vodkashots

There is nothing there that screams at me "i should sell this and get a better one", think of it as a canvas, most of what you posted is purely cosmetics that can be fixed, PCV valves are not that bad to change and are accessible. clutch isn't that bad to change either. Tbh mate, id keep it if give it a new lease of life. these cars are almost classic sports cars and with being a classic, comes some restoration. you already said that you were wanting to fix a different spoiler. and then get it resprayed, that would give it a new lease of life already. Seriously, read my journal for a car that needed a hell of a lot more work than yours. and i still wanted to get her back on the road. these cars are a labour of love. it just depends how far your willing to go to put the car back to how she should be. Trust me, yours really isnt that bad. if i was in your shoes, id be keeping it and fixing the small amount of problems you have.

cylinder one, long wooden dowel into the spark plug whole, turn until the dowel moves up and then starts to fall, once it starts to fall turn opposite way until it moves up, then do small rocking movements until you know where the point it doesn't move, this is TDC on cylinder 1. then note where it lines up in relation to the marks on the covers. and belt. but best way to make sure its at TDC. Had to do this on my Golf GTI mk2 when i changed the Head gasket and someone rotated the engine for me to what the pistons go up and down with out the head on......barstewards

No problem matey, but please can you post some pictures up once its happened so we can all drool over them and wish we were there lol

Hi ya, sorry to say this but you will have to subscribe to receive PM's and send them, you also get the edit post option too. but i cant see there being a problem with arranging this tbh matey. Would love to come but need to sort a few things out first lol

Tiger seal, its a polyurethane UV sealant. its what the armed forces uses, bloody good stuff and will keep the liquid stuff out. and comes in a tube like any sealant does. just cut your nozzle to the required width so you can have a nice big bead and seal away, it stays slightly flexible as well. I found with the rear lights, using a very sharp thin flexible knife the easiest option. just don't expect to be keeping the knife after, and pay attention to the bodywork

the feed back system is a load of crap, I've been a member of ebay for around 4 years now, i have 3 feed back scores and 100% , and I'm finding it bloody hard to get people to even leave feed back. I've bought a few items here and there, and most get my feed back, then don't even bother leaving any for me, peeing me right off to be honest. as when i want to buy something from ebay, if they have "no people with less than 5 feed back" i have to send them a bloody message before i do anything.

have a ring around mate, see if anyone has opened a body shop around your area recently? they might be trying to "generate" more work.

fecking hell shrek :blink: you just sorted that out on the road as well, and i know how you feel, i had someone key my Pug 406, then slash 2 tires on the passenger side, then i had that incident with the silver zed where some little scroat slashed 3 tires on that one. Some people just aren't worth the air they breath. hope its not too deep a scratch

gotta love it when someone lists the mods and then says its kicking out around 400BHP, even with the mods i have on mine, which is a little bit more than that. and the fact i have boost jets giving me 14PSI (shows 16 on the boost gauge though) I'm still only reaching about 370, probably less due to age. BHP goes down with age not up. and I've never known a car to keeps its original out of the factory BHP figures. Its nice but if they are willing to lie about the power gain from the mods listed. what else are they going to "forget" to put in the add? Stick with the one you have matey. it might be a bit tatty around the edges (so is mine) but everything on these cars can be fixed, from the engine to the gear box to the body work as long as its not been in a very serious crash or anything. If yours is up and running with no major issues, where is the point in getting rid, just to get a Unknown that could potentially end up worse off? there is definitely more to the saying "better the devil you know"

Jim now your a subscribed member, put a journal up, list everything that is wrong with your car (or send it too me in a PM) and ill let you know if its worth while breaking it, or repairing matey.

You know that if you subscribe (only £20 for the first year, and 15 the years after that) you get a Edit button, and the ability to receive PM's (very handy when you want to buy items in the for sale section) :whistling:

:blink: you cant be serious lol POV = point of view

booger orf, you bought them so you could pretend your bond, i bet you have a BB Walther PPK hand gun with silencer as well. and so he could do a POV vid of himself.

Your best bet considering your going to be doing a engine swap at some point, would be to get a new wiring loom. Would be worth it, then you can defiantly rule out any cabling issues.

cheers matey was good too meet you yesterday, link might prove usefull to others as well :D Ill check them out.

In my quest for answers to my smoking problem on my breaker when i was going to be putting it on the road, i found a few issues that make up smoking rear ends. - Steam - White - Dissipates quite quickly when exiting the exhausts - cold mornings while the condensation builds up and then gets heated up on the inside of the exhaust - PCV - White with a tinge of blue - Hangs around a bit longer and isnt noticeable on boost - Tends to smoke from start and also while driving not large amounts of smoke but has a hint of oil smell about it - Over filling with oil on oil change - White with a tinge of blue - same as PCV - Beginning of turbo seal failure - White with a tinge of blue - Smells of exhaust gas mixed with oil - happens after 4 to 5 minutes of idling after a drive and can be noticeable on boost - Turbo seal failure - Heavy white / blue smoke - Smells very thick of oil - happens from engine start and fogs the place out smoke lingers and makes your car look like its onfire lol - Over fueling - Strong smell of unburnt fuel - Smoke is light gray to heavy soot happens from engine start but not as noticeable unless driving - Head gasket failure - Thick white clouds of smoke - very lumpy engine - noticeable at all rev ranges Ok this isn't a comprehensive list of symptoms and causes, but this is what my vast amount of research most commonly pointed to. PLEASE NOTE some symptoms mirror other causes, so its best to start with the simple and easy to reach things and eliminate them first as possible causes.

Well as you wont be driving the rattle can zed no more, can i have your wheels lol

Shell V-power, and if that's out ill use Normal shell, i wont put anything else in now. especially not Sainsburys crap

cheeky fooker lol Mustangs just look like American stock cars, no thought gone into its design what so ever. at least they have made the challenger nice and modern, and the camero looks stunning also.

i have to say that the mustang just doesn't do it for me, give me the new challenger or camero any day. and no i do not like the camero just because bumble bee is one out of transformers, i liked them before that.

get the complete shell redone in element that doesn't rust would be my first port of call. after that. loads of things, but too much to list.

This is true, but i do have a button in the center console to open the mirrors. lol

two 300zx bonnets at that too lol

Well bazzaJG i know it was you as i met ya, was nice to meet you bud, found out why my window stopped working, that box i was on about, was for my alarm, i caught it and unplugged it breaking the connection for the windows lol Lovely motor mate.

the idea was to tap into the function that closes the windows rather than what closes the locks. as the windows need a constant feed until they are done up.