nickz32

Apparently I clicked WTF on this post..... must have been a fat thumb moment because I didn’t mean to!

Which is precisely what JWT do, just starting with fresh cores

From Mitch

It’s can certainly be a consideration...... although Piper cams were never regarded as top quality products

Hahahaha..... should have put my glasses back on before typing that :lol:

As and when I do change cams, it’ll coincide with changing to adjustable exhaust pulleys, larger TB’s and extrude honing the OE upper Plenum.... but that’s probably some way off. There’s some chassis based “madifications” that are further up my “to do” list

Quite possible, and they’re then “fully hardened” with some form of hardening process?

I was going to guess they were regrinds, but that doesn’t make sense as regrinds usually have a reduced base circle, which the EPR one don’t (they retain the OE base circle)

They do?

EPR Genesis 1 cams.... 272degree @ 10.2mm lift

Well I was hoping to give a little update saying that I’ve added a set of camshafts to the spec of my engine so I’m able to take full advantage of my CNC ported head, CNC ported lower Plenum and SuperTech valvetrain...... However, no amount of Man Maths I do can generate another £1500 to go into this build. So for the mean time, I’m having the heads machined for extra lobe clearance, so whenever I can afford to update my cams, they can drop in without the need to remove the heads again for further machining A little gutted, but hey, cant always have everything our way!

I would say that if your oil pump had failed, you’ve have more damage than just one spun rod bearing. Given how the crank is fed, your Main bearings would had suffered oil starvation before the big ends in the event of a pump failure. Unlike their RB counterparts, VG oil pumps are sturdy bits of kit that rarely fail. However rod bearing failure is a fairly common thing on VG’s. We’re all the engine internals thoroughly cleaned prior to reassembly, including the oil galleys and sludge traps in the crankshaft? What were you bearing clearances set to? What brand bearings were used? Who built the engine?

Meaty

Don’t entirely agree with that. From the video chat we had the other week, it sounds like it’s spinning enough to potentially start, but still sounded like a fairly slow crank over, and it significantly drains the battery after 2 or 3 start attempts. That, in my eyes, is not normal. It may be a symptom of your issue (an electrical gremlin somewhere sapping power and preventing a start) or it may be unrelated... I’m not sure. Once you/we have verified you have a good spark, as Joel says, would be wise to the verify the correct plugs are attached to the correct coils and injectors. We know you have fuel as it floods, so next step would be to check its firing the plug st the correct time and firing the injectors at the correct time. At least we have learned something new, that the fuel pump fusible link is connected to the ignition coil relay.... always thought they were independent circuits!

And if you’re a little confused Lee, JoelyP and i we’re talking about the problem last night.... he’s not hacked your phone or anything

Honestly mate, it’s easier to pull the engine than it is to pull th with the engine in situ

Recently posted on FB, but it appears that Samuri Motors has been resurrected... https://www.samurimotorcompany.com/history-of-samuri-motor-company/ Appears they’re planning on offering work on 300ZX’s, aswell as the 240/260/280Z’s that they were originally known for. Not sure on what to expect from them in relation to our Z’s, but curious to see how things develop.

I think that was a block belonging to le_wild_z on Instagram... but here’s my block with his

I shall be having a conversation with them this week. On a positive note, my Billet main caps are due to be machined today...

Admins, feel free to clean this thread up for the benefit of the OP, cheers.

I’ve got the same issue, and I’m yet to figure it out.... Jeoly might have a suggestion as he was helping me figure mine out

Depends on your budget, but Nistune daughter board my suit what you want. Greg @ Protuner supplies fits and maps them. Your other options are a standalon ecu like a Haltech, Link or Syvecs or an off the shelf eprom and swap to an earlier 8 bit ecu. However I wouldn’t suggest the latter as they take the “one size fits all approach” and are a far cry from optimising YOUR engine

My “beef” is sarcastic replies, holier than thou attitude and you calling me a cheeky **** ..... that has a habit of getting people’s backs up Jeff. A simple public apology will suffice

Excuse me? Don’t dish out the sarcasm to me if you can’t take it back! I offer rationale for my suggestion to the OP to establish the source of his problem, questions your still presumptive solution in a polite manner and all you offer sarcasm and insults from the safety of your “retirement” office. Do us all a favour Jeff, get off your “I know better than everyone because I’ve got 20 years experience” high horse and maybe you can start offering helpful rationale to your infinite wisdom, and keep your insults to yourself!