markzx

Possibly next year when my divorce is over and done with. Till then it's looking shite for this Christmas.

Just looked at this new pick and yep these have the duel cyclone impellers so they are exactly the same. Badge engineering. Maybe cheeper to see how much you'd pay for brand new Garrett GT2837Rs from Turbo Dynamics. They are the UK Garret dealer. Just a thought as the pound is stong and they'll have discounts anyway.

Ideally the EGR valve wants removing and the boss on the manifold blocking off, but for now just block the pipes off. As the other is a plenum off job. Duffer recon's that the 22mm Yorkshire fitting pipe end stops fit in and that the solder seam keeps it air tight once the collors are tweeked tight.

They look the same externally, but they only have the single impeller blades and the JWT's that Bazza has and the GT2867Rs that I have have the duel cyclone impellers.

Does anyone know if you can wire up the series 2 controls to a series 1 to allow manual selecton of screan, face, feet or any combination of as you can with the series 2

Brilliant bit of info Does anyone know if you can wire up the series 2 controls to a series 1 to allow manual selecton of screan, face, feet or any combination of as you can with the series 2

I have the Garret GT2837RS BB turbos and they are real smooth right through the rev range. I only run 555's with mine and it will still fishtail if you nail it at 80mph with good Bridgestone Rubber, so that'll do me. If 200mph was my objective then bigger injectors would be required and you power curve climbs much higher up the rev scale P.S. I had a good look at Bazzas turbos before Phil fitted them and we were both convinced that they were the same turbo and impellors. I recently had to have one replace and having them of so recently after looking at Bazza's I'm convinced they are the exact same turbo and think the Z1 tub's are as well.

You'll feel the difference though you will loose a little low end torque. It will rev more freely and they estimate between 15 and 25 RWHP which is quite a kick.

Firstly Are your turbo's 360 degree thrust bearings or are they roller bearing? Either way 20 psi would kill them off very quickley as T25's would produce emence heat attempting those psi figures and you performance would be seriously less than running about 15 psi? Remember it is not just airflow but air dencity. So the hotter the air the less dencity so less oxigen for good combustion. I also doubt that the DTA chip would provide a good enough feul map for those boost presures and you'll end up with detting if your not carefull. Which will destroy the standard pistons. The other issue would be the head gaskets. Even new OEM on a new build engine would peoberbly fail under regular 20 psi and on an old engine are one of the regular items to fail anyway. Even running a standard setup. Then there is the general condition of the Valve stem seals conition of the bores etc. I would guestimate a standard lump without any serious overhaule will fail very quickly running more than 15 psi. You'll also need a serious oil cooler with a proper take off plate as the standard 10mm set up is designed to only cool part of the oil on a presure regulator. + The standard cooler would be way too small and you need to be looking at at least a 15 row x 235mm x 28mm on 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch feeds. you'd need a divorced duel intake system to allow that kind of air volume and then you'd need either a duel MAF set up with Fuel controler to average the Signal to the ECU or a stand alone aftermarket programable ECU with MAP sensor inputs and wide band Lambas.

Are these the 2 braided steel wires that come from the ducting to the exhaust pipes just after the gear box. If so then you just cut them as the are to do with your emissions rubbish. The Lambas fit into the down pipes and must be retained.

Congatulations Stu and Good Lady. You life will never be the same again, but in a really nice , but exremely knackering way.

I don't know wether I should :hurl: or laugh or both :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

:nono: :nono: :nono:

If you are going for big power and not just using the car as a track car I would avoid any paddle type clutches. I know the RPS Carbon Carbon is suposed to be the dogs, but its £1500 and I've no personal experience of. I've Had ATC paddle clutch and would never recoment one to anyone. the are just snatchy on or off and really heavy. So you need a leg like Conan. I've Also had the O S Giken Twin plate which will handle what your after. At £850 it is a really good bit of kit and not too heavy to use as a daily drive. Only down side is that after about every 300 miles it starts to get a bit grabby and needs a real good drag start or 2 to clean out the dust and make it feel nice again. + it will need a £400 rebuild kit about every 20 to 30 thousand miles depending on how hard you drive. I then went for the Exedy Twin Carbon Alloy at £1350. This is the nicest clutch I've had other than standard. The thing is that you ain't going to get much of a clutch cheeper than the O S Giken + both the Exedy and the O S Giken come complete with lightend flywheel and ajustable slave. Well not that will live with the kind of power your talking anyway.

Very good advice. When I first bought my TopMig I cut the sills out of my old P6 Rover and welded new in all one side. By the time I'd finish the second side i'd got good at it. So good that the first side looked really crap. I ended up getting the angle grinder out and cuting it all out and re did it.

Why not Red and blue. Blue rocker cam and throttle covers and Red silicone. Hoops Someone's already done that :rofl: :rofl:

Bloody nice wheel though. Are they the same as funky Si's :bow:

Are you sure you have 9.5J on the front?? If they are your wheels with the deep dishes and looking at the profile you would have to have minimum of 265's on the front. Thats awefully wide for the front and I had rubbing problems when I thought I'd try bigger and put 245's on. + they tramlined all over the place. I'd say they look more like 8.5J with 235's on the front

Hi There The offset all depends on the wheel width, but for good hanling I'd say that 8.5J is the widest you'll want the fronts and at that width then a 25 offset will fill the wheel arch nicely. If you go for an 8J then 20 offset would do the job. On the rears a 9.5J would sit well on a 30 offset. A 10J proberbly a 35 offset. Go any smaller offset and you need to have arches rolled and will have front wheels fowling the inner arches. The PDC is 114.3. Your better looking at people like wheel mania who will do you a wheel and tyre deal for your car and work it all out for you. I am selling some wheels shortly http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=102784

Don't ask, but since you have :headvswal :smash: :cry: :rofl: :rofl: So more of the same really. I never recovered from you painting her the same colour as mine :rant: :rofl: :rofl: How much you looking for your car?

Hi Rich Long time no hear. How goes it. I thought you'd sold her some time ago. I know Danny does the 99 spes incerts, but £300 ish. I'd have thought there must be someone up your neck of the woods that does plastic chroming. Get searching the web sir. regards Mark

It is all about buying the right car in the first place. If you were to buy a 1994 MkIV supra you'll be spending between £9K and £12K. You can buy a 1994 Z for between £3.5K and £6K and proberbly need to do nothing but maintain it. Well sorted ones will cost more. For £5K you can have new turbos and engine rebuild and still be cheeper than a Supra with the same power, handling etc and better looks. Brakes Wheels Clutches etc need changing on all cars as they are consumables. Too many people think it a dirt cheep super car. Well the reason so many are dirt cheep is because loads are neglected and need serious wonga spending on them, but it doesn't have to be the case. I recently bought a SWB NA manual for £1500. thinking it would be good for spares. It turned out to be a real cracking little moter and better than the SWB I was going to use it for as spares for..

Hi Danny good thing to mention. The little plastic tube ensures that the fuel has to pass through the filter. Without the plastic tube it can go strait through. It also helps reduce the fuel presure to correct level as the regulator is designed to regulate the presure based on standard pump duty. Out of the 3 Zeds I have I have checked all three since discovering this and only 1 had it fitted as most people just bin the filter without noticing the pipe.

I really think you'd have serious handling problems with those on the front unless you had 19 x 13.5J on the rears. Remeber the Zed isn't 4 wheel drive so the wider the front tyre the more tramlining you'll get and the worse the car will be to strear in the rain. Everyone thinks that more rubber means better handling, but it actually mean more traction. You need just enough traction on the front to counter the amount your drive wheels are pushing you. Too much up front and they get hold of everything and instead of increasing your control they give the too much traction and leave you fighting every conture of the road to see who is wins the steering battle. Usually it will be the road unless your on a well surfaced race track. Just look at the Porsche 911 GT3. It pushes 500bhp and it come standard with 235/30/19's up front and 285/25/19's on the rear. + The Ferrari 430 only has 235's up front. It is only the 4WD big power cars with wide front tyres.

First thing to check is the wheel balance. They will often need rebalancing half way through the tyre life. Think about it. The wheel was balanced for all the new rubber that now is no longer there. The other thing to check out is your tyre's. This will show if they are waring unevenly do to incorrect toe on either front or rear. Which would give same symptoms. Most comon of all is cheep to midrange tyes. Especially once they're part worn. Good rubber will keep you on the road in all weathers and be kind to your car and brakes. Jack's Exhaust hangers suggestion would be my next port of call if above didn't find the cure. Then the centre bearing, then the diff and output shafts. You read have to start with the basic's and not take a scatter gun approach or you'll end up changing stuff that don't need fixing.