John Dixon

Finally landed at Ztech, so started the strip down for inspection / rebuild. Need to replaced the weak plastic chain guides, but otherwise looks OK. Going to leave stock internals for now, replace all gaskets and seals and get it in and running. Looks bullet proof, the bottom end is 4 bolt and cross-bolted with a huge girdle too. Very esay design to dry sump too :cool: Only real problem was that several of the cam cap bolts rounded (they're torx) so took ages to get the cams off. Cheers again to Ryan for the space :bow:

Nissan VH45DE. Should have some pics tonight, as spent today stripping it at Ztech. Will post them.

The ABS is crap with bigger callipars. Not too sure if the standard Z pedal feel is down to it or not yet. Going to remove mine when the V8's going in, so might do a write up then.

The big silver one is the stock engine oil cooler. The small one at the front is probably an aftermarket slushbox cooler.

Mine, but only just :D

Looks like the gain is probably too high. Back it right off, then bring it back up to get stable response. During this time, just put in a set value to give you a boost level somewhere above the wastegate's opening value. Also, while you're doing it, put the start boost at 0, set it last about 3psi below the final level you want.

Do a search on this for AFR or AFC. Waste of time IMO, just a crude way of imposing a 2D enrichment over your nice 3D maps. Also, as the Z load scales are based on air flow, it messes with the timing too.

Mine's not lowered all that much, think it's about 3cm. The only place I get a slight rub is on the arch shroud where it covers the brake pipe manifold on the RHS, but that's only since fitting 245's on the front.

Shouldn't be, it's more effective to squeeze a little more from the 370's. The JWT 555 chip is terrible IMO. Too lean in the mid range, too rich at the top.

Put my powertrix upper arms on last week, and finally set them up this weekend. Initially, without them on camber was ~ -2.5° on both fronts. Played around a bit and around -1.0° seems to give the best feel, car feels much more stable in a straight line. Set the castor up to 9° aferwards, which is where I had it before. Seems OK, steering weights up nicely. Overall, seem to be able to lean on the front much harder now than before and not use the diff to steer it so much. Odd thing is that the inital over-dartiness on turn in that I'd put down to excess toe appears to have gone, but not sure yet if that's because the toe settings have been affected by adjusting the camber (i'm thinking shortening the upper arm length has moved the track rod end inboard).

You don't want a rising rate one. There's a throttle enrichment function in the ECU to give 'stab' enrichment. A rising rate regulator will just overfuel it with no benefit. Go with the NISMO if you want one, it allows you to raise the base line pressure, but more importantly it retains the 1:1 fuel pressure : manifold pressure relationship.. It fits in the stock location too.

Better off using Cos at CZP mate. Usually cheaper and much better service when I've used them. Link

Anyone know the steering rack ratio on the NA vs TT. Been told it's slightly quicker due to not having the HICAS assisting, so thinking of fitting one when my engine is out. Cheers

Yeah, single exit all the way. Sounds like it's revving twice as quick, awsome :D

Yes, it's the better way to do it really. If you ask Friday nicely he might take a picture of his for you, as I'm sure I did his that way. Can't take a piccy of mine as it's a little different.

You can bypass it under the bonnet instead: On the HICAS solenoid in the engine bay, you have 4 hoses. 2 on the bottom run back to the rack. On the top there are 2. One is a feed from the pump, one is a return to the tank. Cut the banjo fitting off the feed then connect it straight to the tank and job's done. Best use a pipe cutter to cut it so you don't get any filings in the system. Once that's done, the added bonus is you can junk the solenoid and failsafe valve - this will make the HICAS light come on though.

You'd think so but ......

No probs mate, pleased it helped a bit. It's character building working on Z's in the snow anyway :eek:

You don't need to bleed it if the HICAS is removed, it's a separate circuit from the front, so if there's air in it it doesn't matter.

Surely the point here is that if the oil is getting hot enough that a 60 is the correct viscosity (ie the viscosity a 40/50 is at lower temp) then it's too hot and some extra cooling is needed? Fair enough, a 60 at x deg might be the same viscosity as a 40 at y degrees, but temperature affects oils in other ways, is it the best way to go about it?

I sent them some feedback and suggested they should get in touch with Macca

Give me a buzz sometime and I'll talk you through it. Can't be bothered to type it all! 07976909770

Cool, glad it's sorted

Sorry I didn't hang about or chat a bit more, was just too bloody cold! Blew my clutch on the first run, so didn't see much point doing too many more.

No, just above the HICAS rack, bolted to the floorpan.