nickz32

The same as any other 2+2 lol! From memory my current wiring (which is 16awg) is about 4m when all the twists and turns of getting it to the pump connector

New Ti automotive 525lph fuel pump arrived today. This thing will give me a good 15% headroom with flow for what I need but is pretty amp heavy in comparison to my AEM320lph pump (525 draws just under 22amps at 70psi). So I’ve bought a 46amp capable Delphi fuse holder and 30amp capable Deutsch connector also arrived today. Just need to order some 12AWG Raychem wire, and the new pump setup will be complete.

I’d guess a ring land

Oooooooooh 993’s....... don’t get me going again Andrew

Im not really sure what he’s on about here. Base timing, as far as I’m aware, should be set to 15deg at idle. What ECU is in the car? ***edit, just seen it’s an AEM..... if all ends up being well and the oil burns off, I’d strongly recommend you get that map checked!***

Don’t worry about it Matt.... mikey has been banned for spouting off a fair number of times. In terms of your engine, nothing really changes from your approach to it. Take it for a spirited blast and see if it burns off, otherwise further tests are gunna be needed

Matt, how hard have you driven the car since going to a catch can setup? Have you got it hot enough to burn off any residual oil that may have lined the exhaust system? How much oil can you see in the Plenum (remove the balance bar and have a peak through the port)

I’d like to know how given, as per the OP, the PCV’s have been removed from the car.....

Time for a leak down test

Welcome along chief

Looks good Andrew. Provision for a mechanical fuel pump drive is an interesting idea

Finished my PS pot resto today. It’s not quite a perfect match to the OR colour, but it’s really close. It’s only a rattle can job, using Halfords “Matte Military Green” covered with a ProXL 2K clear coat. I’m pretty pleased with the result A vast improvement on what it used to look like!

Can’t remember how old your car is, but if it’s pre series 4 it’s likely to either be a dry solder in the speedo gauge PCB or the speed sensor is on its way out. S4 onwards they changed the PCB’s to ‘on board’ resistors. While a dry solder is still a possibility, it seems to be a less documented issue on the later style speedo’s There’s deffo a couple of threads here re speed sensor and there’s a couple of good write ups on TT net and the aus forum about the solders on the pcb

Nope. The remote filter head without an NPT port is around £60-80 for a Moroso part and the tree adapter is about the same, so £120-160. A thermostatic filter head alone is around the £220 mark, BDE kit is £130ish. As I’ve just forked out for a set of Camshafts, that extra £200 will come in handy

Two reasons really 1) I don’t entirely trust the bypass valves in the filters. I’ve got not evidence as to why, just a gut feeling thing 2) Because when you start throwing in the BDE tree replacement and a quality thermostatic box and a quality remote filter head with a built in 1/8npt pressure port, your at nearly £400 before I even buy the -10 lines and AN fittings. It starts to get very expensive for something that the OE oil tree and tree adapter and remote filter head can do. If the car was going to spend a reasonable time on track, 3 or 4 track days a year, then it’d make sense to go to a thermostatic full flow system, but in reality I’ll probably only manage 1 maybe 2 track events a year, and the current setup has proven itself capable of managing oil temps sufficiently when I’ve been on track previously

That’s one potential space I’m considering. I just need to work out of it can get the -10 braided lines through a gap somewhere. Normally people go do a “full flow” setup which would removes the OE oil cooler lines and the -10 lines would run in their place. I’m not going for a full flow setup from a variety of reasons, so it means I can’t gain the extra space by removing the Oe oil cooler lines

While it’s an option, I’m trying to declutter the engine bay (which is why I relocated the alarm siren), so I think having the filter in the bay would just take up a space I’ve just cleared out

Happy Birthday Jim

The FedEx fairy dropped by today and delivered my new AC condenser and clutch fork boot I’ll probably wait unti the engine is back in before I fit the condenser. It should make life a little easier with the auxillary belts, and I still need to finalise where I’m going to mount the remote oil filter The shopping list only has a couple more parts left on it, but I should be able to sort those out prior the delivery of the engine

Looking like this could be the largest gatherings of Z’s at a standalone Z meet for a VERY VERY long time!

1: Funkysi (Simon Parsons) 13th and 14th 2: nickz32 (Nick Johnson) 13th and 14th

Hmmm maybe........ hadn’t thought of that

Managed a few little bits and bobs today whole packaging up some parts I’ve sold. First I relocated the alarm siren out of sight by the drivers side SMIC. Had to redo the complete hash of a wiring job by the company who installed the system (I mean who wraps a single wire with black electrical tape!?!) Annoyingly it means I’m left with 3 holes where the siren had been mounted under the bonnet.... will have a ponder with how to rectify this Also decided to start a quick refurb of my PS reservoir as it was showing corrosion through the paint. After rubbing the factory paint off, there was a fair bit of hidden corrosion and pitting that’ll need tackling I’ve also been pondering where to mount my remote oil filter head. Due to the size of the EPR baffled sump, you cannot mount and oil filter on the OE filter tree. I’ve decided that I don’t want to go to a full flow oil cooler setup as I like having the safety of a bypass valve should the filter become unexpectedly blocked (bypass valve prevents oils stavation should this happen), so rather than using the BDE kit, I’ll use an adapter on the oil tree, -10 braided line with AN10 fittings, and a remote filter head. One option is to put the filter head under the nose section, but it appears that routing such a large bore line past the rad and IC pipes may be problematic. Another option is down by the bulkhead by the steering column, but again, it’s difficult to know if I’ll have the space without the engine in the bay.

Or that horrid for T-Bird Ford re released..... hideous

My whoopsie arrived!