paulbrem

Yeah I know what you mean Pete, I didn't want to start throwing money at the problem due to all seals getting replaced 10k ago when a OS Giken clutch was installed (only for about 20miles) that's why I assumed they was OK. I have a braided line to the slave, and a home made copper going from the braided connector to the master, no leaks I did have a concern about sucking air in at first but I'm pretty confident it's not. It doesn't get firmer with pumping either.

Been on with this a while now and here's where I'm at Bear in mind that I have changed the clutch on a different zed a few times and previously had new slave cylinder and master cylinder less thank 10k ago in a different zed. Bought a auto and want to turn into a manual Put pedal in and adjusted to the correct position The system was bled using the correct procedure including the nipple near the hicas, no luck soft pedal and slave only comes out a small amount 10/12 mm. Made a one piece line straight from master to slave and filled from bottom using oil can, no luck soft pedal and slave only comes out a small amount 10/12 mm as before with no real pressure on fork. Bought a new slave cylinder and filled from bottom as before and bled, still the same, looks a bit better watching from underneath, but pedal way too soft, doesn't seem to get firm until last 2 inch of downward travel (which has been story all along) Cars not been running when bleeding. Bleeding procedure used is filling from bottom the manually pressing the slave cylinder pin in and out until all small bubbles have risen out of filler bottle, then as the manual states 4 pumps of clutch pedal hold in and release nipple then repeat at the slave. I'm about to order a master cylinder seal kit from the States but do I have a pedal or booster problem? because it's driving me mental :(

My problem is that the pedal only feels hard at the last 20% of the stroke, the slave cylinder only moves a bit. All my components are from my old car and have done less than 5k miles. I've even made a one piece clutch line and still I feel that there is air in, but I've bled n bled ect....

500bhp is a lot of power to hold mate I had an OS Giken clutch years ago and it was that stiff it went through my seals in the slave and master cylinders, it was drivable but in a traffic jam the clutch started to slip and the biting point raised. I had to replace both. Is your biting point OK?

I've done mine outwards too as I read on a guide the other week. I'm having loads of trouble getting my clutch sorted (manual conversion). Is your clutch capable of holding the power? Is it slipping when driving immediately or when you've been driving a while?

Here we are........not a Nissan slave cylinder but the replacement brand whatever it is did the business for a dew years on my last car.

Do you want me to measure for you bud?

Give me till tomorrow night and I'll take mine out and put a pic up and measure for you, please bump this tomorrow tea time as I'll forget lol

I thought that, but it looks like it stands for 3 meter :)

Oops cant edit membership run out (soon comes round), also on the drivers side there is no panel gap at all where it runs up the door really bad :(

I've got the nearside on no bother (apart from the panel gap on the bonnet, the drivers side is well off, it's as though its totally twisted, if I bolt to under car and near mirror I have to force the near headlamp bit right down, where they meet the front bumper isn't great either. Ive had em on before with a couple of loose bolts in just for storage purposes but the front bumper was a good inch and a half away? I've meshed em up over the last few weeks and the other night was a do or die mission, and I died lol. The reason I actually wanted them off a breaker was because of this, now it seems worse. Sounds like they all the same

I have been having loads of trouble getting these to fit right even though these have come off a breaker which I would have thought have been fettled with, this is probably the biggest reason the cars not roadworthy because I keep putting the job off because I'm getting no-where, I would have gone back to original but I practically gave them away I have searched and found out they are quite expensive now. :( Anyway can fibreglass distort over time? (these have been a pig to store so it wouldn't surprise me) Or any tips :D

In all seriousness I could believe it, especially from the inside if all those gauges matter.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ I would imagine everything you need will be on there mate

Got stung with this yesterday at about 19:00 :( Been in live chat but no joy lol

Errrrmmmmm, basically I want one :( is it a home made jobbie? I lived with my wings west rear last time, but I think the underside is like a parachute want to chop the bottom section off and get a diffuser just like yours :)

Well done mate, looks ace! any info on the rear diffuser

It may have been 3/4 weeks ago I was going to get some paint about 12 ish I was in a ultra rare white fiat 500 lol

Did I see you in near Bolton town center a couple of weeks ago on a Saturday with the T tops off? Because I saw a red J plate then

Cheers Mark, because this car has been work in progress for years I'm always back tracking and reasking myself the same old questions. The clutch system is really doing my head in and I stripped it all down and inspected and rebuilt today again thought I'd double check :)

reminds me of my first z btw. carrots and door sticker > wheels

OK I know I should know this but............ number 1. clutch booster >>>>>>>>> one way valve >>>>>>>>>>> plenum number 2. clutch booster I think its number 2 :D

All the best Ian :)

I enquired about one from the US years ago, never got one as they were $$$$

Done! to be honest I wouldn't sell it. It ran no trouble for years but the casing is suspect, and something didn't look quite right on a dyno printout I have, but It was from a trader on here. It didn't prime the fuel after the car had been stood a few years but the stock one did :)