ianl

hmm, did anyone else see the Graham Norten show with the callender with pictures of naked bikers sat on their bikes holding their cats in front of their bits.................

depends if you want: something that looks pretty , fills the boot, and produces sh1t loads of bass when you are stood outside the car with your mates admiring it; or a good quality sound for you when you are driving it, loud enough to listen too on the motorway with the targas off if the second i personnally would use the infinity 6x9 and the infinity subs, get rid of the rest, buy some infinity components and buy 1 or 2 decent amps to run it all (decent as in sound good, work well,ie alpine, kenwood, infinity ;not as in have a cool name and lots of go faster lights, ) then spend a lot of time thinking about where to put the speakers so they sound right to you in the driver seet, ie 6x9s in the boot you will loose a lot of the high frequencies compared to components in the doors, my infinity 6x9s have a top boost switch which from the driver seet makes them sound similar in frequency response to the components. think about the box for the subs and the size it should be for the sound yu want. i only have 1 12" sub in mine and its plenty load enough (i personally think once the bodywork starts vibratin there is no point going louder) also what sort of sub sound do you want, i like a punchyer sound rather than a rumbly sound therefore personally i wouldnt go up to a 15" sub and tend to prefer the sound of my twin 8" sub in my second zed

got to agree, worked to many gigs with too loud music and seen too many annoying pissed people to want to join them at it anymore. going down the local scout hut to play poker and guitar hero and have a chat with mates without having to shout over the loud music

the small round recessed grey bit on the drivers side just above the 303v sticker is the bulb holder my '95 vert window switch is the same as the one in your picture, wiring was there and lit up fine once i'd changed the bulb

i changed both of mine to LED just by modifying the bulb holder: rip old bulb out of holder with pliers, bought a 5mm wedge bulb http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/wide-angle-high-ultimate-wedge-blue-p-1428.html , unfolded wires, pulled blue casing off, put LED in bulb holder, tuck wires into place (optional add 2 small blobs of solder ) and put holder back in switch

me too :)

1. Joel (Joely P) - nr Stansted, Essex - Jap Manual TT LWB - Anywhere on earth! 2. Paul (300_zedx) - nr Rochester Kent - Jap Auto TT LWB - Anywhere 3. Steve (steve burns) - Greenford Middlesex- Pah 280ZX - Anywhere before my mobilty cart batteries run out :D 4. Stu (yassa) - chatham,kent - Jap Auto TT LWB - Anywhere within reason 5. Ant (Ant_300zx) - Basildon, Essex - Jap Manual TT LWB - Anywhere 6. Nick (Takemetothepub) - Canvey Island, Essex - Not a Zed - Anywhere 7. Nick (nickz32) NE Hampshire/Richmond Surrey - S4 Jap Manual LWB TT - 100miles Each Way 8. Stu (SMW1) - Chadwell Heath, Essex - Jap Manual TT LWB - I'm picky 9. indian_zx-heathrow-middlesex-GTO almost anywhere. 10. Mark (Topless)- Putney, TT Convertible- 2 hour drive 11. Ian (ianl) - Guildford, surrey, ukmanttlwb or vert - somewhere

well, i've been to almost every SE meet held south of London for the last 3 years, and i think attendance has been a minimum of 6 cars but mostly in the 10 to 20 range, i've also reguarly checked the region to see if i have time to get to any of the meets in essex or north london

swb ttop discontinued from '96

when you say you checked fuses, there are 3 relevant fuses, one for each headlamp relay and one that supplies the switches thinking further an intermitent short to chassis (due to snaged or melted insulation) of the wire from the light switch to the near side headlight relay would cause all the symptoms you have described

from your description i would suggest that the off side relay isnt supplying voltage to the lights.this could cause the bright dim combination and the changes when you added an earth cause of this could be: fuse supplying relay, relay, socket relay plugs in to, wires from back of fuse holder, connectors at lamp. if you vave a voltmeter check the voltage at all these places however i'm not sure how this would make the lights come on by themselves with out a second fault, either the light switch, flashing stalk or the other relay. maybe worth disconnecting all the lights and measuring voltage to each light

in the latter manual (95 or 96 onwards) they included details on the convertible zed, so one of the main differences is the diagrams all have extra labels sayinh "not vert" and "vert only" and there are extra pages dealing with vert things. also different is the hicas details and i think the early manual didnt mention manual air con control where the latter one does

oh my god, i'm even more embarased now, some of those people looking at me must think i've fitted duck call bovs !!!!

my zed has developed a squeek, not dissimilar to a duck on heat, its so loud i can hear it in the car with the stereo turned up (believe me its turned up as i try to ignore all the looks of people saying look at thet idiot in his big fancy car that sounds like a randy duck) anyway back on topic, it is coming from the front left suspension, it happens on any uneven road, pot holes, drain covers, speed bumps, or if i bounce up and down on the front left wing. i recently had new front tension rods which werent as hassle free as i hoped and i'm wondering if they are still at fault, i also have bigger front brakes. so finally getting to my question: is this a typical symptom of something needing replacing, tightening, oiling or otherwise tweeking?

1. KIM 2. zx-eyes 3. Andy D 4. Saz 5. Lisaf 6. wow300 7. Funkyboogalooo 8. Car.Mad + 1 9. tulip 10. Zogg 11. j1mmytt 12. znut+wife+daughter 13. krsmayo 14. snowygt 15. twinturbotez 16. IanL

photos of engine bay fuse box: when you turn on the lights rotary control inside your car it sends a 12v feed to the 2 relays marked H/LAMP LH and H/LAMP RH. when energised these relays provide 12v to both the dipped headlights and the full beam headlights when you push the lever for full beam forward this sends 12v to the changeover relay marked H/LAMP DIM. this relay choses which of the headlights (dipped or full beam) is connected to ground. the changeover relay operates on both the left and right sides at the same time so is unlikely to be your fault. i asume your description of stuck on is you switch the rotary control to off and one light stays on? things to try: when set to dipped is it the dipped that is stuck on , when switched to full beam is it the full beam stuck on? if you swap over the LH and RH relays does the fault swap to the other side

stock jap spec is small side light bulb in the fog light unit, just indicator and a blank bit in the indicator after about 94/95 they added cornering(or Kerb) lights in the blank bit of the indicator which come on when your headlights are on and you are indicating (bulb is same size bulb as indicator and fog) some people with cars pre cornering light move their side lights from the fog to the blank bit of the indicator either by buying newer indicator units or by modifying the blanks from memory the stock jap fog/side has a conector cliped to the back, fed from 3 wires

the headlight washers only work when the headlights are switched on and you press the headlight washer button

if you wire it as per JoelyP picture then i wouldn't bridge the amp , as running it hard bridged into 2 ohms could make it overheat or protect i would either do it as per your picture as bridging into 4 ohms will give the maximum power without risking the amp shutting down or simply wire each voice coil to a different channel of amp

my last cat used to only drink out of a pint tankard, she could drink it right to the bottom

bridge it! bridging produces more power than just adding the 2 channel powers together. the bridged amp sees the sub as a lower impedance than it is so delivers more power

i've got a spare PS2 doing nothing, happy to stick it in the post for free

lot of people with manual conversions complaining of blown clutch boosters, it makes me wonder if we should be fitting all that extra vacuum resevoirs and piping and gubbins that nissan fitted as standad in the tt manual

a proper reconed auto box is going to be in the region 1000 to 1500 fitted a second hand manual conversion 500 to 800, plus any bits you decide to replace with new (ie clutch) probably in the 1200 region fitted

hmmmmm, i went to change the ignition barrel bulb to a led in my 95 vert, expecting it to be door operated and found no bulb, no bulb holder, no wiring loom...... :(