John Dixon

Have a look at Devins stuff on http://www.ztechz.net, good place to start.

Yep, you can soften it a bit with some acetone. Good for cleaning flux off too.

Ian, you might want to look at what plugs Z1 and GMS run in their big power 11s cars .....

Just got nearly 10k miles from a set too!

Here we go again .....

Hi Ryan, Hose between balance bar and Idle valve if that's OK bud? Just let me know the cost. Cheers

I always get that, even though I am going slowly!!! Car just sounds faster than it is! Swear I never go over 20 in that sort of area. Infact I don't remember going much over that the whole time I was there :p

Sure is, not sure how the guy who took it didn't really look like he knew how to use the camera ;) Have your neighbours forgiven me for all the noise?

Someone asked me for a picture of what I'd used so here it is:

Cheers Smithy wonder is UK / US spec are the same then.

Have posted on the GTR one. Figured the average Z33 owner would know sod all about it yet! Doing some work on one at GPS soon, so can always check it out then.

That's what I was hoping, just need the measurements to make sure!

Anyone got accurate measurements of diameter, thickness, offset etc. Wondering if the Z33 ones are the same as the american tuners are starting to do cheap replacements.

Leigh, these are the PC/104 type computers I spoke about: Here Lots more available, but 4 serial ports makes it ideal for datalogging / tuning.

http://www.splparts.com or http://www.conceptZperformance.com for the tie rods. Once it's set up it shouldn't det. BUT the det sensor gives you an easy telltale. AFR dosen't tell the whole story, fuel could be spot on and timing wrong and it'll still ping.

No he didn't, git! Even got it wrong, they're 2 piece :slap:

Depends what you want it for really. Unless you plan to do tuning with it I'd probably go for a det sensor instead.

The line you're thinking of will be the vacuum line to the passenger's side AIV valve I think.

Do a search, posted on it a while back. It's a fuel pressure bump up for starting / high fuel temp. Certainly not essential though.

Cool, basically that means you can remove the 2 solenoids at the RHS of the engine bay + all piping, and the PRVR solenoid by the battery + surge tank in wing. Should make it all look a bit simpler!

Chris, Off balance bar LHS, one 1/4" to carbon cannister. Plenum LHS, one 3mm, connect to FPR then junk PRVR system next to battery. One 1/4" to LHS recirc via hardpipe. Bal bar RHS, one 3mm to boost gauge sender+ AIV Solenoid (if not removed). One 3mm to fuel damper. One 1/4" to RHS recirc, one 1/2" to servos. Two 3mm pipes on RHS of plenum, one to RHS throttle body, one to turbo inlet, these feed EGR solenoid / AIV solenoid, junk and plug if it's removed. LHS throttle body, one 3mm to carbon cannister, plug if removed. If you junk the AIV, EGR, PRVR and carbon cannister then you have very few hoses.

Yup, me too. Boring load of crap. And it's all I'll hear about at work today.

About £230. Check out the site http://www.wbo2.com

Finally got the wideband sensors in my car and Leighs rigged up this weekend. Top notch kit. Cheers to Leon at Alunox for sorting out the bosses so quickly. Now got my original sensors disconnected and this one rigged up to the ECU instead. Also got mine rigged up to log MAF voltage, TPS and coolant temp too. Now going to get 2 EGT's in the old lambda bosses and maybe a one in the TB to get charge temp. The software with it will log all of that + AFR and RPM in real time at 10ms intervals. Even without the PC connected up you just hit a button on the unit and it records it for download later. Got mine displayed on the profec E01, Leigh's has the tech edge display unit. Immediately showed up that as we suspected the det problem on Leighs car was due to lean running, maxxed out stock injectors. AFR ~13.5 on full load! Was going to do some mapping on mine but bust the cable on my emulator so couldn't.

I'd agree with these guys, start by looking at the fuelling. Don't take the line off the FPR, that'll make things worse! Best thing is to get a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what's happening there. Also check that your timing is set to 15°BTDC, if it's too far advanced that'll cause it. Also possible the chip is too advanced / lean if it's for jap fuel.