missing from the boot) the spoiler has been replaced yet not sprayed. id be inclinded to say that this will give you a headache as he hasnt been very honest right from the out set. Although the seats have been re trimmed, the job isn't very good, the stereo is kind of thrown in as a after thought and just shouts that its been more a chav mobile than actually cared for. No engine bay picture, im failing to see how this is a show car?, and that number plate is no where in the £1000 price bracket. more like 275 to 300. Sorry if its anyone's on here, but should be a bit more careful with the wording and price things accordingly and not try to come across as a complete over exaggerating nitwit.

rear don't get as much use, or the fact that you do the fronts first, hence the algae in the bottle gets agitated around, so when you do the rears they don't clog.

The fan still needs to suck air in through the radiator, where else is it going to come from? and no i do not think my FMIC is block flow on idle, but the A/C rad is seriously effecting cool air getting to the radiator on idle. Instead of saying "you do have engine / cooling issues" like ive already said, point me in the correct direction then, block test stays blue, the liquid isnt even 6 months old, all coolant hoses have been replaced, the water pump has been replaced (new), the thermostat has been replaced (new), the rad cap has been replaced (new), none of the water pipes are old any more, im not losing water, coolant has been replaced. The only 2 things not changed on my coolant system, is the heater matrix, and my main radiator. that is it. so either the rad is fecked, hence lack of cooling efficiency, or the A/C rad is having an effect of getting air pulled through it.

well, unless it shows at the bottom of the forum main page, we don't know, so could be your age related settings.

Would have to disagree respectfully on the over heating on idle issue being other things. The only thing left on my system to change is the rad and getting rid of that A/C radiator, my temps still creep on idle, not very fast, but enough to be concerned about, i have renewed all my coolant pipes, including the matrix pipes, both front radiator pipes, the lower rad pipe, the 2 x water by pass pipes for the turbos, small pipe between the heater matrix core feeds, replaced the water pump, even got rid of a over heating gearbox, block tested the engine 5 times and still it stays blue instead of going green then yellow, ended up flushing the engine 3 times, cleaned out the rad a few times, replaced my fan clutch, thermostat and rad cap. yet it still creeps on idle. Considering that is pretty much the total of what the cooling system is, unless ive missed something, the only thing that is left, is lack of air flow through to the radiator on idle, soon as i start moving, its fine again and the temps drop. its had 4 coolant changes even going to a 50/50 mix of coolant / demineralised water. and the temp still creeps. - - - Updated - - - yep, lol still temped to go for a drive in about 10 mins see if your car is out haha

First i never said your communication was bad, i said the seller admitted that HIS communication was bad. He still sent the parts out, even after all that has gone on, so he has in effect kept to his end of the deal, he sent the parts to the address supplied. I'm sure if i supplied a address, then realised that it was wrong, i would be very quick to notify the seller that the address has indeed changed, as it can cause all mannor of problems.

from what i can see, the seller has still communicated with you, even if its a bit late, he was trying to confirm the address, you asked for a refund, he had sent the parts to the original address supplied, you cant get the parts from the original address, but you failed to confirm the address when he asked, you could of supplied a more suitable address for the parts to be sent too, when he asked for you to confirm the address? It looks like its half a dozen of one, half a dozen of the other, mixed in with communication issues because the seller was busy and you were out the country. Its OK blaming a seller but a buyer can also be at fault to contribute to the issues. lack of confirmation on a delivery address for one. Im just saying it how i see it from what you originally put. You both have made mistakes in this situation that have made things escalate into the current situation. He has sent the parts out to the address you first specified, if that is not suitable, then you should of made him aware of it when he was trying to confirm the address. He could of got the parts out when he said, but for unknown reasons didn't. could be genuine reasons. He offered a refund of the parts - delivery, which is actually amicable so he did try to resolve the issue with you, and he even accepted responsibility for lack of communication.

up queensway matey, your in wellingborough now? grab me number give me a bell

ill get a photo for you tomorrow lol, ive got mine T in with 2 one way valves, one feeding the break servo, the other the clutch servo, works fine.

man id love that diablo, even in that condition, replica or not lol

You would need to take that up with the committee, but why would anyone pay £20 just for a music thread? you know if you sign up to YouTube, you can create your own play lists?

no, deleted means its gone.

is there a reason you are spamming this thread with music videos? you asked a question as to where the original went lol

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Cooling+System try that matey, helped me a bit, not the best but might help you pin point it, considering the part is so cheap and its relatively easy to do, might be a good idea to start at the thermostat.

well, if he doesnt have one im sure i have a spare one way valve in the garage.

Id rather lose the HP than risk the Over heating, i know some people take it off, but after what I've had with cooling problems, i prefer it there as peace of mind.

im not sure on the clutch pedal, as i didnt have to touch mine, but just T into the break vacuum, it works wonders and the clutch isnt as heavy.

you are not the only one matey, id love it even if it is a replica. what a project though, would love to get that back on the road, but something just seems dodgy about coming across a place with cars like that, left to rot. stolen??

If its a fully rebuilt engine, could be an air pocket locked in there, but id seriously get a block tester kit as well, something is causing your engine to get too hot. And although its questionable about the nismo thermostats, my own personal experience is to stick with OEM. The thermostat keeps the water in the engine system to help speed up the heating processes of the water, it only opens to allow the water to flow through the radiator when its up to temp. When it over heats next time, have a look at your lower rad hose as it comes across the front cross member of the car, to see if its collapsing or not. Id be very careful with driving it around though, 115 is overheating and could cause damage to the HG, new build or not.

yep me lol because it goes like this front bumper>FMIC>Air Filter>Oil cooler>A/C fan>A/C rad>radiator thats a hell of a lot to get the air past before it gets to the main engine rad, and i have my viscous / no engine tray / and full fan shroud and the engine temps still creep on idle Though mine is mostly when idling and not when driving. need to get a uprated rad and then remove my A/C rad when i change it over, im keeping my viscous though.

Id first start by getting a block tester, test the radiator for any exhaust gasses getting into the system, 115 is very hot, nissian class the 300zx as over heating when the temp reaches 110c, 90 degrees is what i consider getting too hot. my car sits at 82, unless on a hot day and stuck in traffic or idling, then the temp can creep to 94, but goes back down once moving / putting the interior fan on to 35 or 40, if the A/C fan is cutting in then the temp is definitely too hot and there is something that is over coming the cooling system. Start with a block test kit and make sure you haven't damaged the head gasket. if that is all good, id empty the coolant, also empty the block, then do a engine flush to get all the crap out, and a radiator flush to clean the inside of that as well, id change the thermostat for a new OEM one, and also change the rad cap back to a OEM one. and while you are there, change both temp sensors on the top water pipe, as they may be giving false readings, then top up with fresh coolant. few questions though 1. Can you touch the plenum when it reaches that temp or is it too hot? 2. also what fan set up do you have? 3. do you have the viscous still? 4. what fan is kicking in? the A/C fan? or one that came with the radiator. The cooling system on the z32 is relatively simple, but can be effected by simple cheap things like the thermostat, blockage at the front of the radiator, the wrong radiator cap, air leaking into the system from old pipes. link to block tester http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-CYLINDER-HEAD-COMBUSTION-LEAK-BLOCK-TESTER-/261040078207?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cc7337d7f