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W1NG

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by W1NG

  1. A few things to note, the P4 processor used is pretty old, a 531 chip which is now about a 1yr 1/2 old and with the specs they mention it's prob using onboard sound/gfx. It's definetly not worth over £500. And a little background search on the company brings up quite a bit of bad feedback as well as the fact that they are spamming some people's email adresses. Who the hell signs up for a 3 year contract on something like this anyway!? :wack:
  2. Just back from the short drive to make sure my thermo/water pump wasnt out and it's fine! Was an airlock. Cheers for everyone's input on my problem! This place is feeling a little bit more like the club it use to now! Now I need to fix my high idle problem! :wack:
  3. I haven't really checked to see if the heater matrix was working or not as I never have a need to use it! But I did turn it on when I took my little short drive and didnt notice any hot air coming from it, will check again later to make sure. Will add that to my list of checks when I get into the garage later on!
  4. Wasnt overheating at all until the coolant hoses at the back of the engine made a nice pink fountain out of my brand new coolant! :wack: Never checked the aux fan as by the time it started over heating I turnt the car off. I take it this is the black coloured fan up front where the air filter is?
  5. I know the stock gauge isnt any good but right now that's all I have until I can get an aftermarket one installed. I guess I better get the front up, fill up, drive and see if I can get rid of the air lock then if that is it. Can I assume if that doesnt fix it my thermo needs replacing?
  6. Not done it yet though that was done before the hoses at the back of the engine died. I guess I should get a new thermo, water pump etc and go from there?
  7. After my coolant hoses decided to pop a hole I had them all replaced and did a plenum by pass. Just took the car out today after doing all that and had topped up the coolant, but I still have the same over heating problem, or at least the stock temp gauge says so. Soooooooooo, anyone got any ideas on what could be the problem? Bear in mind that I've replaced all the damn coolant hoses at the back of the engine where the leak first started and there is no apparent leakage any where, yet. Time to replace the water pump maybe?
  8. Been a while but from what I remember, the controls are bolted to the frame/seat, though having said that the frame should be removeable leaving the controls on the seat. The motor to move the seat foward and back should be on the frame so if your just getting the seat alone then it'll just be like a manual one. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure I'm right about this. Personally I wouldnt buy a series 2 passenger seat if it didnt have the frame as well!
  9. From what I can remember if you have the subframe for it as well and the conenctor all you really need is to get a feed off of some where. Best to take it from the driver's electric feed though hiding the wiring for it isnt going to be easy without ripping up all the carpet. The seat belt clip is separate from the frame and I'm sure the controls was also part of the frame too.
  10. Maybe, but if you dont use the rear seats you can fold it flat and get a bigger boot!
  11. It was running on 5! Then I found out that the connector for the fuel rail wasnt plugged in. :headvswal In any case I've now gotta add some nice new connectors on my list to buy as most of mine are crap, brittle and doesnt have the metal clip. Thanks for all the suggestions and help! Now, time to get rid of that rattle and get meself a new accelerator cable!
  12. Here's some pictures of the apexi megaphone before I decided to get rid of it.
  13. I think I may have a slight vacumn leak as I can hear some sort of whining noise near the back of the engine. Though if I slightly increase the revs would this make the vacumn more noticeable as in it changes it's tone to a more higher pitched one prob due to more air running through it? I'm sure my coil connections are fine though those are on my list of to buy new connectors and replace. I've managed to get the car to idle at around 600RPM right now but can't get it up any more.
  14. Just back from the garage to do a quick look around. The temp sensors and sender was cleaned before I had to do the plenum pull to replace the water hoses. Fuel lines are definetly in the right way around and all fuel clamps are brand new and I made sure they where tight enough before I shoved them back in. EGR pipes have been tighted and are fine. The only vacumn problem I can think of is me putting something in the wrong place but I'm pretty sure that I have all hoses in the right place, I'll get some pictures just in case though. One thing I have noticed though is that I'm getting a weird buzzing noise if I turn the TPS clockwise. I take it something is a bit wrong there...! :cry:
  15. After pulling the plenum and putting it all back together I seem to have a very rough idle to the point where the battery light comes fading on and off as the car tries to keep itself alive! Brand new tested battery by the way! Anyhow I was trying to adjust the idle from the IAA valve but it doesnt seem to do anything to my base idle which is sitting somewhere around 480-500rpm! Could I assume that my IAA is a bit dead? And my car stinks of petrol... very badly! :cry:
  16. I've figured it out! After checking the connectors near the IAA where right it still didnt work. So I decided to follow all the power cables back from the battery and errmmm... found a connector that wasnt plugged in. :wack: Feel a bit stupid now for not checking every connector before I tried putting a battery in. :p Now all I have to do is sort out the rough idle! :cry: One problem after another! :( Thanks for the suggestions!
  17. Two connectors on the IAA valves? I guess I should swap those two around and see what happens, was really just plugging them in to which ever one it will reach to! I didnt really mark them when I did it which was quite stupid, will try it in the morning and see what happens! Battery is definetly hooked up the right way around! There is absolutely no power going through the car at all! It's like as if it's got a dead battery installed! :cry: Which it doesnt! :mad:
  18. Right, I've just finished putting the plenum back together again and shoved a battery in it hoping to drive the bugger again! Only problem is the car isnt getting any power from the battery at all. I've tried 3 batteries already one of them being brand new and tested before I shoved it in and yet no electrics! :cry: Could it be that one of the cables I could have plugged up in the wrong place that could be the problem? Also it has a Cat 2 immobiliser on it.
  19. :wack: Mine still aint even on the road for it to mix with the cold/wet weather! Thought it might be later on today! :dance: Another thing I would like to add is that we Zed owners should really have two set of tyres, one for summer driving and a winter set. This way we can all be safer in our cars! I dont wanna seeeeeeee any more crashed Zeds this year! :cry:
  20. W1NG replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    If it's a J Spec car then it will have an electric connector. Apparently it' some feature that helps you from getting your clothes caught or some crap like that. Just take the door card apart and disconnect the electrical connector on the seat belt.
  21. As attached, download and unzip both into the same directory. It's in two parts due to upload size limitations.
  22. They should be the pipes coming off from the AIV system. Just block them up and dump the whole AIV system too!
  23. I could but I just wanted to see if I could move the thing somewhere else so both pods look balanced. :tongue:
  24. Do you mean that if I removed the hazard switch itself the indicators wouldnt work? As my one doesnt have the hazard switch and the indicators do still work. I dont really see why I cant just rewire and relocate it, using a new non-OEM hazard switch.
  25. Being fed up with the stupid hazard light not working the way it should due to a tiny bit of plastic breaking (aint that always the case), I thought why not get a nice new switch and move it some where else where it might actually work for once. Anyone done this before? Any diagrams on how to do so?

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