vodkashots

ring me bud

Woot, one more year on the old notch. congrats dude.

I dont care what they say, it was his fault, they can fix my car to what it was before the accident, if they dont want to do that, ill ask them to write it off if they are not willing to repair it to how it was before the accident. (though might not get anywhere with that one, but if they refuse, ill get a solicitor involved and i know how much they hate that) agreed, though if you do not declare the mods, they will say you are not covered lol, two edged sword, its also for valuation purposes.

one of those things mate, was coming down a road with a right turn onto a one way system, looked in my rear view, was nothing there, had to stop for traffic in front of me, was indicating to turn right, was sat for about 2 to 3 seconds while waiting for a van coming the other way, next thing you know, i was shunted about 1 meter forward even though i had my foot on the break. Little boy in the back in his car seat didn't even cry, but the noise was amazingly loud. looked in my rear mirror and had some young lad in his ford looking shocked as hell. according to him, he looked down for a split second, looked up and hit me, i don't even think he managed to break, i didn't hear it if he did and i had the roof off the car. i know i say its a 20mph impact, but thats just guessing, may be more than that. but didn't do bugger all damage to his car, it pushed his grill in a bit where his ford badge is, and cracked his front number plate. thats all that was visible. I will say one thing though, if you are ever in the same situation, make sure you get photos of damage of both cars while at the scene and make sure your photos manage to get their number plate, if its safe to do so, dont move the cars first get photos of how the cars came to rest (Only if its safe to do so). my insurance thanked me loads for that as they had a clear record of the damage to his car so he couldnt add anything on to it.

someone running on the metal of the pads? how did they not notice sooner, though saying that, i had a friend on face book (female) said her car failed the mot due to no rear break pads, as in there were no pads left, she said although she had a noise at the rear, she just turned the stereo up to hide it :blink:

Bit of an update, had the rear interior panels off today, as had to get the car up to the bodyshop, due to insurance wanting them to take the photos and supply them. boot area has taken a fair whack, the biggest issue is going to be the colour match, as no one knows for sure what colour it is. i think thats going to be the deciding factor in what the costs are going to come out at, the body shop also said they would be phoning nissan for quotes on the rear light cluster as they are 99spec and not the UK spec orange len's (not sure what Nissan's prices are on genuine units), or the cost of a new rear impact bar. but you can tell the rear has shifted as the fuel filler area has moved away from the outer body work (if that makes sense) Also not sure but i think the insurance are going to want to fit a OEM rear bumper? well thats the idea i got when speaking to the body shop, which is going to be a bit of a shitter as id declared it had a after market body kit on it, if they offer a OEM one, im going to argue my case that if they want the car repaired, then i want it more or less how it was before the accident as it wasn't my fault and ill be at a loss then.

rear end shunt on friday last week. check in the Zed related section for the post.

can you send me some pictures please matey? i should hear from insurance in the next 3 days as to whats happening with my motor. edit that, should know by monday / tuesday, forgot the weekend is looming lol

IIRC from what Jimmer told me in PM's, his rebuilds always have cometic headgasket, eagle conrods, wiseco pistons, heads skimmed, think he said 2.5k for engine delivered on a pallet, 3.5k for car arriving and him having to remove the engine. though as i said, give or take a few hundred. would be best with car their so he can do testing after though. But i guarantee, you will not be disappointed with his work. that man is top notch

any of them blue ones forsale? might be looking to replace mine soon :(

if its a jimmer rebuild, then most likely looking between 2k to 3k give or take a few hundred.

I had the same issue, the inverter eventually gave out as well and almost set my car alight, if the switch isnt secured, the wires tend to wiggle, you can resold the connections if you are good enough and have a small enough solder tip, or just do what i did and buy a new inverter and brightness adjuster from http://www.visual-performance.co.uk/#/fitting-guide/4534196012 for some reason they put the replacement inverter add on the fitting guide page of the website lol

have you tried the fuse for it? sounds simple but always best to check the fuse, also have you tried the clock fuse, ive read about that as well can effect it.

Not sure if this applys to UK / jap cars but got this from tt.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Because both the search results and the FSM instructions on how to do this aren't exactly clear, here's something that I hope is easier to understand. If your airbag light flashes after 7 secs, then you need to run the airbag diagnostic codes, if your airbag light does not shut off after 7 secs then the airbag ECM needs to be replaced. To run the codes you must enter the first diagnostic mode, from there you can read the number of light flashed to see what the problem is. The second diagnostic mode is meant to show what codes have been cleared, and is not useful for diagnosing problem. There are 3 modes for the airbag ECM diagnostic unit: User (Normal) Present (Diagnostic Mode 1) Initial (Diagnostic Mode 2) User (Normal): This is the mode your car is in when it is not in diagnostic mode, it needs to be left in this mode for proper use of the SRS system, be sure to return the ECM to this mode after completing diagnostics. Present (Diagnostic Mode 1): This mode will display the codes causing the error in the SRS system, the number of short flashes of the airbag light corresponds to the error code. Initial (Diagnostic Mode 2): This mode is only useful to see what codes have been cleared, it will also show what code is causing the problem. Most people, if ever, will only need to enter mode 1, follow the instructions below, simply ignoring the mode 2 instructions. To enter Diagnostic Mode 1 you will need to activate the drivers side door switch(located in the door jamb near the latch striker) at least 5 times within 7 seconds after the ignition is turn to on. To enter Diagnostic Mode 2 you will need to turn the key off then back to on, then activate the drivers side door switch once AFTER the ignition has been turned on for 7 secs. To exit Diagnostic Mode 2 you will need to turn the key off then back to on, then activate the drivers side door switch once AFTER the ignition has been turned on for 7 secs. To exit Diagnostic Mode 1 you will need to turn the key off then back to on, then activate the drivers side door switch(located in the door jamb near the latch striker) at least 5 times within 7 seconds after the ignition is turn to on. Now for a visual adaptation from the FSM Before switching between the modes shown above remember to turn the key off then on, otherwise the system cannot accept the door switch inputs. After switching to mode 1 the "Airbag" light will flash once long, indicating the code series is about to start, the following number of short flashes is the number of the code causing the error in the SRS system. If the airbag light flashes on for 2 secs and off for 3 secs then that indicates no problem, or an intermittent problem. 1- Safing Sensor circuit is out of order. 2- Driver's air bag module circuit is out of order. 3- Tunnel sensor circuit is out of order. 4- Right crash zone sensor circuit is out of order. 5- Left crash zone sensor circuit is out of order. 6- Center crash zone sensor circuit is out of order. 7- Diagnosis unit is out of order. 8- Front Passenger air bag module circuit is out of order. 9- More than 2 parts of the SRS system are out of order. Chances are if you have a code that its something simple, the most common thing is the spiral cable in the steering column. I had the center and left crash sensors plugged in incorrectly(switched) and I got a code 6.

Z32bolt Read your PM bud

Jeff and his for sale threads ay :lol:

im in Weightlifting sweet lol

now your just showing off.

Sorted the image editing out for you matey. need bigger pictures, try using photobucket. just remember to use the tag when selecting it from the list for forums,

Got to remember though, that estimate was for just the repair, and not the respray to get it back to the correct colour. Anything over 60% of the vehicle value and it will be deemed a write off (according to my insurance) SO £2100 for a respray, as its a custom colour the match will never be perfect as don't actually know what the bloody colour is (think thats average price) £2616 for repairs = £4716 value = £6000 thats more than 60% of the total value = write off.

According to the lady on the phone, my vehicle is valued at £6000, so might not be a write off. they are arranging for one of their engineers to come and have a ganders to estimate the damage and value the vehicle.

:lol:

i think it might take them a bit longer due to not being familiar with the zed, i think they might struggle on 2 area's, getting the clutch pedal in and the electrics side of things.

its been in the FAQ area of the forum for sometime, but always good to see it posted for the new people who dont usually check there lol

an e46 convertible would do me, or even a series 6 convertible