Dazkent

you can reach that bolt from under the dash without the need to remove all the clocks etc.

Sounds like bearing failure from what you discribe. i wouldnt think the oil change is gonna help much. soz daz

The top bolt you are on about can easy be reached from uner the dash without removing the clocks etc. just need a 12 inch 3/8 extenstion bar and 12mm socket move the harness away alittle and remove the 4 bolts to the servo unclip the pedal pin and the bolts under the bonnet and she will pull out with a bit of wiggleing. top tip for refitting the box is to remove 5mm from the top edge of the pedal box so it then easy clears the loom on the refit. daz

Why is it such a problem doing the turbos on the car? ! come on guys you not thinking straight here. :)

why wouldnt he warranty the work? what would be the problem?

They dont work crap . why do you say that? Fill it with water mate if it leaks it dead. your soon see. dont very often need a pressure test on these.

Check you have the correct oil in the box. plus i have had in the past the little 5th gear interlocker cause crunching in 5th . its the little plate on the side top of the gearbox near to the output shaft for the gear selector. just remove it and check its not sticky in any way. daz.

yes mate they are different . daz.

Those results look ok to me. just a little boore wear . but your basic results look ok.

you dont need to run really high boost to gain the benifits from lower comp pistons.

fill it with water mate . see if it leaks

I disagree. If you want room to improve things later on then its a good choice to fit 8's it will give you more scope and reliabilty for the future. If your not sure speak to a pro. :) daz.

if the car pulls when not under braking then its very unlikly to be the brakes. Check the tyres mate. as you have had it traked a number of times. try swaping the tyres front to back at first see if anything changes . then go from there. yu wouldnt believe how many times a tyre cause problems and yet there the last thing people check . daz.

No it does'nt you wont notice the difference in that way with correct set up.

Go for 8:1 nows a good time to do it will help with reducing the risk of det. and allow you to run higher boost. daz.

one tooth? when did it jump was it running? how did you find out? few more clues would help mate.

soz guys i only made a small comment about doing them on the car. il keep me trap shut lol..

i have to disagree Jeff. just to make this clear mate im no “Johnny come lately specialists” Find out who i am mate. I dont diss agree with some of your comments.i think your missing the point i was making. Replaceing the turbo's on the car isnt a quick fix by any means. its a long job which takes skill and confidence to do corectly. if dueing these repairs any parts removed were found to be in poor condition then it would be ridiculas not to rectify them at that time. my previous statment didnt surgest in any way that i would recomend not being strinjent in the repair. but Why woulld anyone inspect looms and replace rear main oil seal etc when they are not removed for the repair or even disconnected. and engine set up ? As i said on my prev post if a vehicle requires many repairs then a repair stratagy needs to be made based on that basis. There members on this forum who's turbos have been replace this way and are still going strong 10 years later. would you still replace all the items you speak of if the customer to you had recently had those jobs done before ? And surley customer buget should always be considered. or were do garages stop? while its on the ramp you may as well over haul the whole car ? as its in the garage . no comprimise.. Im not saying your wrong jeff. so please dont consider me to be so either. As for the training mate. i consider The manufacturer to be by far the best place to be trained on a product. Topless. mark. You know me mate. so i cant speak of costs etc. but i would say 6 hours a side is the norm for on the car turbo replacement.baring any problems. daz.

jef i am a professional . And its far easyer frm a diy point of veiw to remove the engine as you then have the space to work on the engine. but a pro can work in close spaces. that s the reason i do threm on the car. so theres no other issues with anything else. you do the trubo's and thats it. Nothing else is disconnected so no other issues can arrise . so from a warranty point of veiw it makes better sense to me. And you can replace just one turbo if you wish. as many people do due to cost issues. Now if some one says i need turbo's .cam belt . water pump . pcv's . water etc etc. then of corse a different course of action will be required. As for the time scale it takes a bout 6 hours a side. The guy that was partners in hiteq when it started I knew him as we were both at nissan together. Maybe its our nissan training . lol Daz P.S At the end of the day its about choice and what option fits each job at hand. But the point i was trying to make is there are options..

ok mate. cool

The reason for doing the turbo's on the car is you dont disturb much. connectors hoses etc arnt disconnected and thus less chance of running into other problems. plus it saves time.

who wrote that artical jeff?

And if yo uare slipping in 5th it still could be a worn clutch as well. does it only slip when worm? if so when she is hot check under the dash on the clutch pedal and look at the free play on the clutch arm that enters the clutch servo there should be 1mm or so of play on the link rod. the one with the lock nut on it. if theres no free play this may cause the clutch to be held off slightly when hot. if theres play and she still slips. your gonna need a clutch as well . Daz

Just a quicky . you can most definately replace the turbo's with the engine still in the car. Daz

i always open the slave and let it run out for a few sec.s then close then bleed at the master then the wing then the slave. it can take some time bt since you have a little pedal already i would try just bleeding from the wing first mate it may be all you need.