vodkashots

He quoted for all 3 lights to be replaced not just the off side one 260 is what they cost at zcentre for all 3 as all rear lights are cracked

best strip all me good stuff out and replace for OEM then well, i dont mind how they fix it, but would be nice for it to be fixed to how it was before it happened. going to see what his insurance say, how do i go about this anyway? do i inform my insurance or his or both?

well to be honest cant really say what speed he hit me, i was slowing down from 20 and was almost at a stand still, was loud though, but there wasn't any sound of brakes or juddering or anything really, he just hit me, i even had me roof off so if he had slammed his anchors on, i would of heard it.

the panels are not just filler, the rear of the car needs pulling out straight as its basically crushing the exhaust, and no offence, id want it done properly not a bodge job. add on that the rear arch is pinched outwards, its a fair bit more than filler needed on that.

would be pointless unless i change the wings and front bumper and side skirts at the same time, as thats what will eventually happen anyway.

well even if they do, thats one out of the way, there is another body shop over northampton or even one in kettering i can take it to.

well just rang him, going to do it through insurance, which is going to be the best option.

well im new too all this, never had to make a claim against someone else so, going to give the guy a ring in a moment and advice him about the costs, he said he would rather it didn't go through insurance due to his premium, but then he should of been paying more attention to the road. my only concern would be, if he does want to pay for it, and there is more hidden under the bumper, although the body shop and it bumps the price over what he can afford. i suppose they could right it off, as i do indeed have a buy back clause on my insurance.

think thats classed as a wright off in insurance terms :(

was just about to head out to a body shop and get them to have a look over it and estimate the costs of repair, it would give me a better idea as to let the insurance company deal with it. im pretty sure i have a buy back clause in my policy.

Seen you today as i was waiting to come out of the junction., you where heading towards the A14 on the A45 when i came off 1 car behind you. was around 5:30pm

fuel tank strap looks to of come away from the fuel tank as well. that wasnt like that when i put the exhaust back on after doing the gearbox change.. from what i can see behind the bumper. where its cracked the wheel arch, its actually pinched it outwards, i tried to get a photo but the bloody camera was having a eppi about focusing on it.

you gotta remember, there is something pressed up against it, so you are basically squashing it directly to the body work. trust me its bent the frigging car.

going to run down and get better photos, though it is dark, but have a decent flash on the old DSLR. Just dreading what damage is going to be under the bumper

dunno, as the bumper is no longer bonded to the rear of the car, ill be taking it off tomorrow to get a better assessment of the damage behind it. the rear has defiantly moved further forward towards the front though. according to him, he looked down for a split second then when he looked up, he hit me. basically used my car as a bumper car to stop his from moving from 20mph to 0.

i really need to get better photos of all the damage, i just did those so i could snap his fecking number plate as well. might go get some with my DLSR now im back home. to answer the tail gate question. when you release it, it no longer makes a "snap" sound (not really sure what to call it, but im sure you know, it just does a tiny little pop now, and when you close it, it sounds like its hitting metal first and not getting the catch.

it needs more than that mate, wait till i get the photos tomorrow, its pushed one side of the rear end closer to the front. the dent i did have the passenger side has now gone, but its been replaced by 3 stress dents on the drivers side. thats just damage to the bumper, the damage to the actual car is a lot worse. its pushed the rear end in, that the passenger side of the bumper has come away from the body, and the exhaust mountings now scrape on the damn bar behind the bumper.

Well after doing my pin 44 thing, and also sorting out my audio (seemed to have lack of base for some reason) decided to take my little boy for a driver and also test what effect doing wiring in the neutral switch was going to have. Anyway, driving through down earlier, quite congested, couldn't do more than 20, had this black ford following me, anyway, was slowing down, with my indicator on to turn right, when next thing i know, i got shunted from the rear. Although i had rust bubbles there wasnt any cracks in it like that. There is more damage but these were the ones i noticed right away and took photos of. The damage to his car was minimal mine now most likely needs to be put on a jig, ill get better pictures in the morning. think ill take it to a body shop first and get a quote for the cost to repair, then most likely go through the insurance on this one. thats 2 times in a matter of 3 weeks someone has hit the back end of my car, and 3 times since ive owned it :( twice when it was sat still, and now this time when i was coming to a stop from 20mph. Might be time i threw the towel in depending what the insurance say. There is more body work buckling under the bumper, as i had a look, and the boot doesnt close properly now either, it makes a distinct metal hitting metal noise.

i have no idea now matey, must of got the connector colour mixed up bud, it was defo the one for the idle control as the engine revs changed dramatically for a bit. You understand why my memory is a bit fussy in a moment with a post im about to put up.

Right this is what id did. First jack the car up, while the engine was cold. Undone the flap covering the ECU, unbolted the ECU from the car and remove the loom plug, found PIN 44 (Yellow cable with Thin blue stripe), followed it back as far from the ECU as i could to get a bit of length, and cut the wire. From under the car, i untangled the Neutral switch cable, and joined it to some wire to extend it into the cabin, i poked a small hole in the dust boot and cable tied the extended cable to a secure location on the gearstick support so it wouldn't fowl on anything, i then poked it through the dust boot, (makes a nice seal around the cable) and fed that through and under the carpet to the ECU. With one of the extended wires, i joined it to the PIN 44 cable that goes TO the ECU, using a connector, i then put the loom back onto the ECU and tightened it down, checking to see if both edges of the loom were plugged in correctly, i then mounted the ECU back onto the car, trapping the other end of the extended cable under the ECU cage, against the body work of the car, using a O connector, i then lowered the car. I then started the car, and turned the PC on, and started up consults. Consults was saying "31" degrees out, i waited for the car to come up to temp (for mine 82degrees), i then took the timing light, and connected the positive to the battery, neg to the engine, and read the timing, the timing on the crank pulley was saying around 10, i turned the engine off, undid the CAS, moved it to the middle most point on the bolts, and started the engine, i checked consults again, it was saying 13 degrees, i checked the crank pulley, it was saying 13ish (no mark for 13 lol) so i tapped the CAS so with the timing light it was showing 15. i checked consults it was showing 15. I turned the engine off, tightened up the bolts to the CAS, i then started the engine, checked consults it was again showing 15, i checked then crank pulley, it was still showing 15. I then took my multi metre, and earthed the Neg to the engine, positive to the middle connector wire, and checked the TPS, i set this to .45 i then unplug the gray connector at the back of the Idle control valve, and left it for 10 mins with the engine running, i then (running backwards and forwards) adjusted the idle, to sit roughly 750rpm. then plugged the gray connector back in. Job done. The only noticeable difference is. When i put the car in gear, the timing goes to 25, and the revs raise. it now doesnt seem like it wants to shut off when i put the clutch in. other than that. it runs fine.

Done, extended both wires to the ecu, plumbed one directly to Pin 44 wire joined not spliced, then earthed the other on the chassis, started the car, lol 35 degree's, waited for it to come up to temp, and then set it to 15btdc, now when i stick it in gear, it goes to 25, and when in neutral it goes back to 15, checked on consults as well as with timing light. But think i have positive crank case pressure as my dip stick was poking out, and i know i pushed that back in, though does feel wobbly in the dipstick tube. :(

right, need to know how to wire this in, got 2 black wires coming off the neutral on the gearbox, do i extend one wire to pin 44 on the ecu, and just earth the other?

matey it didnt need much doing to it. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?134326-My-2-quid-car

hmm wonder where that wire ends up lol, take it its one of those now redundent connectors near the hicas. anyway, need to get the car in the air, still need to sort my exhaust out since its been knocked about by the bloody speed humps around here.