Dazkent

Great to see the comments on here about your car 300zxy. I gota say a Big Thank You to you Rich for being brave enough to try somthing completely new. This is a first of its kind on a Z. And our First fitment of this system on any car!.And our first project as STS dealers. AnAnd also for listening to me in the first place and trusting me that we could do this. The system runs the two downpipes into one then down to the rear were a it splits at the remote waste gate o/s to turbo n/s tinny pipe screamer outlet to n/s. The turbo is air cooled. runs off oil supplied from engine under pressure then is pumped back to the engine for return. The compressore pipe runs back to the engine and then onto the air flow meter. with dump valve up front . The engine has no mods other than turbo fuel pressure regulator . The fueling on the dyno run was fine right up to the full horse power figure . so no problems with injectors ! And there is in fact room for more power. The turbo spools up a little high due to the size of the impeller section of the turbo AR of .63. we are changing this to An Ar .48 size which sould bring down the power band to a much lower lever and give us even more scope on power. Ther is no lag at all with this mod as the N/A engine pulls as it did before and then as power builds up you just get more and more and more...... And the sound is somthing very different . I hope that helps with some of the questions. Regards Daz

The new pipes are very flexible . warm them up in hot water then you can bend and twist then in between to two hard pipes and your done. daz.

As Above. Check basic power supply first to the injector plugs. If you have spark. cas etc are working fine. daz.

you need to set up the base idle using the idle adjustment screw. Also clean throttle boddies etc first . have you got a multimeter which reads htz?

athe auto box crank doesn have a brass bush. It has a steal bush much larger on the outer edge of the crank. chissel it at an angle around its edges and it will come out smoothly. then fit brass manual bush before fitment of manual box.

i missed another one ! bloody broken wrist grrrrr.. Im looking forward to the next meet to come along. Nice pictures yassa.

Just use the car as normal. Good oil from the start. drive sensible for first couple of hundred miles but use the engine. All this no boost and low revs isnt the case now days. If your in any question ask a pro who does this for a living mate. Daz.

sounds like you might have a siezed caliper piston or pads mate.

The gear box is vented it has a small beather at the top. little brass pipe. comming out and bent over. The holes on the side are not breathers.

Which ever way you feel comfy with. many people loop a pipe from top to bottom as its easy and simple to do . Daz

The two pipe connections you have on your gearbox are for the gear box cooler fitted to the uk car. There NOT BREATHERS. so you must either blank or as you say loop a pipe to them just to seal them up mate. Daz

I have driven so many z's over the years and i recon 400bhp with similar torq is a really good area to be in they feel strong dame quick and reliable. most of the big power Z's iv been involved in have felt so different and havnt always been reliable . My Z's around 400bhp and it perfect power for the street mate. daz

they can take some time to bleed. keep at it .

Thanks again guys. That makes good sense Hicas is wicked as we said. But there are limits,i drove an almost brand new Z years ago with 600Bhp and under hard accel i must admit it felt like the car was twisting in two from the rear on launch. So hicas is good as we say but when it comes to puttin big power down Any multi link indipendant suspension set up is flawed. Just look at dragsters simple fixed beams etc etc. Thats the way to get the power down.

Im thinking that people are replacing the hicas because the car feel s better once its been removed. but im most cases it seems theres been wear on the hicas components . joints and arms etc which cause the uneasy feel to the car. not the Hicas system itself . So of corse its gonna feel better when all the play and worn parts are removed.

p.s Thanks for the reply's guys interesting reading

You get me Yassa. Thats my thoughts. Hicas works fantastic when needed. Theres nothing to get used to the car feels as any other. solid and controlled. Theres no agro with these systems iv never fixed a broken hicas. Only ever replaced worn out track rods and ball joints. which is normal wear and tear. If you ever need to change lanes at speed very quickly the hicas will keep the car stable as it steers the rear wheels in the direction of travel. its a life saver. plus It is used on other models.

I just wanted to ask the question to get some idea of what people think. I love hicas its a brilliant system and in the past its been a life saver for sure. Iv seen Hicas blamed for poor stabilty etc but more often than not this has been caused by other reasons when investigations have been done. Whats every one else think? Daz.

Just a quickie . I have never seen and idle or tensioner siezed up or damaged in anyway on a z due to normal wear and tear. Even the belts are very strong.And never seen a belt break by itself before either. And iv been doing these things since the 80's So keep your cost's down keep it simple. Do the belt . Check and replace other parts if nec only. Daz

iv never seen a manifold to head .gasket failure

bummer

manifold to head gasket or the manifold to turbo gasket mate that is blown?

There not that bad to do with the engine in. dont get put off. I recomend changing them without removing the engine.

you dont need to take the heads off to replace the turbo's

yes you can fit the turbo's without removing the engine.