ruishy1

even the stock intercoolers are rubbish on a standard engine. After hard driving for 10 mins yesterday my intercoolers were very hot to the touch. Ive got a pair of bigger intercooler but i need to make some piping up before i can fit them and dont have the time yet

sorry i was on my phone at the time and it looked like alot more was blocked at the top :) Strap a couple of small 8 inch fans to the rear to cool them in traffic, will always help !

i would modify your ducts mate, otherwise your wasting part of those nice SMIC's. I would cut the top part off and use some thin metal and rivets to extend it, easy to do even if you have no experience with sheet metal. Im buying this to replace mine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330936063497?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1784wt_1199

i never actually thought about youtube lol The video i made is not as good as those mate, as im trying to hold my ipod and weld at the same time !

seriously that deserves free subscribed status for life. Legend

I like to help where i can mate

Im down the unit tomorrow mate, il make a very quick video on a good way to weld and can email it to you. It wont be great quality but it will cover all the basics and should hopefully give you the start you need to get practicing

you push the weld mate.

not much mate, when adjusting always do it in small increments :)

turn the power down a smidge and move a tad faster would have things looking alot better

im sure there would be enough people on here close enough to help out, tbh a manual conversion is not that much more work over a gearbox change. jaikai on here did it on his driveway

i would manualise it if i was you, there is a complete kit in the for sale section for 450, add another 100 quid for misc shiz and do it over a weekend with some mates, its not the worst job in the world ( so ive been told, never dont it on a 300 but have on other cars, its relatively easy)

so far ivm halfway through the 2.5 inch intercooler pipe test and mungzy is claiming the 2.5 doesnt provide any benefit....

ive got a cam cover leak onto the passengers side turbo, cant be arsed fixing it though

i usually weld a bead right round when i do it, but its time consuming ( i dont lke spotting as it can allow leaks) found a brand new tool for 150 quid so if all the bits ive got for sale go i can order it and hoses etc. i just seen the price of the american 2.5 pipe kit ! wtf thats a ripoff, its about 50 quid worth of pipe in there !

So youdone it Jimmer ? as i said im looking for real world epxerience. Ive read so much BS on the net it gets to the point you cant distinguish whats real ! I may give it a go as my intercoolers have 2.5 inch inlets/outlets. I just need to buy a beading tool so pipes dont pop off !

remind me never to accept food from you !

quoted for truth ! Your going to struggle to get a zed engine in and out in a shift especially if its not been out before, plus all the problems that will arise from disturbing all those fragile electrical connections

does this make any real difference when not chasing silly numbers ? I was just thinking that for the price of a couple of metres of alloy pipe and a day or two with the welder out etc i could improve the breathing of my car. Anyone here actually done it or is it all internet rumours ?

wow thats some nice numbers there from a basically stock engine !

be good to finally get to the bottom of the problem and get you back into a Zed mate

no worries :)

thats a gtr, which is 324mm discs with larger brembo calipers. The Gts-t ones use 296mm discs and smaller calipers :)

BTW for a cheap and easy bake upgrade fit R33 GTS-T calipers and discs, its only 16mm more in Dia. but the calipers are also alloy so lighter. I fitted them to mine ( got them FOC from the r33 i broke for my cousin) and instantly felt a difference. You can get entire front setups for under 100 quid inlcuding good used discs and pads

putting vents in the bonnet wont really help much in the way of cooling, you need to look at a pressure diagram of a zed and work out where the high and low pressure areas are, and design scoops and vents in the right areas so the cool air flows through the bay and doesnt get trapped and become stagnant. Titanium heat wrap on the turbos, manifolds and piping will VASTLY reduce underbonnet temps. I used it and even after a spirited drive you were able to touch the downpipe ( it was hot but still able to touch for a good few seconds)