Dazkent

you need to bleed it from the master and wing and slave bleed nipples.

umm disengagment problems normally mean hydraulic problem or clutch fork arm failure.both these can cause crunching. and are very easy to diagnose . slipping in 4th and 5th are different problems and wont be related to the other issues. but would indicate clutch wear. So ot looks like you have two problems mate . clutch wear and clutch control. you said the pedal gets better if you pump it. I would bleed the system and it should by you some time to drive to your garage for the total repair . but i suspect it wont be a simple clutch fix mate. daz

are you changing the clutch due to this problem?

give the clutch a quick bleed sounds like hydraulic problem.

I couldnt find your origanal thread on what your starting problem is. but heres my input. If you have spark to all cylinders . fuel to all cylinders. and you have not changed your plugs in a very long time. Then once again go back to basics. check and replace plugs if needed. They can cause so many problems. so dont over look the obvious. Just a quick not on the coolant temp sensor . If the ecu see's an open circuit for any reason on that sensor system, as this is the ecu's basic primary way to detect dtc's with this eary diagnostic logic. The Ecu doesnt think its over heating it just detect's the fault codes it and then defaults to pre determind value held within the ecu. around 33 deg C the over a few mins the ecu increases the temp value a degree at a time up to around 70 deg or so.I cant remember the exact figure as its been a while since i was involved in training these. Also the cooling fan is switched to "on state" as a fail safe as the ecu has know way of knowing the actual coolant value. hope that helps daz.

Easy job mate couple of hours etc. If your not a pro then look at taking all day .

so are you reconnecting sensors on the z?

vijay is this your ride from way back in 2000 mate? daz

Always Keep it simple mate. Its normally A connection problem. with the injectors if there green and crappy on the connectors then you need to replace the plugs and chemically clean the terminals on the injectors. Also look at ptu connections for intermittant contact failures. and coils and Always remember to check or replace the spark plugs. in my time its nearly always these options .. good luck. but remember keep it simple first!

or did i mean spend a pound to save a penny. you know what i mean lol. :)

Just remember dont listen to everthing you here down the pub!..... get me..? Get professional advise on your vehicle problems from pro. Or you will be running around in circles for ages trying to save a penny to spend a pound ,mate. Daz :)

you have already said the switch is a bit dodgy mate . so its prob the switch causing you the problem. unplug it and see if it carry's on . if it stops then its the switch i would say.

These stand alone systems always look good on paper. but in real terms they always seem to be flawed in some way. as they tend to be for race trim engines . so you can lose the refinment that you get with the stock unit. if its a road car id chip your stock ecu. daz

I take it you will be checking the heads with a flat edge and most prob gonna skim them so dont worry to much when pulling the bolts out .The engine is out so its cold dead and as long as you get them all undone in one hit there wont be any warping however you undo them. But if you are not sure what you should be doing . Good advise is leave it to the pro's . :) daz.

Dont guess mate. get the car to a garage and let a mechanic check it out there could be many areas that can cause the leak you speak off .. no one can say on the internet. d :)

Are we talking auto or manual here as they are different lenghts?

No one likes to pay to much money for stuff. But remember this nissan and other manufacturers spend millions of pounds in development cost to design and build these great cars we drive. So if you want quality and reliable parts. Buy gen and dont penny pinch. If nissan had penny pinch when building the Z how long would they have lastest? :)

The min oil pressure at idle requied is no lower than 11psi.

one coil wouldnt stop it starting mate.

diagnostics with a scan tool can only tell you half the story. diagnostics in the real term i take it thats what you are after mate. when you say everything is it engine faults or dive train? or other issues? many things can be worked out with a bit of understanding of the symptoms.

the vehicle is only in closed loop control under particular driving conditions which meet a closed loop condition. Idle is one. light or constant throtle position driving is another. Accel and decel are both open loop control conditions. therefor you should be able to check the basic operation of your sensors when monitoring knowing this information. please remember if you have a head ach. is the head ach the pain and the cause? or was it you had a bang on the head which caused the head ach. get me ? o2 sensor are sensors not acuators remember they give back information about 02 levels within the exhaust gases. in closed loop the ecu listens to them in open loop they are ignored. daz.

whats the problem with the car mate?

Kenlow have been making these kits for many years and are very reliable. if fitted and set up correctly there very good. D

This all depends on condition of your old arches how much welding and filling needs to be done. condition of your original paint on the rest of the side of the car etc. so its impossible to come up with a price based on not veiwing the car etc. I would take your car to a few body shops get a few quots together and see were you stand from there mate. d

it sounds flooded. if you have spark and fuel pretty much should go.. also disconnect the mafs and try again to start her . clean and dry all plugs then try again even if they look ok. other than that you need to do a compression test. you may have a valve problem. daz