Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

vodkashots

Standard Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Country

    United Kingdom

Everything posted by vodkashots

  1. and sprayed in nissan cherry red as well, top colour :) :lol:
  2. things to change or put on flywheel if no turbos, turbos (doesnt matter if they are manual or auto turbos, just one spools faster than the other) Pilot bushing thats it.
  3. yeah but you cheat, you have a 4 poster and most likely a trans jack so the engine doesnt lean back :lol: either that or you have been sending zeds out the door with poped intercooler pipes.:lol: (i know you wouldn't)
  4. that so needs slamming on 18 inch BBM's, but thats just me lol
  5. tbh mate, ive had more success with silicone as a sealer than i have with the actual gaskets
  6. You do if you have the hard pipes bud, other wise it just pulls them off the pipes anyway :lol:
  7. So jim what kind of deal would you do me for the BMW touring
  8. would need to break mine first, but with the parts on it they would shift pretty quick
  9. Wouldnt say that, still in 2 minds, been like it for a while now, might break it and get boldys that way i dont have to feck about.
  10. i wouldnt go N/A Thing is once the welding is done, and the subframe bushes, plus get the steering sorted out, all the rest are just small niggly bits. its a tough call. im also still waiting on a move, if i had a drive to put it on, id do that and take it off the road, get a cheap run around while i saved to get the zed sorted out all in one go. The biggest problem is im using it as a daily when it does need repairs that are going to mean it needs a respray. Ok today was a bit of a stupid situation with a rubber pipe that had worked its way off the plastic air ducting and infront of the clutch pedal stopping it going into gear. feck knows. given about 6 months it should be where i want it. but 6 months just seems quite far away when i have a house move looming as well.
  11. get rid and get another one though..... head is saying stick with it and preserver. if i had the room to break it, i would and then id buy boldys
  12. i didnt even get a rain drop here, been muggy and hot all day and in the noon the sun came out to play
  13. Just have to undo one of the clips bud, let the engine pull it off once the clip is undone then when the engine goes back, plug um back in and do that one clip up, saves having to fiddle about getting it on both ends lol
  14. bud ill pm you my number, if you get stuck at any point give me a ring.
  15. linda was saying it was raining when i rang the second time, i could hear it in the back ground and she wasnt even in the work shop.
  16. easy if you are changing gearbox for gearbox, and that its the correct box for your car (TT to TT or NA to NA) Basically, Battery disconnected car in the air (Axel stands on all the 4 correct areas) exhaust off, undo heat shield and tunnel brace 4 bolts on center prop, mark it with tippex across both sections to ease joining it back up later so you don't get vibration 2 bolts on center bearing and remove the front prop shaft Undo the drain plug on bottom of the gearbox and drain oil into a suitable container Support gearbox using trolley jack 6 bolts holding the read of the gearbox to the car, undo the gear stick linkage (1 bolt and a nut) Unplug, disconnect the starter motor and remove out the way 2 bolts and remove the slave cylinder and move it out the way then lower the gearbox at the back to make the engine tilt, start undoing the bolts holding it to the engine, once all bolts are undone (don't forget where the neg lead bolts to the gearbox) Prise the gearbox away from the engine and lower on the trolley jack, then get under it and help it off the jack, should have enough room to pull the old gearbox out from under the car. Fitting is a reversal Handy tip, use the front of the prop shaft the plug the rear of the gear box to stop oil coming out.
  17. You wouldn't believe the shit I've had to deal with in the last 4 years, including loosing a best friend, and my very close grandad, ive been off the forum a few times while needing to send parts out, even had someone stick a one sided point across on a thread for you on another forum i do not frequent that actually questions why im still a mod here, yet ive always managed to contact people, or contact someone on the forum to contact people, given my number and email to those i still needed to get parts out too. In this day and age, there is no excuse for not talking to people no matter how bad your situation is. even if its just to tell that person you are having personal issues, when someone just disappears with parts owing with no communication, what on earth do you expect to happen? Communication is paramount when you have someones cash and they have no part. i have never failed to communicate with the person im dealing with in a trade, regardless of how long its taken me to get the part to them, or what situation ive had to deal with.
  18. Yes bud, it drys quick as well, but all its for is sealing 2 bits together with no air leaks, same as what one of the gaskets does anyway. its also better than exhaust paste as it doesnt crumble My current exhaust is sealed with it, though its slot into each other. but ive used it on many an exhaust, didn't even think about using it until i saw them doing it down national tyres where my friend works, i questioned him about it, and he said they stopped with the other gaskets and use only silicone sealant now, which i was surprised at, but its very effective thats for sure. just wipe any excess off once they are bolted together and enjoy leak free driving with no sooty marks from the joins.
  19. kinda deserved as ive never taken me zed to zedworld for a check over :lol: but never thought about checking the clutch pedal for obstruction from the front, it was only because i was checking to see if i could adjust it that i found out my problem
  20. i wouldnt own a N/A now, not after having a TT, love them too much. priced the parts up and its coming in at 4k priced to sell, not priced how much they are worth. repairs are coming in at around 2.6k with a big jim respray give or take a few quid. I love the car but it hates me i think, im just getting sick of throwing LARGE sums of cash at it and not really noticing a difference in reliability if that makes sense, it still needs a bit of work doing on it, basically this is what needs doing still reverse light and fog light moving around in the rear panel to get the fog on the correct side. side skirts need removing and welding sorted out on the sills. rear drivers arch needs replacing as its starting to rust bubble dent removed from above the passenger side rear wheel arch front clunk needs finding and sorting out notchy steering needs fault finding and sorting out front wings need to be changed for OEM wings Front bumper needs to come off and be replace new large flow rad, AC rad removed to get more air flow and aid cooling Rear subframe needs removing and subframe bushes need renewing Need to get that relay for the intermittent wipers front top water pipe needs replacing, sensors on top need replacing New O2 sensors, New DET sensor and harness (its been by passed but would rather have it connected and working correctly) Full respray in a colour i know about rear bumper needs repairing due to a split after being reversed into Wing Mirror loom needs replacing rear tyres need replacing sooner rather than later as they are getting close to the legal limit rust bubble under the rear passenger side light cluster needs sorting out rust bubble on A pillar needs sorting out Prop shaft needs either turning, or the bearing needs changing as im getting vibration above 30mph since going manual noticed today that there is a split in the body work inside the front drivers side wheel arch that will most likely need welding as well I know a lot of that sounds minimal (and most of that will most likely get fixed when i get around too it) major jobs are highlighted in red due to MOT. even now, i was at the car with steams and really not sure, think the real issue is I've done so much work to it and it will feel like a waisted effort, i really wish i had the space and second car, to be able to take it off the road so i can get it sorted out. rather than having to rely on it while i have on going issues with it that need fixing to a time limit (next MOT in September)
  21. Found the issue, small rubber hose attached to the heater piPe work that goes under the steering column had worked its self up to the front of the clutch pedal stopping it having full travel back to its resting place, all gears are back now thank god
  22. bud it was working fine from the moment it was put back together, untill yesterday when i pulled out of my friends drive, and it was struggling to go into gear, now this morning, it wont budge into any gear even with a great deal of force, if the pedal needed adjusting, id of know about that not long after the gearbox was fitted, the clutch slave piston is moving and the clutch fork is moving as well, so there is defiantly fluid and no air in there, its moving about 1 inch or so. its just not engaging the syncro's enough to get it to shift into gear. Either the clutch fork has bent, the clutch release bearing is fubar, or the gear box has gone on all gears (very unlikely as id loose a few not all)
  23. well after a new engine, 2 gearboxes (one auto, now a manual) the car still needs the drivers side rear sill repairing, it needs a respray as the side skirts need to come off and the wings get changed it will need one, it needs a rear subframe bush replacing so may as well do all of them. the gear box has decided to stop going into gear, a front end clunk, lumpy steering and a few other niggly issues, im actually really getting fed up with the damn thing now. Yes i know its a 20 year old car, but im constantly fighting it, its not like its regular maintenance im dealing with, its major issues that are getting sorted out, and then fecking up, and i hardly see a £550 engine and £500 auto to manual gearbox change as "skimping" on getting the damn thing sorted out, its getting annoying with the car constantly coming off the road to get fixed, in all the cars ive own, and all the zeds ive owned, this has to be the worst one for going wrong on a major scale. I dont really have the room to break it, but will if i have too. id rather it went as a whole though. i know what its worth in parts, i know what it will take to get fixed, i just cant be bothered with doing it now. its just eating in to cash id rather be doing other stuff with, like sticking in a more reliable car as fuel for instance. My heart is saying dont, but my head is saying get rid. really dont know what to do any more, i love the look of it, i love how it drives now when it was working fine. im just not too keen on throwing any more cash at it now as its getting to the point im for ever fixing stupid issues that stop the whole thing from working.
  24. RPS street max clutch

Important Information

Terms of Use

Account

Navigation

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.