Coolq

What is the yellowtipped sensor, besides the water temp sensor on the front water hose. having a slight issue that with it connected, the revs are high, with them off it drops about 4-500rpm.... but no other changes?

had an e36 m3 evo myself, amazing car. would have a clean one over a clean Z anyday, superiour power looks handling, and if u care, MUCH better fuel economy :-) the best one is Estorial blue, 2dr with rainbow spoiler... :-)

the thing is, im not looking for 'not that loud' as that still means its loud, i want something quiet, so that it doesnt sound like a racecar, and sounds more like a normal car. basically simiar level to the stock system which is very quiet.

currently have a twin turbo Z that i love dearly, but im seeking some advice on how to get a quiet exhaust or which one is the best. currently have japspeed decat downpipe that run into a silencer box, then into a backbox each side with 5 inch exits. ( yes i know they're huge) i do have silencer bungs, which take 80% of the noise away, but with them in i cannot run high boost for safety reasons. (backpressure etc) now i'd like a system that can deliver all the power i need but without the noise, do any of you have one like this? Hoping to change the backboxes only rather than the full system....

shame, the silver bit is the best part. probabily wont get them now :-(

ah damm, thats the part i like the most. why dont thet fit?

lol, ive been looking at these for ages, and will mount under the sterio using lukes mount bracket, your setup looks as mine will. once i know ALL THE BITS NEEDED. but hopefully luke will sort that out.

Basically, once i know exactly what i need im going to get the drift iriduim gauges from Z centre. Boost gauge Water temp gauge Oil pressure gauge. now other than the instruments themselves, what all else will i need/need to do to get each wired up and working correctly?

dibs on the sandwich plate. i want it.

ashleydc , this was before the matrix bypass. ive reconnected the pipes now and the car doesnt overheat, i think it had an airlock when i made the matrix bypass. its fine now, but just steams up the car, JIMMER is there anyway i can test for head failure, or possibly can i contact you for some advice, as you seem to know lots about these engines, and im in dyer help.

i like it alot, how much did they charge to do the plenium, want it done myself.

cherrrrrrrrrs.

no oil or dipstick discolouration, is there any way to rule out headgasket issues? the car starts and runs fine. idles stready, no smoke from exhausts, and oil preasure is fine.

the car seems to be overheating quite, alot to be honest, lasts longer with the heater blowers on, but with them off 5-10 mins drive and the needle starts going up.no air locks or water leaks anywhere though.... im puzzled,

yep bled it many a times.

smash the windscreen, climb in then claim on insurance excess for a new one.

Not sure if this is normal, or someone could help me with the issue, but my car is building alot of pressure in the front water hose, so much so that it gets bent out of shape is rock hard and the car overheats, now im not sure if this is normal for the hose to get rock hard. hence this post, now if this is not normal, might it be the thermostat causing both problems? no water leaks, radiator is new, and heater matrix has been bypassed as it began leaking, also there are no kinks in the matrix bypass pipe causing and loss of water cycle.

was supposed to have mine done this week, but the snow prevented the guy getting here, so have to wait till January :-( i wont be using it much, but just dont want it to overheat any more, its done it about 9 times, in the last week or so.

perfect Groover. massive help.

sorted now, thanks people

those are the ones from the metal pipes that i ment before, will get on it now. appreciated.

thanks Tudor.

i cant see anything back there, but the two which go into metal pipes, then one right beside then brake fluid that goes into the bulkhead. im crap at this stuff. anyone got a pic of the correct two?

i think ive seen them theyre close together and both face the driver correct, looks like a metal pipe with a rubber hose coming off each, basically just remove the rubber hose then connect the metal pipes together with a new rubbber hose? is that right? sorry for being dumb, but there are a few back there and want to make sure i get the correct pipes.

How do i do a heater matrix bypass, mine is squirting water and steam into the car and causing the engine to overheat. HELP ME:cursing: