AndyGP

Still playing with Fuel Rail plumbing, how to best route the lines etc Grrrrrrrr

Yes - but the plenum is not finished/fitted yet matey?

No Surely - LAM 81E

Hold down the SHIFT key before you plug your ipod in and you will get asked which profile you would like to use - or create a new one (for each user).

You have to go to a plate sellers mini-site and search within that I believe... Tedious! Alternatively use google by typing the plate you are looking for followed by ebay.co.uk like this: 'bum 53r ebay.co.uk' seems to work.... HTH

Guys this is for OBD-II cars only - your 1991 zed will be OBD-I for sure!! Or have I missed something? :chef: Andy

Well standard throttle bodies are 50mm, plus say 10mm for silicon so a 53 - 61mm T-bolt clamp or 45-75 jubilee I guess is the baby. T-BOLTS go in the following confusing sizes AFAIK: T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 53-61mm - for 50mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 57-66mm - for 55mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 63-71mm - for 60mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 65-76mm - for 63mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 73-81mm - for 70mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 79-87mm - for 76mm Silicone T-Bolt Clamp Stainless Steel 83-91mm - for 80mm Silicone HTH

There has benn some talk on tt.net regarding the use of FORD TRUCK engine mounts, and I believe JimmyTT had a look at this option some time ago when his engine was out. I found these links: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=105469&highlight=ford+engine+mount http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=949734 HTH :phone:

Good - I can put that idea to rest as well - thanks chaps ;-)

It's a good question that I think I have asked in the past, and I don't think I got an answer either ;-))

Si, I have contacts in China - and my honey speaks Mandarin and Cantonese (and spanish and english!!) - we have had some success in various sectors forming relationships and doing some import etc. But I would say that China would be overkill for this project - you should look at 'former' Eastern Bloc countries for this kinda work, you get better quality and prices than China. :yes:

Thanks John - appreciate your comments as ever.

Hi, Has anyone performed gasket matching or porting (grinding away the material to match the gasket openings) on the above, I have seen a lot of folks in the US do this (and I have my plenum off still currently so..) I am tempted to Gasket Match the plenum to lower plenum and open up while it is off giving me th eoption to add bigger TB's later. But then is there any point if I don't then match the lower plenum to the heads?:crying: My feeling is that it won't make any discernible difference to the performance of my car due to the restrictions/limitation of the actual plenum itself. And that any real benefit would only be felt by those of you who are in the 500BHP club and beyond right? Any comments, advice feedback or experience of same appreciated! :cool3: Couple of pics to explain...

New bumper will allow full flow to and through those baby's....

Cheers matey - thats the old FMIC - just got a new one - all piping has now changed again lol! Adding an oil cooler correctly should not effect the normal oil pressure AFAIK, it will effect initial cranking pressure, i.e. takes takes a second or two longer to see full cold start-oil pressure. Noticed this in other cars I have modded in this way but otherwise no difference. If you run long lengths of pipe to and from the cooler then it is advisable to go up a size (which I always do) otherwise pressure is same as before - I have not noted any change. The Oilstat will effectively shut out the rad at cold start as well and that helps. I am trying to create a more reliable longer lasting engine by sensibly upgrading everything in line with, and matching, the performance and output gains. This stuff is critical, we change bumpers and add spoilers with no regard to how it effects airflow to the sump/rad. We increase performance (and combustion temperatures) and we forget that for every extra 1000rpm we need to provide a threefold increase in oil cooling! Your right - modern oils will not be damaged by high temps (although some might leave varnish deposits) but my engine is unforgiving and will only suffer me being foolish once. ;-))

New Oil Rad New Auto Tranny Rad

You can over cool the oil - by preventing it from reaching its optimum operating temperature (that it is designed to operate at). Of course you can! I have cooked a JAP AUTO tranny before because it's cooling is inefficient for fast road/spirited driving. It's the major reason for failure of these auto boxes. If your car is bog standard fine, it may live on the edge and survive a few more years but if you are asking more of it (JAP AUTO) you should think about a rad upgrade as a matter of course IMHO.

I think regardless of what we think - that guy has skill - and a lot of it.

Partly polished only - so the hard work is possibly done - possibly not - and you may have to start from scratch (so to speak). Thats still cheap for a plenum though - they usually go around 55ish

Yeah - I forgot to mention that I am talking about a JAP AUTO here...

Yeah - I forgot to mention that I am talking about a JAP AUTO here...

Thanks Guys - maybe I was not clear. I have replaced the main rad, and I have added a new dedicated rad for the autocooler. Question was really regarding an oilstat for this RAD. I don't want to overcool the oil so that it never reaches it's working temp. So I am asking if I should fit an oilstat, and if so at what temp should the oilstat be set. Standard oilstats work at about 80 degrees. But knowing that auto tranny oil can get up to near 140 degrees, I am looking for confirmation as to what an oilstat should be set at ultimately. If 80 degrees if fine - I will be good to go. I get an oil temp readout from my SAW (SHIFT AT WILL) and I have seen it at over 120 degrees after some spirited prolonged driving ;-( Maybe it will be a case of fitting a standard 80 degree oilstat and seeing how it goes. Standard wax oilstats will not operate at temps over 110 degrees and will effectively be screwed/require wax replacement module so a high temp oilstat may be required. I think I have sized the new rad correctly with an 80 degree oilstat so I will suck it and see and let you guys know. Thanks again.

Next question - where is the pressure check valve? And if I have upgraded to a bigger rad with an oilstat - do I need it anymore?

Exactly - that was where I was 'at' - last year - thanks matey. My JAP Auto would get too hot if I was not careful (after market oil temp gauge is essential). Hence the oil cooler upgrade this year. At the same time I am aware that oil that cannot reach it's correct working temp will cause sludge to form and crankcase oil dillution to occur which will of course lead to excessive wear on the bores and elsewhere of course. So the 80 degree thermostat will work ok for the engine oil - should I also fit an 80 degree thermostat for the auto box Legrath. Do the same rules apply? Cheers :clap:

I guess it depends how you drive ;-)) If you have a standard car then all will be well - if your are upgrading then it goes without saying you will need to upgrade the support services to your engine as you ask more of it.