greg

no pump can be done without removal of cambelt only downside is your for there and able to do the cambelt,secondly you will have lots of coolant come out of the waterpump housing when you remove it,and this will cover the camblet which in turn down the line could cause premature wear to the cambelt my 2p worth

cool,wasnt a dig at smithy just the sgp pulley!,unorthodox is far better quality IMO

i should imagine the heads are warped badly hence 0compression also the stock gauge is inactive until engine temps exceed 110degrees,hence the importnace of fitting aftermarket gauges,one of the best mods you can do IMO

thats fine,and should raise with engine rpm up to approx 60-70psi@WOT

the only downside with a 1 piece,is if it shatters/snaps and it happend to drop to the floor your car may make a good pole vault,iv heard of it happening :wack: there is a company in newbury that do 1piece props etc do a search for a company in newbury,not sure of name hence brief explaination :)

poor engine seals :eek:

there you go then,for future info the vtc lead is the white lead one goes pass side other goes driverside,theres only 1 white lead so obvious to the eye

unorthodox is even better :) smithy uses the sgp IIRC and i found i had to file the cutout key to get the woodruff to slide over,also the unorthodox has been machine balanced and has drill marks where it has been balanced within spec although only true way of getting in balanced to your engine is to have it checked with flywheel,crank,pulley with an engineer

warped heads,check you havn't melted the coilpacks in to the head,seen one of them recently! very low compression will make the car difficult to start,and normally goes in toe with warped heads,fingers crossed the heads are not cracked but coolant in the exhaust could be a cracked block/head drain the sump and radiator check for water in oil oil in water etc and obviously comp test,if the car starts then you could use a combustion tester on the radiator but a comp test will give you a definative answer!

nice one si,always msn matey :cool: and maybe some motocross :duffer: love you to bud,heart of gold but fook me can put a steak away see ya soon cheers dude :duffer: ta mate,yep can be a bitchy here!lol,also because you have a clicky group if one starts the others jump in like crack heads,take it easy bud i might come along to the meets,but il pop over and see you paul and kids soon with kath and kids no all the best to you to mate,your a top bloke aswell,il catch ya soon no doubt its in the loft,il bring it to the next jae :wack: :duffer: look forward to it mate,be nice to catch up,with both of you's if you miss me to much bud you knows where i am :duffer: cheerz bud,be good to meet you at a meet maybe next jae? glad to here it mark,see ya soon maybe!cheerz bud we got msn bud,and be nice to catch up soon fella yep would be nice mate, msn is there i think wozzer maybe arranging another trip to germany/holland,but worst case scenario,the next meet in the middle hopefully take care mr chris c is always up for a laugh,remember that rave party in france/belgium was a good larf,another trip to nurburgring is on the cards perhaps?take care,il still be lurking checking for events :cool: il still be lurking,cheers mate,we will meet go to the next jae or next big event and we can meet up for a beer and a natter :) club dont need me we have some knowledgable members on here,if you really are stuck email greggoldrick@aol.com or greg300zx@hotmail.com cheerZ il be seeing you for certain matey yeh you only live up the road ffs christ you pop round when you want mate,visa versa cheers for the reply guys means alot

remember the heat if its to hot it may retard the timing and chuck the car in to safety mode,take it out on a cool morning and check then,if this is the case you can either check the det sensor for a break in the circuit,as your running boost jets and the wastegate actuators are connected the only way is to bypass the circuit via fitting a resistor inbetween the wires it will then tell the ecu all is well,do a search on how to,or if i see ya il give you a hand,failing that you could fit a bost controller and disconnect the wastegate actuators,but check the above first,good thing with controllers,if it is to hot you can ajust boost rather than having one level of boost which is either on/off non controllable. greg

to all who have helped over the years,met some ****ing top people on here,and when i bought my 300 a few years ago,i came here and alot of people helped me out and would drop there misses to drive down the m4 and lend a hand :duffer: people who know me!know that iv had a passion for my car i spent my entire days working til 2in the morning spending 10k+ on making here a thing of beauty!when the time come and i could no longer afford to run her,it broke my heart to have to sell and still does NOW once i sold it,i kind of felt that community that helped me had gone,and when i was invited to meets,it was hard to stomach the fact i no longer had my 300 and would make my excuses to not be able to make it! :( :headvswal since working at ztech i have felt pressurised in coming on here,for example if someone cant get hold of ryan,who do they ask oh GREG now i have removed the signature not for any reason of previous complaint made,but because i cannot be arsed to answer everyone and be a fooking messanger :rolleyes: not my place not my problem! iv had some bad luck over the last year,i havny put this post up for no sympaphy at all,more of a thankyou to some of the great people i have met you know who you are :cool: love you guys! i have let my mouth slip a few time mainly with frustration,and pressure,there are some arseholes on here aswell who tend to spoil it for longtime members,i bought my car 3years ago when this forum was full of enthusiasm and good will,now alot of people who were here when i came on have gone,theres still a big group of people that are sound,and then you have the clicky group :headvswal well all in all thanks again,and all the good friends iv met il hopefully see again,wether it be on msn or for a :duffer: 10-4

just to let anyone who knows gio? and havn't heard from him for a while,he came and had some work done a few weeks ago,and i mentioned to mike people have wondered where he is,well hes fine just really busy,so busy he cant get online,but i told him i would let everyone know hes fine! :) well folks il see you all around :duffer: greg

its not essential,remove everything other than the a/c then when your lifting the engine you can get more room to the 14mm bolt that passes through the back of the compressor!thats the only awkward bolt really use a 14mm raatchet spanner for ease when you can get your hand in there!then you have the same bolt but facing the front,and 2 underneath facing upwards,you can then drop the pump out of the way if you have none or very little aircon you can just remove the 2hoses going to the condessor then you can pull them out of the way and pull the engine with condensor attached greg

its the space you have to work with is the problem,but doable,unless its an emergancy i wouldnt sweat doing 1 !when you should replace as a pair in an ideal world,whilst your there and all that PM me if you want any further info on removal etc

the profiles are slightly differant,but in a realistic world notice a differance and are you really going to pull the engine if your soley going to do a manual conversion :smash: to add you can use a braided line and run direct from master-slave rather than using the over engineered pipework that nissan used much easier and saves alot of time also if your splicing the inhibiter for the starter instead of removing the wing,remove o/s wheel and undo bolts to wheel arch liner,you can then gain access you can avoid using a seperated intake manifold,and instead take a feed of the brake servo- for clutch booster saves a total time of around 3hours

no you dont there is the assy control box on the auto which is bolted in place,once removed and pulled out the way,fit pedal in to bulkhead using the same placement and bolt

hope you had a good-un :duffer:

see this is what happens,you buy a 300 spend a fortune and the only place you can afford to shop is lidl,no more sainsburys PMSL nowt wrong with lidl just to add,i bu a few things in there myself :cool:

if they have no ajustment then there is no ajustment so only option is to replace with half decent nissan oem or go for new setup,what else can you do ?

i like it,but looks a bit out of proprotion at the rear,lower valance and it would look good IMO

just got back and covered the whole of cornwall not see 1 zed :smash: where are you all?

looks the mutts bud hats off :duffer:

good old shunter :dance: see you soon bud off to st ives for the week :)

remove the A/C the condesor rad sits behind the cooling rad,so removing this will get better airflow to your cooling rad,keeping temps down and also shedding a bit of weight,via removing pipework,cannnister,condesor,A/C pump IMO i would also go SMIC rather than FMIC again restricting more flow to the cooling radiator,and side mounts are easier to fit,and IMO is a better design on a v engine. water wetter again has been proven to keeping temps down on the cooling systym,available from demon tweeks,and millers also do a good inhibitor if your removing the engine at any point as kirbz said cleaning all the water channels on the block is a good idea,especially on an engine that has seen very little coolant in its life :rolleyes: plenum bypass this will then rule out the chance of leaks under the plenum that can go un-noticed!its a much more reliable way of feeding the turbos coolant and making the over complicated vg30 more managable in the future! other than that make sure the coolant is correct and check daily,also carry out a 60k service including thermostat,short hoses,water pump etc keep a check of your viscous fan,if overheating in traffic,check the viscosity of the fan when cold it should have some resistance when cold if it spins freely then it may need replacing prevention is sometimes better than adding a remedy HTH