Noz

This sounds awesome. I know it's already booked and everything, but this could really take off similar to the awesome SXOC Weekender if it wasn't for the Japshow clash. Next year, no clashes please :laugh:

Smithy knows all there is to know with regards to the design & spec of the stock plugs I believe :yes:

There is a lot of difference in length, relatively speaking. The thread I linked to goes into some detail. I've not done a back-to-back run, even if there was a 5% power increase using platinum plugs (there won't be though), I would still run & recommend copper plugs. I wouldn't risk platinums in my engine. I've not done any experimentation at all, it's not something I believe is worth it. I try to keep as diplomatic as possible on this topic as it can be a contentious issue. In truth I want to type in huge black letters "Do Not Run Platinum Plugs". Instead, what I do is run coppers in all my cars, and recommend copper plugs to everybody that will listen. The design of the stock plug is best for the VG head, and of course there are thousands of Zeds running happily on platinums. Bobgenie runs colder-grade platinums at 500-odd bhp IIRC. The only people with a reason to recommend a platinum plug are going to be main dealers & spark plug dealers. I was honestly shocked when I realised people were running higher boost on grade 6 platinums. They're just not suitable. This is just my opinion, however, I'm not saying people running platinum plugs are wrong, per se. Not at all. I just find it strange that with regards to spark plugs, people believe Nissan know best. Yet not so when it comes to exhausts, boost levels, air filters, oil, suspension components & geometry, HICAS, EGR, PRVR, AIVs, PCVs etc etc. IMO, Nissan & NGK designed the best plug for a BRAND NEW VG to last 60k miles at stock power to cover all types of driving APART from sustained high speed runs. For that, it's a grade 7 IMO. IMO IMO IMO :laugh: With regards to plug gap, that's something that depends on the condition of the ignition components as well as boost level, the ideal gap is as large as possible for the boost you're running without having the spark blown out. In mine, I gapped them to 0.9mm and they have been spot-on. BCR8ES.

Noooo, far from it, I didn't mention copper plugs with regards to saving any money :) As with most things, there are pros & cons to copper plugs. The only con being that they need to be changed more often and actually work out more expensive in the long run. The pros (better heat dissipation therefore not becoming a source of pre-ignition for one), greatly outweigh the cons IMO. Platinum plugs were introduced for one reason, and one reason only: Extended service intervals. On a 20yr old car out of warranty with known heating and rear cylinder issues, and for the sake of 30mins every year, it's a redundant concept IMO. On the surface, by recommending copper plugs you may be seen as a 'cheapskate', but in actual fact, you're keeping your car fitted with fresher, more suitable components. Just because a car maker specifies a certain component, doesn't mean it is the best choice. These aren't vehicles fresh out of the showroom. The spark plug is important and should be checked, nothing should be left alone & forgotten for 60k miles just because that was the interval specified by Nissan back in 1989 to help sell more cars :sad: If someone can show me a downside to running a set of NGK BCPR7ES or BKR7E plugs, then I would be very surprised, given that I have run 8s for a year with plenty of low load cruising and stop-start city driving with zero starting issues & minimal fouling. The way I see it, I do not know how many stock engines have failed due to running PRF6B-11B/C, either solely or partly. I do, however, know that running coppers means there is negligible chance of pre-ignition happening due to the tip retaining too much heat. All those rear cylinders & ringlands that have failed... a combination of too much timing, too hot a plug, too much boost, high IATs, too little fuel, too low an octane, not enough coolant flow..... You just do your best to minimise or eliminate each potential issue: Correct mapping, colder spark plugs, 99RON, sensible boost levels, improvements over the stock components. I personally would never run a platinum plug in any 90's FI engine, let alone the VG. Despite the Zed having a one-off plug specified by Nissan, others work perfectly well, so the choice is there. Both sides of the coin are represented here fairly well I think, which delves deeper into the technical aspects: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?165254-Spark-plug-type-and-size-for-a-modified-TT For me, the peace of mind offered is worth it and makes up for the job of swapping them every 8-10k miles. Running copper plugs is definitely not about saving a few pennies!

Well that's gratitude for you! Took some work to get your car running sweet, and now you don't like it :lol: :lol: In all seriousness, turn the boost down on 'setting A' until you get it to a comfortable level. It doesn't affect the map side of things. I'm waiting on some prices from Competition Clutches and may have a promotional offer happening soon :thumbup1:

Haha, funny stuff :D

If you're OK with using coppers, a set of BKR7E do the job perfectly, one stage colder than stock. They're cheaper, but need to be changed more often, so in the long run there is no discernible difference in costs.

I'm there regardless of location, just let me know as & when :D

I'll be there :)

Off the top of my head, I think they are 35mm.

I lived in Whitby for nearly 10 years. Poor me :laugh:

Questions: Spec of car? What map are you running? How much boost are you running? What plugs are you running? (If copper, what's the gap?) Have you got access to a wideband lambda sensor? Recommendations: No more WOT until you are sure exactly what is going on :) Audible detonation sounds like an empty crisp packet being scrumpled up in a hand. Crackly.

Haha, yours and a few others no doubt!

I'll be there, working :)

Is this posted over on IMOC mantav8?

About time buddy :)

10w-40 is a good all-rounder. 10w/15w-50 for 'high' power & track work for example. The 10w-50 basically has a higher viscosity at higher temps. They both have the same viscosity at start-up.

On their own they're more trouble than good, but on a modified car that is set up correctly (remapped warm up routine etc) then they work as intended.

Same here, did all the trims for £10. Never bothered with the primer either, so they'll probably need doing again in a year's time. Beats chrome though.

I only run stock fuel pressure on the Zed & Pulsar mate. 3 bar on the MR2. I have run at up to 4 bar on my S13, which actually run at 2.5 bar as stock, but this was with larger injectors & uprated fuel pump. The only issue I see is ensuring the fuel pump can supply the requisite fuel at higher line pressures, within reason of course. When I get close to maxing the stock Zed injectors on my car, I'll be running 4 bar pressure. To be honest, I don't think I'll need to at all with the stock Auto turbos.

Max power is at 5815rpm on run#1, you won't actually run to the limits of the stock injectors at the peak power on a Zed at that point unless running well over 450bhp. You can do it safely by lowering the RPM limit if the turbos continue to produce boost efficiently and don't tail off. You would be losing 1000rpm, but it would keep the injectors from 'maxing' out. Obviously not the ideal set up, but a (relatively) safe way of producing high power on smaller injectors without killing your engine. Fuel pressure at 4 bar gives 427cc, 4.5 bar gives 453cc equivalent flowrates. If you can hit 420bhp on stock 370s, then you would need a flow rate of 440cc/min for 500bhp. This requires a fuel pressure of 4.24 bar. It is doable, but in this case the engine figure has been manipulated (transmission losses of 35%). The reason for this as already stated is the operator using the brakes. 375@wheels is around 430bhp @ fly given 15% transmission losses. Doable, especially at such a lean mixture. Temporarily.....

Old thread I know, but is this beast still about or did the high-12 AFRs prove to be too much on the ragged edge?

I'll travel any kind of distance for some karting action and a good laugh :cool3: Years back I went all the way up to TRL for a rolling road day with karting the day after in my S13, plus a visit to Whitby. About 500 miles all-in. Got a bronze medal for the karting too :D

Hello & welcome to the club :)

As suggested, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over until the oil pressure builds. Never hurts to give it some freah oil if it has been standing for a while :)