Terry

Can't see very good but is it freezing cold could be aircon the pipe could be dripping water, from freezing and ice water ends up on pipe, If it is that it's nothing to worry about...

I'd polish them just saves the hassle of completely stripping them they have seals on the sides and quite a lot of springs etc... and the polished bit usally brakes it up a bit,

Sorry water pipes were powder coat chrome and again I have 1st set in garage they came out horrible but the 2nd lot are very nearly chrome but easy to clean, If the powder coater is good he can hide all the slight marks,

Had 2 plenums in garden and they were really crap looking the throttle bodies were rough like this but came up well, also they blast the plenum before coating which probably evens out a lot before coats go on,

I just quickly polished them on a desk type polishing thing my boss had at work, again there not polished like a mirror but are shiny and probably how they were when new

This is mine I didn't smooth mine and it has covered all the marks it's smooth like car paint, but 1st powder coater was crap think it depends who is doing it, mine was done twice 2nd time it's on a lot thicker and covered everything mine is candy blue it has a chrome layer then blue by the looks of it, Put an old set of pcv valves in the holes, Some m6 and sure it was m8 in the other bigger holes, I didnt mask the gasket faces and I used a da sander keeping it flat and removed powder coat on faces and mine has been fine no boost leaks etc... I also made some egr blanks from a piece of stainless sheet. here's a couple of pics of mine - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - -

Some leds look ok si, new audi and bmws have led number plate bulbs and look good especially on a white car it's a clean light I find the halogen bulbs look dirty and yellow, I have the 501canbus error free bulbs with about 6leds on one in my misses espace which has factory hids and it looks just right, it had halogen 501 sidelight which looked horrible, have the same in my zed can't remember the colour difference to my hids but I never noticed it, maybe try some different led side lights,

But really worth it looks much better that stonechip looks shite...

Wouldn't like to do it by hand used a lot of da disc, I only da sanded till it was in primer then it was sanded by hand, just keep da flat and slow and careful on corners etc... to be honest some one may come along soon and say an easier way I probably done it the hard way lol it was quite a long process...

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It's quite a lot of sanding so hoping your using a da sander, I started with quite a rough grit da disk think was around 100grit maybe 120grit then 180 then 240grit you need to get it has flat as possible but dont need to get it perfect, Then plastic primer followed by a couple of coats of 2k high build with 2k elastic mixed in, spray with a dust coat of black aerosol once dry I used a block with 320grit which covered most of what was left gave it another 2coats of high build again with 2k elastic blocked with 400/500/600/800, Above is roughly how it went my bro in law told me what to sand and primered it... - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - -

I'd just go to any car parts shop and order some jack oil, you don't want the bugger dropping on you....

Think it's more when you start swapping parts over, same has the doors they have washers that are welded and I've changed a few doors and they never line up. I had to remove and re weld washers to make my doors fit perfect...

Does sound like it's low on oil, normally can buy jack oil, it's more like an hydraulic oil or brake fluid,

Mine were like this and had to bend the brackets slightly, I'm guessing all cars line up slightly different, I went a bit ocd with mine adjusting panel gaps, but now it's like an audi lol...

mostly underneath, also depends on your tools, decent quality tools, ratchet spanners, long extensions etc go a long way,

yep sometimes i do jobs much quicker sometimes i think how the hell lol, but i use it for rough pricing of jobs on cars i dont know well, never really looked at zeds on it, but some labour times would be scary the prices it would work out too...that job showing on screen is nearly 2k without buying a bloody part lol...

ouch just looking on autodata seen how much to remove and rebuild an engine,

ouch just looking on autodata seen how much to remove and rebuild an engine,

It's actually ok to do I've done a few with engine in, the manual actually says to do it with engine in, I found drivers side easier, remove the master cylinder and steering column which gives you some room, Passanger side I have no aircon pump, and I usually undo bolts so I can clock the turbo which gives room to manifold bolts and take the lot off in one, I think d2 use to do them with engine in and they lowered subframe, I also find its ok saying remove it all if you have plenty of money to spend on other bits, but pulling engine usally disturbs everything like looms which end up broken which if engine was left alone would have been ok, I mean you have to pull gearbox or lift it out in one, autos can normally leave box where it is on a jack so no need to touch underneath, you could say box is off so pointless putting old clutch in, change rear seal, etc etc before you know it there's hours more work and ££££ in labour and you only had a leaky turbo lol .. especially if your paying labour to a garage it is close though in labour on autodata it's 9.2hrs to remove engine and its 11hrs to replace both turbos with engine in but the labour to remove turbo's once engine is out plus every thing else that breaks or needs replacing would push that bill up... but if it's really rusty and bolts won't undo it's game over and would need engine to be removed,

It's actually ok to do I've done a few with engine in, the manual actually says to do it with engine in, I found drivers side easier, remove the master cylinder and steering column which gives you some room, Passanger side I have no aircon pump, and I usually undo bolts so I can clock the turbo which gives room to manifold bolts and take the lot off in one, I think d2 use to do them with engine in and they lowered subframe, I also find its ok saying remove it all if you have plenty of money to spend on other bits, but pulling engine usally disturbs everything like looms which end up broken which if engine was left alone would have been ok, I mean you have to pull gearbox or lift it out in one, autos can normally leave box where it is on a jack so no need to touch underneath, you could say box is off so pointless putting old clutch in, change rear seal, etc etc before you know it there's hours more work and ££££ in labour and you only had a leaky turbo lol .. especially if your paying labour to a garage it is close though in labour on autodata it's 9.2hrs to remove engine and its 11hrs to replace both turbos with engine in but the labour to remove turbo's once engine is out plus every thing else that breaks or needs replacing would push that bill up... but if it's really rusty and bolts won't undo it's game over and would need engine to be removed,

i would have thought they were slighty oval, cause theres normally a washer there built on each side of the bolt to adjust the tracking, like a camber bolt...

i would have thought they were slighty oval, cause theres normally a washer there built on each side of the bolt to adjust the tracking, like a camber bolt...

I just looked again but I did buy all 3 parts centre panel so may not be has cheap as I thought lol...