splatt

All instructors on theese things are crap at racing... Pay your money...do your thing. Done a few track days (bike) and had loads of fun...instructors(?) on theese days generally ex racers so know what its all about.... Glad u enjoyed it though, even though it sounds like u had him worried!!!...haha :dance:

WTF...lovely car.... :slap:

The bulb is held in with a spring clip (same as low beam) Its a bit fiddly but if u pull off the waterproof cover etc you should be able to get to the clip. pop it out in 1 and then you can get a bit of leverage on the connector because you can get to it. Its probably not been off before and thats why its stuck.

Little ferkers keep nicking em off my car on the driveway (Loads of BMX's round here with nice caps). Have resorted to crap ones now..they wont touch them!!!..LOL

Good luck mate, hope u have a speedy recovery too!

Good point, and very well made.

ECU dignostic:- http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html Have you done an Autobox diagnostic? http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html

They were prone to a bit o spontaneous combustion when I was in the trade, loads o wiring probs, got a few crispy ones back at the workshop!! haha best thing I reckon.

Does'nt matter mate, as soon as u admit to an accident...fault or not then your premium is loaded by your insurer (you are 4 x more likely to be involved in an accident....if you have been involved in an accident....blameworthy or not..!!! WTF!!!! Trouble is, you dont tell em about it, they find out, cancel your insurance, you try and get some more and they ask 'ever had insurance cancelled/refused....back to square 1. Best way is to vote with your feet. Insurance companies like new business as most people just renew without too mutch question (how many times have we done it?) so they give a bit of a discount for the first year or so. Your call.

fully closed (at idle 750 =/- 50) bet 0.4 /0.5 2000 rpm 4v ish Hope that helps bud.

I used 2 have a few spiders myself, couple of baboon spiders (agressive little suckers) and a costa rican zebra, (that was a fast spider!!) fascinating things but had to get rid of em.

me, direct line 670 quid comp no mods. said I could reduce it by increasing my excess!!! (from 250 upwards) Houghtons, 275 quid comp, minor mods 5 k mileage etc..etc.. If you can do it as a 2nd car on their classic policy its a bargain. no commuting though!!

I had similar and it was fuel pump, as I got up to speed it used to have to tink about it!!! not the case on yours as the fuel pressure is ok. As the weather is sh1te at the mo could the MAF be playing up, I understand they do this. Hope you get it sorted.

check your power steering fluid level first, if thats ok then check your steering wheel alignment. There is a sensor related to the alignment which ins part of the HICAS too!!

I keep finding bits on mine that I dont know, take off and no ill effects. the button must be some kind of resetbut what I dont know!!

iso adapter if your wiring hasnt been butchered, about 20 quid. mine had so i wired in an iso adapter permanantly, makes getting stereo out easier. there was a thread about this a little while ago, found it but cant copy/paste the link for some reason... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=6258 try this..

quite right mate, as per my previous post, I know ferk all, others do....

Am not an expert but it sounds like the oil is warming up and has less viscocity (thinner) and therefore you have the probs, as autoboxes rely on pressure this could be it or it could be that there is a restriction somewhere due to some gunge, Auto oil does not to my knowledga absorb water (it never did when I was a mechanic) so dont see any reason why it has changed, unlike brake fluid which you should change it should be good for life. u r better off getting an auto box expert on this I reckon. Good luck..

Well, have a bit of time off work this week so I did my first headlight upgrade today, even with standard bulbs...WHAT A DIFFERENCE (going to do the other one tomorrow as it looks cr@p), Have pics of the finished item if anyone is thinking of doing it in the future (I know there are others out there, Followed JeffTT's instructions which are excellent, not as hard as you would think (worst part is getting the bast@rd thing out!) but you can do it by removing the lower inner wing liner only (3 bolts to bumper, bend it, see the bolt, although I did take the entire liner out, good chance to clear some mud out!! Thanks again everyone!!

here u go mate,, http://www.mindserv.co.uk/atf_cooler.htm

my cruise dont work either and am told it could be the switches on the pedals, perhaps u have the opposite prob to me, get yourself in the footwell and unplug the switches (u have to be able to bend like a pretzel to do this) and see if it helps, if it does then your pedal cut out switches are ferked or need adjusting.. hope it works..

BTW...thanks everyone, you have been of great help.

Good prices mate, cheap, thinking about a s775 p4 550/board/dvdrw/1g ram...430 quid (ish)...not bad at all. :dance:

If u had no probs before then it possibly has to be an airlock. My neighbour had exactly the same prob as you described and it was a lock. I sorted it for him by flushing the sysyem out (thru lower hose) re fitted the Rad and part filled, ran it, continued to fill and bleed. It can take a while but sounds like it. Once you fill the system with antifreeze it will find any leaks you have !!

I do 34 front 36 rear,