W1NG

Was this sometime after 8ish in the evening? Having said that mine isnt black! :D

1) Olliezx, elephant.co.uk, £650 TPFT (22, 5yncb, Jap TT, countryside) 2) chutney, heritage.co.uk £485 FC (31 2 yrs ncb, jap TT auto...rural) 3) Naf68, UK TT auto, Hastings online, £280 TPFT full NCB, Watford 4) alex300, elephant, £550 TPFT (25, 4yrs ncb, jspec N/A, cambs, rural) 5) SkylineDave, A-Plan, £789 FC (30, 8 yrs ncb, Jspec TT, Leic) 6) diddy_p, A-Plan, £950 FC All mods declared (23, 2 years NCB, UK Auto), Harrow Weald 7) sb007, Adrian Flux, £530 FC (30, 10yrs NCB, UK TT, Birmingham) Mods Declared 8) Craig David, A-plan, £450-ish FC, (32, full NCB, Japanese NA). 9) Xav2075, autotrader insurance, £465.09 FC (32, 4 NCB, 3 Points, Jap SWB TT) 10) BazzaJG, Livingstones Warman, 780 FC (35, Classic/Agreed Value 20k all mods declared, Manchester) 11) b19rks. Houghtons £424 fuuly comp classic policy 6000 miles a year max (30 NCB not applicable J spec Auto TT) 12) pete2407.Haughtons £350 FC classic policy 7000 miles max 46 NCB NA J spec Auto TT 13) Fonz300zx Norwich Union £315 Full Com 63 10years PNCB Jap N/A Auto Croydon. 14) shrek. Admiral £727 TPFT (21yrs old, 6 points, 2 accidents, no ncb, uk spec) 15) Apache - Norton - £220 - Fully Comp incl breakdown cover and legal protection (42, Classic Policy+Agreed value, 3pts, 3k miles/yr, Import) 16) james funge, sky insurance, £466 fc all mods declared, 5 yrs ncb swb man tt slicktop 17) Wing, Carole Nash (Classic), £390, all mods declared, no ncb, Jap Spec TT 2+2 Age ordered: 21 £727 shrek. Admiral £727 TPFT (21yrs old, 6 points, 2 accidents, no ncb, uk spec) 22 £650 Olliezx, elephant.co.uk, £650 TPFT (22, 5yncb, Jap TT, countryside) 23 £950 diddy_p, A-Plan, £950 FC All mods declared (23, 2 years NCB, UK Auto), Harrow Weald 25 £550 alex300, elephant.co.uk, £550 TPFT (25, 4yrs ncb, jspec N/A, cambs, rural) 30 £424 b19rks. Houghtons £424 fuuly comp classic policy 6000 miles a year max (30 NCB not applicable J spec Auto TT) 30 £530 sb007, Adrian Flux, £530 FC (30, 10yrs NCB, UK TT, Birmingham) Mods Declared 30 £789 SkylineDave, A-Plan, £789 FC (30, 8 yrs ncb, Jspec TT, Leic) 31 £485 chutney, heritage.co.uk £485 FC (31 2 yrs ncb, jap TT auto...rural) 32 £450 Craig David, A-plan, £450-ish FC, (32, full NCB, Japanese NA). 32 £465 Xav2075, Autotrader Insurance, £465.09 FC (32, 4 NCB, 3 Points, Jap SWB TT) 35 £780 BazzaJG, Livingstones Warman, 780 FC (35, Classic/Agreed Value 20k all mods declared, Manchester) 38 £280 Naf68, Hastings Online, UK TT auto, £280 TPFT full NCB, Watford 42 £220 Apache - Norton - £220 - Fully Comp (42, Classic Policy+Agreed value, 3pts, 3k miles/yr, Import) 46 £350 pete2407. Haughtons £350 FC classic policy 7000 miles max 46 NCB NA J spec Auto TT 63 £315 Fonz300zx Norwich Union £315 Full Com 63 10years PNCB Jap N/A Auto Croydon. XX £466 james funge, Sky Insurance, £466 fc all mods declared, 5 yrs ncb swb man tt slicktop

As long as the lines off toe EGR solenoid is as my second attachment it should be fine. This is just from the research I have done though! So if anything does go wrong please dont blame me for it! :wack: If you plan to remove the EGR aparently you just cap off the lines that are left behind! Something I'll prob do at a later stage.

I've found what I'm looking for now! On the driver side you should just have one solenoid if you had removed all of the AIV piping/solenoid. One of the lines goes to the balance pipe/little black box near the side of the engine bay, just plug that directly to the balance bar. After that you are left with what my little drawing which is the EGR solenoid. The bottom pipe on the solenoid goes under the driver side throttle body, the middle pipe connects to the vac line coming off of the EGR itself while the top connects to a line going to the driver's side turbo pipe (black pipe below the throttle body). And I think that's it!

I need to check to see if my vaccumn lines are plugged up correctly to the EGR valve that is left over when you remove the AIVs. I know the boost sensor goes directly to the balance bar so that is done. I'm now left with three other vac lines:- 1. one to the EGR, 2. one from under the throtle body on the driver side 3. one comes off of one of the turbo/intercooler pipe on the driver side Now, which one of these lines gets plugged into which pipe on the EGR valve? Top, middle or bottom!? Strike it lucky!

Are you 100% sure it's that hose that is leaking? I had a leak behind there and it was one of the smaller pipes which cools the engine. I suggest you do a water by pass and replace all the hoses while your at it. Saves you from having your engine over heating because of those stupid hoses!

Looks like someone on the forum here! :D Spotted you going off the A13 over the weekend.

Emissions are tested reguardless, just it's based on different set of rules if it's before 1992. Mine failed on hydrocarbons as well as it was way off the scale by a good 5x or so. :mac1: Having said that the CO2 was well below what was allowed! :D Still doesnt meant I can drive it until it's sorted. :cry:

Chrome nob and handle? :rofl:

Passenger side footwell. Pull up al the carpet, there should be a wooden board there, unscrew that and you'll see the ECU. It's the one with the big plug which should be coloured blue. Unscrew that and replace with new ECU.

Doesnt a auto ECU work as well in a manual?

Yup, that's right. If plugging it up to the body doesnt work then just plug it direct to the battery like mine. Just dont flash the high beams with the low beams off. Like I've said before, the only time you'll be doing that is during the day! In which case a nice hand gesture will do fine!

Try not to flash with the lights off! :p I would do the more complicated way but I can't be bothered for now and as it is, it works well. I dont see any situation where I would flash my high beam while my lights are off anyway. Just use a hand gesture! :hyper:

My one ended up like that when I had to pull a wire out from the ignition barrell so that I could take my key out when the turbo timer was running. Did ask to seee if there was only solutions to fix it but no one seemed to know otherwise! So just lived with it! :D

If you wired it up to the normal plug, when you switch to high beam it will turn your low beam off. Using the + on the plug and grounding the low beam to your battery stops the low beam from going off when flashing/turning on your high beam. Well, it does so on mine and it saves my HID from dying early!

All I did was ground the low beam to my battery. Works a treat and a lot easier to do then the wiring thingy above!

Bump! :rolleyes:

Your inbox is full!

Get some help, that boot is bloody heavy and doing the fitting of new struts yourself is going to be a bitch without any help!

And so do I! Which would have solved your problems if you had popped around! :P

I've got a pump if you need it! I'm only down the road from where you are!

You lot stop driving around near me! It's making my Z look common! Not that I drive it that much! :mac1:

Haaa, good on you! Get out there and show them who's the best!

It's so you can put kiddy swings on it!

True, but it never worked when I too well until I grounded the HIDs to the batteries...! Having said that I haven't done the mod, just plugged the + in the usual postive light cable and grounded the other to the battery.