markzx

Hi just wondered if anyone knew the best place to get a replacement remote for a Greddy Profec E01 Boost controller. Car has been to body shop recently and they remote has vanished.

It's Tweed. Alcantara interiors have a leather butty box lid and leather arm rest in the doors. + they have door pillar mounted seat belts and I think the first series 3's came out at the end of 92. Just crap photo.

Hi just wondered if anyone knew the best place to get a replacement remote for a Greddy Profec E01 Boost controller. Car has been to body shop recently and they remote has vanished.

What gauge are you using as the standard water temp and oil presure are generally very inaccurate. for it to spit water out it means that your system is either presurising due to the introduction of combustive gasses, excessive temps, an air lock or perhaps a faulty/knackered rad cap. You could try bleeding you system first to get rid of any airlocks (check for wet carpets in pasenger footwell) get a new rad cap and see if that works, but to me it sound like the start of head gasket failure. Sorry

I can't remember who I spoke to. I know they arn't open on saturdays. I answered and add on the web and spoke to the guy. It was only when he gave me the full address that I realised it was Cobra. I'm going to get my buckets from there because he also said that they would retrim my door cards and pannels in the same material I chose for my seats. At a reasonable rate, but they would inssist on putting the Cobra Logo in the glove box and the 2 little bits pannels behind the seats. I'm thinking plum Alcantara and charcoal.

Why not get some of those Cobra off road bucket seats. Your not far from Telford. If you go to the factory they'll measure you up even for the Cheep ones and supply subframes. I think you can get a pair of Imola S with subframes for under £200 direct from the factory. Also they are developing a new seat that is being manufactured in China for them and I was offered to have a pair in full leather fitted to my Z free So they could used it as a Pro Mo. Maybe worth asking. I didn't want them though because like the standard Z seats they have a steel frame and weigh 27 and 21kg.

They are very comfy, but designed for people of large proportions that you Leigh. You may slosh around abit in them.

All the best there Mick Another Arty person on the forum. Nice one.

Cheeky Cununt :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I think Sard actually make all Nismo and Nissan injectors. + I know that Sard are the most popular used uprated injectors in Japan.

I agree with the general opinion here that the turbo size is the limiting factor, but I also have to question who told you that they could upgrade to a 360 degree ball bearing type. A 360 degree bearing is a thrust bearing and a totally different cartridge so be aware.

Putting fuel in my Truck when a little old lady pulls up at the pump behind me. I can see she carn't find the petrol flap switch so offer to help (only because she reminded me of my little old mum). She's very pleased and I ask how much petrol she'd like and kindly put £20 worth in. Only then when I remove the filler cap off the back of the flap do I realise (due to it being written in big fook off red letters) that it is a diesel. I couldn't just let her clear off and wreck her car so I told her what I'd done and promtly got the RAC out. In total She missed he blue rinse appiontment. I paid £20 for diesel and £60+Vat to have her tank drained and felt like a real knob. We'd dropped her off home while Mr RAC and I took her car to get the tank drained. When we got back I apologised and offer to take it round the garage to put diesel in and she smiled and said thank you but I'll do it myself. :slap: :nelson: The moral of the story is, beware good Samaritans

Try your existing insurance company, but ask if you can speak to a underwriter about a bespoke insurance package of your special version of a Nissan 300zx. I did this with my insurance company having gone down the same road as you. What you have to remember is the people you speak to are the foot troops who have very limited working guide lines and do not have the power to vary them. I spoke to my insurance company about 5 times trying to speak to an underwriter. They kept telling me there's no point we don't insure modifyed cars. So I asked them if ****** ever do any one off policies for paintings boats etc and they said of course. I said right then let me speak to those people to insure my special car. They said "thats done by the underwriters". I replied thats why I've been asking to speak to them. 10 minutes with the underwriter and I had an agreed value policy and fully comp insurance. Mind you I live in a low crime area. over a mile from the main road and 400 yards off a lane. + I was 44 and it still cost me £900 per year.

I'm sure that both the above threats are criminal in nature and that the Police would act upon them. Which inturn will result in him being barred from Ebay.

But won't you look a dick when you get nailed by a Ford Focus. Now a Zonda kit car with a LS7 7ltr V8 in it would be a nice propersition.

Don't do much town driving and Chester isn't a big place so not paid much attention. I know when I nail the thing on those mountain roads it used to do about 10mpg.

It is either the Meter which would make sence or the Audio fuse even though that sounds stupid. It has happened to me im my SWB's and they are both Jspec so it just says 10A Sqwigaw sqwigaw and 10A Sqwigaw sqwigaw. I had replaced the clutch box and clutch master on one and somehow blew the fues. The other I was trying to kill the fecking speed alarm behind the clocks and blew the fues.

Series 1 and series 2/3 had different connectors though the important wires are still the same colour so you can swap the plugs over.

Its a fuse in the foot well. A 10amp I carn't remember which one, but it is defo that. I've got the Tshirt and ate the pie, but the book was boring. The power steering is effected by the signal from the clocks so it stops power steering working. He proberbly blew the fues changing the clocks over.

That is nearly 29.7 miles per gallon. Thats about right for anf auto traveling at a constant 80mph ish. Well I used to get that out of my auto on the motorway.

The second one is the new GTR due to go on sale in the UK in April 2008.

I have both and would say that the TT even with all the mods is slightly better on the fuel than the NA. I have a theory though that the NA uses more gas because I drive it that bit harder to compensate for the power short fall. Having said that I love my NA as it is loud and very posertive where the TT can be a bit brutal and loose the full driver feed back. Then again the silly grin it puts on your face. Two very different animals and I'd recomend them both.

I also forgot to say you'll need bigger IC's. I think side mounts are the best as they don't interfere with the air flow to the rad etc. then have the chip remapped (providing it has a socketed ECU) If you really want to go down That road then looking at the Z1.motorsport & amzperformance rebuild kits and their power kits is proberbly the cheepest way to go at the moment because of the exchange rate. Then have a word with Phil at C & S Wood 01942892568 Don't think I'm trying to put you off, but remember I warned you :rofl: :rofl: before you fell into the Dark financial Abyss of high powered Zed ownership.

Every auto car including Zeds I ever driven has a little lag on drive engagement and unless it is servere don't worry about it. I used to manually sellect second or third with the shifter for corners. This means the car never disengauges drive and the problem is elimiated. It also makes for far more entertaining driving and getting the most out of the box. If it is too baggy then take it back to who ever did your box and get it sorted. If you don't and it is too baggy you'll end up dropping the back end in the bad weather and a higher chance of parking it up a tree, in field or up a post. Normally on its roof.

Ah the 500bhp Navana. Before you start throwing thousands of pounds at your car let me ask you a few questions. What do you want to use the car for? Would this be your every day ride? Can you afford to pay £5K ayear insurance? If not would you really want to spend all that money on a car that if it got nicked, crashed or pulled for a VOSA inspection, it would be lost and no pay out. 500rwhp is a figure talked about a lot but very few ever reach it and when they do the car is normally unusable as an every day ride. The car you've got is proberbly about 320 to 340 bhp at the crank so about 260 to 270 at the wheels. An extra 60rwbhp would make it feel twice as fast. It wouldn't need a rebuild for that power. You wouldn,t need a £1500 clutch to hold the power. you wouldn't need to upgrade the 3rd and 4th gear clusters with OS Giken or Quaife, You could spend a couple of grand on bling for the engine bay and tell all your mates that it's 600bhp like everyone else does. They'll believe you because a 400 to 440 Fwhp (320 to 360rwhp) is awesome and they most likely never ever ride in anything that fast. Save your money for about 3 years and then buy yourself something like a noble or a Ferrari 355 or such like. 400rwhp = Big brake kit Good induction Sorted free flow exhaust Boost controler 440 or 555 injectors lightened pulley set Lightened flywheel and uprated clutch Uprated 15 row x 235mm oil cooler uprated Rad and enjoy.