jap.slapper

GTS-t

Mitsi GTO *not RWD but still got power*

Yeah, figured you were....but I do think an FD would make a nice change....then once the rotary experience gets boring, go and buy a nice big V8 or V10

How about an FD3S

I was thinking Z32, but an S body would be a nice little runabout

I know what you want, what are those cars that Nissan used to make? You know the ones, 300 brake, RWD.....no it's gone sorry :confused1:

Woah, whoah, woah let's not over egg the pudding, he ain't that great..........have you tasted his tea?

Think A Team and you're half way there :tank: sounds stunning!

Trouble maker!!! Stone him!!!! only joking fellas' obviously, I don't know the details of exactly what's been going on Nathan but I'm sure everyone concerned will calm down to a frenzy in no time How's that big V8 van of yours and that yellow zed for that matter? Brew bettws, week after next??

Cheers mate, I've just been out and bought some 'tools' so tomorrow....it's war!!

Well I've had another go and still nothing, can't actually remove the HICAS arm (is it threaded on?) This is a 1995 SWB (electric HICAS) and the ball joint on this looks completely different to those on my 1991 UK spec LWB (hydraulic HICAS) are the later models ball joints configured differently?

Easy when you know how, cheers mate I used a stubby nut and bolt just to give me something to tap took all of 30 seconds each side... now the OEM bushes....hmnn, not so simple I think Looking inside there it appears to be threaded, can these just be un-screwed rather than getting a grinder on it???

and just to bring some balance. I hate you all :tt2:

I knew I should've just bought a Skyline :headvswal

Looks really good mate, what's next on the 'to do' list?

and it was all going so well :headvswal

I knew this wasn't going to be a straight forward out and in job...# The DW HICAS kit was previously fitted to the LWB, and the bushes are still fitted am I likely to be able to get these out intact or do I need to replace them, they haven't been used just fitted also the OEM bushes on the shortie' need to come out but they're still on the car and I dont really want to be removing hubs/knuckles etc, so what's the best way to get them out? I've searched and found loads of tips on how to drill them out, burn them out etc but want to use the simplest and least '****upable' method

Nice bit of JDM'ness you've got there mate....now go get a pair of Brides and some Takata's :thumbup1:

I've never removed track rod ends before, is it simple enough? I've got a decent set coming off the shortie' if you want some freebies mate, I've got some SPL/Tein replacements to go back on, so the OEM ones are there if you want them bud

but why would he want to gain mass mate, if his intention is to lose weight?

Not a single corpse on the paintwork mate, satin black is surprisingly quick drying aswell. The thing is, most of this will be covered with decals anyway so even if there were an odd blemish it'd be covered up I'm aiming off for a lot of the panels to get trashed on track so have opted for relatively cheap bolt on/cable tie on FRP parts that are easily replaceable I think the best looking satin black car that I've seen so far has to be the carbon bodied SunLine Racing R34 GTR from a few years back.... but I think you'd be pretty gutted if you owned that and it got trashed on track, whereas this little zed will no doubt take a battering but such is life

I believe this is correct, however the MC on the earlier S13 needs upgrading to accomodate, whereas the later S14 and S15 are a straight swap. Obviously it would need to be a 5x114.3 hub as well rather than 4 which I think the PS13 is.

Sounds like the after fight antics were more interesting than the actual fight itself http://news.uk.msn.com/uk/haye-and-chisora-brawl-after-bout Personally I was backing Klitschko from the off despite him facing a Brit', I thought that Chisora's antics pre-fight and post fight displayed a disgustingly severe lack of class and he's just come across as a headline grabbing chump!

If you don't need the money don't sell it, but if you do need the money sell it....as for running costs/insurance etc, they're going to increase regardless of what you drive so definately something to consider but shouldn't be the defining factor. If you think £6k is a fair price then list it on pistonheads at £6k and then potential buyers will confirm whether £6k is too much and adjust the price accordingly. There would inevitably be regrets if you did sell it but let's be realistic, there's a very good chance that the person who did buy it would in all probability post a similar thread in the next few years facing exactly the same dilemma. By that stage the new owner would have put a couple more quid into the car and if you're in a better position financially at that stage, then you can buy it back ask yourself, would it be an impulse sale? If the answer to that is yes then put a cover over it and don't sell, however if the answer is no and it's a sale out of necessity then you'd be in a better frame of mind to make a sensible call Are you going to be able to enjoy it this Summer or is will your new career prevent that?

Why would you be locking up with ABS fitted, would it not just spread the load and with the larger surface area aid in reducing over heating and brake fade? Mine's a drift car, so I don't need 12 pots and 380mm discs, which is why I've opted for the 8 pots 356mm front and 6 pots 356mm rears Agreed that they would be more useful on a car that is going to see a fair bit of track but why would you not want a much larger brake setup if you were planning on gunning for big power? If the guys are looking at pushing the 700-800 brake barrier with their zed then why not 12 pots/380mm, look at similar brake setups on 700-800bhp 'hyper cars'...