greg

ffs :bow: they need a bypass round newbury no fooker wants to go there :)

dime bar,dime bar[sarcastic dumb nut voice] oi nutta :smw:

if your car runs well and is not loosing coolant i would not worry about HG problems signs of HG failure are as follows most common hard starting/running rough like missing cylinders lack of power loss of coolant oil in radiator/water in oil overheating after short periods,either airlock/lack of coolant/HG failure testing the following can be done via a)compression test low figures may mean cracked head/s or HG b)combustion leakage test will show up weither heads are leaking gases in to cooling systym possibly causing high pressure in the systym

no it means the engine has rarely seen coolant in its life and with just plain water running through the block,i should imagine the inside of the engine has lots of rusty deposits,best thing to do,is remove radiator and place hosepipe through it block bottom off and shake it,make sure radiator runs clean with water,and all crud removed. also attach hose to upper intake pipe on head and flush through you a special cleaner which will break down the rust inside the engine,have a look in halfords or do a search,you will normally get a kit with 2 stages flush rad i think its called.once engine runs clean re-fit radiator,and replace with approx 3-4ltrs of coolant and rest in water 50/50%ratio run up to temp as matrix is bypassed you should have very little airlocks as most airlocks commonly sit between h.matrix and engine,just make sure the hose you have used for the bypass has not kinked,otherwise rather than the normal cycle of feed-return it wont return meaning possibility of hot spots in the engine/overheating greg

yes you do buddy,mark where the prop splits with tipex on both joins that way you know the reposition and it makes sure the prop is within balance DIY mate if you have any probs give me a shout :duffer:

can be done with gearbox out,fiddly but do-able

things to remember passenger turbo is fiddly but not difficult,O/S turbo is almost impossible so just get the engine out make sure the gasket is in place on the oil return tube bottom of turbo housing,otherwise it will leak oil very fast whilst your there replace the small hose that goes up behind bellhousing,this is one of the most common water leaks so if it looks suspect replace only tricky bit is getting to the 13mm nuts as you have the nut braces covering them to stop them spinning and working loose,with lack of room its tricky bending them back over the nut,just take your time and patience will surfice

remember the lack of room you face and torqeing nuts is almost impossible with engine in situ,its a case of ****ing tight TBH

bit belated,but happy birthday dave :duffer:

remove downpipe exhaust section's remove heatshield which covers propshaft lift complete propshaft and check for excessive play! also check as said above^^the rubber inside the coupling tends to split with heat and wear if so replace centre support bearing,follow guide on how to,its not to bad a job to DIY if it checks out ok,check gearbox mount,a lot of these are now worn and are shown by supoorting gearbox and dropping the 6 14mm bolts on the mount then check for play,but mostly its prop related greg

happy birthday bud :duffer:

check the egr feeds to the plenum,if you have removed egr pipes and refitted either they are not tight enough and leaking or a small bit of sealant may be required,failing that pop up and il have a look over :)

congratulations to all of you si!!

your welcome,as far as im aware you have spoken to ryan on the phone :rolleyes: oh i know your a large bloke who likes his ale,as you said i dont know you,and dont care either :duffer: cheerZ

auto and manual is differant na and TT is differant,as you have no recirc on the na one,but could be taken of something else im sure

well you could always pop down bud,cup a tea and all that,im sure you will be welcome :wack: :rolleyes:

yep

thats your opinion and your a :xxx: to :smw: secondly if a trader wishes to pay his subs then your problem is?,i did not notice the post generally because like many others can not be arsed/or have time to come on,however i do because i have been here long enough and if i can help i will.companys such as smithy who has time on his hands to sit infront of the pc on a daily basis thats fine thats what they do,if you feel ryan is wasting the forums time beeing on there take it up with the moderators,many members who have had work carried out @ ztech will be happy,some maybe un happy etc,thats life and as much as you like to do your best,there will always be a couple of bad ones,off subject here as you can see!point being contact numbers and addresses are cleary on the website,internet,and traders section,so if your unhappy with unanswered posts pick up the phone,send a letter etc :rolleyes:

:p :D

there he goes again :xxx: oh look,its smithy with his daggar out at ryan again,it has ****all to do with ^^you just have a problem with ryan,because you got funny over ryan getting parts much much cheaper than you could supply FFS get a life,i can count another 3 traders who think your a nob and have had experianced similar problems! rant over

yes

engine out next time though eh :wack: :)

fook me waxing backs,girlracer forums,TBH i always thought you were a faggot PMSL although nowt wrong with a faggot they go well with mash and gravy :bow:

just take the engine out.by the time you remove the intake manifold and cam covers the engine would be out :wack: besides its almost impossible trying to remove the manifold in situ,infact i bet you wouldnt

looks good eddie! :duffer: