paulbrem

ROFL :) Cheers Chaps

Its that time again Happy Birthday Mate!

Well had a double check of everything, cleaned and sanded down earths in the bay and changed the ECU, now it won't start at all, still turns over though. The PTU is mad hot after only a few times trying to turn over. Going try another one....

I really felt a difference mate, If you can wait a week Ill be putting my callipers back on (2nd Zed) I'll take some comparison shots, but confidence wise, loads better.

I've been trying to do this Groover but it never worked on mine I have got another ecu to try if need be Z32Bolt The plug is sooty on the cylinder that's running (rich) and clear (but not clean) on the none firing cylinder. I'm going to recheck some more connectors later on and I have tried it with MAF plugged in, I purposely got the car running on datascan to see if all the sensors are reading and they are - temp, O2 etc. I have this guide I found http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1106815/Is-this-CODE-21-WRITE-UP-tech-article-worthy-IMG-help-plz.html and I'm up to testing the PTU side of things I'm going to clean the earths on the PTU again and maybe sand to bare plenum to get a better contact. I've not got a code 21 fault mine come back as 55 no faults when I ran on datascan.

I got evo brembo's up front and kept the same master cylinder

Right guys, I'm at a complete loss now and I have had a few days off due to the petrol smell giving me banging headaches. :( I have taken the cas off turned over by hand and tested for spark on some working cylinders and some duff cylinders and I cant see I spark on any?? The ignition is in the on position. I really don't know what to try next. firing on 3 Coilpacks swapped over no different. All injectors pulse with ear/screwdriver test and I have Ohm tested some cylinders both working and not working cylinders and are all fine. Unable to see a spark on some known good and bad cylinders by spinning cas. Battery Good, earth good. The spark plugs are brand new The Cylinders that were firing have fouled plugs.

So what blew the casing off, the pressure? I always thought that all the bits in the diff exploded and smashed the casing. The bolts did a good job of withstanding lol

Tested a few injectors today and cleaned and I am getting the correct ohms on the few I've checked, also the screw driver ear test and every one is ticking (pulsing?) Can someone please explain how to test for spark, my understanding is to take the coilpack out attach spark plug to coil pack and rest against plenum, my plenium has been painted so should I get jump leads to earth and other end on spark plug threads? If I wish to test for spark manually I have seen that I could remove cas and turn by hand, how do you do this? I assume you plug it back in and turn the part that's just been taken off?

Good luck with that mate, as for the dirty hands..........wear some latex gloves :)

I do actually know what you mean, although I haven't got a clue how much my z insurance would be I have just got rid of a 3.2 v6 petrol frontera, not the most expensive car in the world (but I did really, really like it) and I was insuring that for £222 fully comp? Sort the insurance out when its done. My car will be in a garage and my postcode isn't great but I've been on the advanced motoring course, (its free and I would recommend it to anyone), but it would take some z time away. Tick that box see if it makes a worthwhile difference. Don't let it get you down mate.

Still at it, lol I'm down 3 cylinders 3, 4, and 6. I have replaced the injectors but due to how they are wired its not those. I have swapped coil packs from working cylinders, not the cause. I have cleaned the terminals on an injector (3) and I have been trying to get a ohm reading from my multimeter but its not an auto type and has ranges - 200 2k 20 200k 2m 20m 200m - I put it on 20 but nothing appeared to happed, can someone advise? I'm working on cylinder 3 first as its easiest to get at :) Timing issue - Lightweight pully with no marks on I got a reading of datascan saying the timing was at 16 (warned up) was at 35 when first started. CAS is a tiny bit to anti-clockwise (bolt more to the right) but hasn't been altered, I have replaced the timing belt and every mark was aligned perfectly.

Years ago when I was playing with the data scan I found that the car would be stall on 3, yeah Ill have to manually check the others for spark, but it was originally cylinder 1 which had no spark but it started to come to life so I plugged back in

Thanks Ian, I'll sort that out with you if needed, I actually thought I had a spare myself but must have passed it on.

Well finally got my engine from my old car into my new one, which I haven't driven for 3 1/2 years lol. Been a long process, engine transplant, manual to auto conversion, some deletes Aircon, AVI, Carbon Canister. FPR also plenium water bypass and recon turbo's and front mount intercooler. It was very reluctant to start was turning over nicely though, I checked for fuel and was present, than I checked spark, no spark on cylinder one but was now popping and burbling? then I sprayed crank angle sensor, maf, throttle position sensor and pyu with contact cleaner, and off it eventually went :D very pleased. Now it's only on 4 (I think?) and properly sounds worse than a Subaru. I have got my data scan working and It shows no faults and I think everything else works (o2 sensors etc.) When I shut off cylinder 1 it stalls, 2,3,4,and 5 being shut off makes no difference? and again 6 being shut off it stalls. I have replaced the coil packs on cylinders 1 and 6, no difference, I have also sprayed contact cleaner on all coil packs. These are brand new spark plugs installed. I don't have a spare PTU to try. I can't drive it as no fluids in brakes or clutch at moment. Is it a pain to bleed water system after the bypass as its bled (left rad cap bubbling) but no heating. Need a push in some sort of direction please cos pleading with it only got me so far as to firing on 4. Quick Video which I took (Sorry about the sound wonder what I actually sound like when I'm on the phone??)

I said to a mate of mine that I was going to make a necklace with it like Dolph Lungren did with some ears in I think universal soldier lol I have this now and 8 valves I bent from a mazda 3 when I lost the timing, long story................

+1 Those are really smart

Well got it out yesterday afternoon and nearly managed to get it all back together again last night, wanted to do some final checks this morning before I jacked it down again. This was actually a fairly easy and pleasant job, but one I wouldn't like to attempt on a driveway. On TT net the fella had a two poster ramp, a proper engine support (the type that goes on your wings) and a transmission jack, he was well kitted out. I have an good garage space and some good equipment and at first I was a bit unsure. If your going to attempt to do this be careful! big thanks for the help offer and all the advice :) ! Some Pics

Sorry if this in in wrong section but I would like to get in touch with Tudor and the number I have for him does not work anymore he's not been online for a few months and I want to see if he has any engine slingers and If he will lend them to me :D

I asked the other half to bounce the car with me underneath it last night to listen to the rattling but she couldn't budge it (7 1/2 stones of power), I have found today the decat has a rattle? ffs that's for another day. Got the sump off with the sub frame on got about 12-15mm clearance , still getting nowhere going to have to borrow some engine lifters for the sides of the plenum to go with sub frame removal like Andy's suggested, not happy but gotta get on with it, I've put some fresh petrol in today and bought the antifreeze so still going at it.

I've been working on it tonight, got no where really. When I bounce the car up and down I can here it rattling about in the sump so it's not stuck somewhere.

Got the dipstick out but the scale has pulled off and is in sump.trying to hoover it out at the moment turbo return n sump plug with absolutely no luck as expected. I think the best way would be to cut a plate out of sump and reweld a section back in. Don't think I'll be going down that road though. May have to do what you suggested Andy but as a last resort cheers. Also thinking of leaving in...........would be easiest :oops:

Thanks Gary, Didn't come up in my search.......... I'm a right bell aren't I? I've even given myself a blister whilst trying to get it out lol, and the cars moving up and down too! I've seen from another forum thanks Andy, I wont be taking the engine out though. Cheers for the offer Ian :) I don't know when Im going to attempt it though, I'm gonna sulk for a bit now whilst my battery is still charging.......

Good idea Gary but it has three rubber steps attached to the stop position that form a seal, so oil on garage floor, it's not going down I have tried to wiggle it free but its not happening

I've got my battery on charge here, might get round to try to start it later on tonight...........this engine hasn't been run in 5 years and only needs some oil and water in but I have this problem:cursing: