ianl

anything hapening then? can't do the 19th so only interested if it's the 12th

yes :)

and me !

only if someone fits some turbos to it before then, oh and a clutch servo, and a suspension

i'm up for it :)

i disagree :) the only way to really delimit is to reprogram the ECU, using a converter fools the ECU into thinking you havn't reached the limit speed yet (so in effect raising the limit) changing to UK clocks does not affect the signal sent to teh ECU therefore can not affect the limit

4 i know of sillverbullit, lets drift and a blue and a grey heres 1: there were another 3 or 4 about the site

"oi mate, is it meant to be doing that?"

connecting jump leads to the starter motor doesnt start the car so is no use to car theeives it is simply an acsesable point to connect to the battery

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=106220&highlight=flat+battery+door

i seam to remember someone suggesting connecting jump leads to the starter motor

well of the 2 suggested by other people: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/kenw...3smuq7caifmf36 says: "Pre-out 2 RCA " so this has a pair of front outs (left and right) and a pair of rear outs (left and right) so does my "option 2" and "Preout Rear / Subwoofer Switchable" which means if you have no rear speakers you can switch the rear outputs to be dedicated sub outputs (no use to you) http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alpi...3smuq7caifmf36 says: "3 RCA Pre-outs for connection of External Amplifiers (with subwoofer level control)" which means you have a a pair of front outs (left and right) and a pair of rear outs (left and right) and a dedicated sub output so this does my "option 1"

i need to put heaters on? as in hot air vents in car or hot air gun pointed at radiator?

you need front (left and right) and rear (left and right) rca line outputs (preamp) for the subs there are 2 options, 1. a headunit with dedicated sub output (need to run an extra cable all the way back to the amp) the headunit decides what frequencies to send to the sub amp 2. split the rear signal so it feeds both the "rear amp" and the "sub amp" using ready made rca splitter cables. the sub amp then needs to have a setting to decide what frequencies to use (known as crossover or low pass filter or something similar)

ah, i've got an older 6ch jbl gto which hasn't

i've replaced the top rad pipe on my tt, now obviously i've lost at least a pipes worth of coolant. so i need to top it up. this is something i've not done for years and not ever on the zed, do i just poor some in the radiator cap(well the hole left after taking the cap off obviously)? how do i know when i've got enough? how do i turn the air in the new top pipe into water or will it do it itself? do i need to run the engine to move it round and then add more? do i need to unscrew the plug on the top of other end of the rad what happens if i overfill it? does itpiss on the floor, go into an overflow tank or blow up? damn i sound new or blonde or both

the cables from the head unit to the amp are just like you use on home stereos to connect cd player to amplifier, a pair of phono to phono cables (also known as RCA) the only difference is there is an extra wire stuck to them to switch on the amplifier when you switch on the headunit. if you plan to use amps as you have been discussing then you need to make sure the headunit has "line out" sockets for front and rear (ie 4 phono sockets hanging out the back of the headunit. i would also be tempted to get a headunit whith seperate tone controls (bass and treble) or EQ (fancy tone control) for front and rear speakers i also kind of agree with takemetothepub that for a lot of people a modern head unit can be quite capable of powering front speakers (its what i've done in one of my cars) so i would be tempted to get a amp to run rear and sub you can always add a front amp latter if you want on the subject of amps, a subbass needs lots more power than the rest of the speakers (bigger driver to move etc) so i wouldnt advise a 6ch amp where all 6 channels are the same power, as i mentioned before it is quite usual to bridge 2 amp channels into a sub so i would use a 6 ch amp to run 2 front, 2 rear and ONE sub. or a 4ch amp to run 2 rear and ONE sub so if you want to run 2 subs you may need to buy a big 2ch sub amp and smaller amps for the rears and or fronts. remember power is not a measure of how good something is or necesarily how loud it is. use your ears

very little extra wiring, you still just run the one speaker wire to each door, but it connects to a small plastic box called a crossover, then you run 2 short speaker wires one to the 6" and the second to the tweeter also worth considering is, do you really need two subbass speakers? the science says that unless you can get them within one wavelength of each other (which you cant really with 2x12" in a zed) then you only add 3db to the volume when you double the number of speakers. for the human ear to think it is twice as loud you need an increase of 10db, therefore to make one subbass speaker sound twice as loud you need 8 subbass speakers. i would suggest getting one good subbass speaker in a well designed box (large sized box) is far more effective than two in smaller boxes the other benefit of only one is you can "bridge" the stereo amplifier to produce a more powewrful mono amplifier (very roughly speaking a bridged amp will produce 4 times the power of a single channel) there fore saving you money and space at the end of the day, what we each like is different to the next person and sometimes what we like defies science. if youve got time then listen to other peopes set ups, decide what you like the sound of, ask them what they would have done different and go with that

when replacing the speakers in the front doors i would seriously consider components (ie as well as the 6" speaker in the door there is a small tweeter which fits to the top of the door card) if you don't add the extra tweeter then all the top end clarity can get lost in your legs (especially if you have a passenger)

2awg is a big cable to be trying to get down the car and i would say unnecesary unless you are after serious power or into stupidly loud car stereo shows the difference in voltage drop between 2awg and 4 awg is fairly minimal most instals will more likely be done in 8awg or 10awg per amplifier and maybe 6awg for 2 amps i chose 10awg cable for both of mine as a nice size cable to work with (one is 2 amps running 12"sub, 2 6x9 and 2 6" and the other is a 6ch amp running 2 8" subs and 2 6x9 and 2 6") i'm slightly deaf, work in the PA industry and like to be able to hear my music clearly and undistorted with the roof down on the motorway speaker cable wise look at either 16awg or 14awg (1.5mm or 2.5mm) note: as awg number gets smaller the cable size gets bigger remember to get multistranded cables as the big power cables are eisier to work with and audio (speakerwire) signals travel better down many thin wires rather than one thick one make sure that if there are any stock in line ampifiers in your car you bypass them, also bypass any stock speaker wires and run new wires from the amp all teh way to the speaker make sure you get a good ground connection to the chassis of the car for teh amplifier make sure you fuse the power feed to the amp as close as possible to the battery, consider extra protection on the cable where it passes through metalwork is a power cap needed? possibly, if your into huge amounts of bass and subbass, i havn't bothered as i like a punchy bass sound without the big booming sub sound (power cap stores energy in case your amp wants more instantaneous power on the bass beats than the car can provide) but it does look shiny :) also make sure if you have any electroluminescant / neon stuff that your stereo cables are well away from the cables from the inverter to the neon (ie, my light up door sills make my stereo whistle really loudly when they are on) also consider where you want to put the amps before deciding on one big or 2 smaller, under passenger seat (unless you have electric seat) is a good place if you want to hide your amps rather than show them off. depending on make youll either get a 2ch or a 4ch under there

yes :)

guess i better go to the doctor, ah you mean the problem with the car, not had a chance to look at it but it was fine all the way home

yup, just need to know where and when

depends if you still have your rear wiper. i agreed with the bodyshop where i wanted mine to sit but they had to move it back to miss the wiper motor