Noz

EGR thread is M22x1.5, wideband lambda thread is M18x1.5. Also, it's best to place it at least 12" from the turbine housing.

If I were you, there would be no reason not to vent the breathers to atmosphere to see if it helps at all.

Pressure in the sump builds because of blow-by on boost on this occasion, hence the breather system. If oil wasn't flowing freely, the top end would be the first victim. Or the big ends. Or the turbo bearings. Excessive oil levels in the turbo on idle (ie when the problem is happening) would be caused by an overfilled sump. I've never looked into the OWV trick too deeply, I just know it's a cheap (pretty much free) & easy way to temporarily solve the issue before going for staggered seals. Both Garrett & TD give the lack of pressure within the turbo exacerbated by free-flowing exhausts as the root cause of weeping turbo seals. I've never experienced it because whenever I get a car, the stock breather system is binned for reasons given in my previous post. The OWV trick is from my S13-owning days, reported to work a charm even on knackered turbos. Some people claim it solved the issue for a couple of years! My VG is vented to atmosphere, so all blow-by gasses exit immediately, but I don't have the scavenging effect on idle or overrun. Small price to pay IMO. Oil-wise, 10W40 semi synthetic seems to do well, I banged some Castrol in mine about a year ago after a flush and not had any reason to swap it since. About due a change now though. In my other cars I run Shell Helix 15W50 fully synth. It smells lovely....

Probably why I have never had the issue on any of my turbocharged cars, exactly what I do the moment I get a car. Who wants oily fumes being drawn through the intake? It's an emissions based configuration designed to save the world at the expense of your car's intake tract & octane number. The one pro about the system is that there is vacuum to help scavenge crankcase pressure on idle & overrun, but if you must, everything should be routed through a sealed catch can set up (separator) to prevent anything other than fuel & uncontaminated air being injested by the engine.

OK, grab a couple of one-way valves (found in most cars in the hose between brake servo & inlet manifold). These then need to be placed in the breather pipes from the cam covers to the turbo inlet 'elephant trunk'. This allows the crankase pressure to still be vented (essential) but will prevent vacuum at idle causing low pressure in the turbo, which in conjunction with the reduced back pressure from the decats can cause oil to seep past the rear turbo seal. To check which way the valves flow, simply blow through them. It should be impossible to suck air through in the opposite direction. Make sure air can flow from cam covers to elephant trunk. Fitting performance exhaust systems & decats is well-known to cause previously non-smoky turbos to smoke. This is just a trade-off for increased performance if your turbos aren't particularly new or in top shape. The same can occur if you leave a turbocharged car idling for very long periods which also causes low pressure in the turbo. I've personally never had to use the One Way Valve trick, whenever I've had a turbo go down it's just an excuse to fit something much bigger :D Give it a go and see if it helps at all. Bear in mind that it's a band-aid fix for tired turbos. The 200sx suffers from this when fitting aftermarket systems, and the OWV trick works well on those cars.

I might have a temporary solution for your smoking issues. Is it only on idle, and are your breathers in the standard configuration? Might work for you Cyberbean as well :)

The idle will still rise, it's governed by the ECU. I've completely removed my aircon, relay & fuse too. When the switch is pressed, the AC flag is still activated and the idle speed increases as normal :)

Hello Midlanders (and anyone else lurking about)! Just wondering what kind of interest there is for a rolling road day? Any car welcome, not just Zeds. Prices would be £35 for club members, £40 for non-members. CheerZ.

Still managed to put the front wheels on the wrong side.

Well, was going to be heading to Pod but I've been informed it's snowing on the A14. Therefore, sat inside converting ECUs waiting for an MR2 to arrive for injector upgrade, fuel rail modification & Power FC installation. Pretty sure this time last year it was about 30°C.

Exactly like that :D Brilliant. Once I've gone as far as I can with the stock set up, I'll be looking to run top-feed injectors JECS or DSM injectors, top-mount turbos (could even test that set up with stock turbos to start with) and of course a single-entry intake manifold.

Haha, needed plenty of mapping though!

Did a bit of road mapping before the heavens opened. Was hoping to get to Santa Pod, but not enough time.

Crikey! Only got the car back at 2am this morning :)

The thing about injector duty, it only becomes an issue at the top of the rev range with stock 370cc injectors. A typical VG30DETT makes peak power at 5800-6000RPM. Injector duty at this point is only around 75% at well over 400bhp. This is how it's possible to make good power from the small stock turbos once you've increased engine breathing efficiency, which in turn reduces BSFC, which is a ratio for describing how much power is produced for the fuel consumed. BSFC = fuel/power, therefore decreasing BSFC by increasing efficiency results in more power for the same amount of fuel, or better fuel consumption for the same power. One Zed I worked with, fitted with the dreaded boost jets, uprated turbos & stock 370cc injectors meant that I had to reduce the RPM limit to ensure a suitable amount of headroom was available for fueling. These turbos didn't choke the same way as stock turbos, and as there was no way of reducing the boost level or increasing fuel pressure on that particular car, lowering the rev limit was the only way to go.

Indeed, that is what they felt like both on the road and on the dyno. I've got the logs, they pulled about 125 on the load scale at 17psi. Max load value the ECU is mapped to from factory is 88 (fueling) & 96 (timing). The power figure is simply a consequence of a specific amount of air being injested by the engine at a certain RPM. They're definitely not larger turbos, they dropped off quite a bit at higher revs, as expected. Mine only used to hit 115 at 21psi with no real mods other than air filters & backboxes. As you had mentioned track time to me, it was mapped with that in mind. Little bit extra fueling top end and a little less timing all round. The main thing was to get it running spot on for you so you could experience a properly tuned Zed. Glad you like it! ^^This :) Due to the cost of a Selin set up, and the fact that in the US everyone states it's not needed until 450-500bhp, means it's an overlooked modification. Fact is, separating the intakes makes a huge amount of difference, both to spool & power/torque. My own car was set at 1.4 bar at WOT with single intake & twin air filters. With the dual short intakes, it hit 1.5 bar on part throttle before I let off the accelerator. Really does free things up :D

Depends where I decide to take it I guess. For me, a Dyno-Queen showcase car is not such a bad thing. I'll never strip it out so it will always be usable on the roads, though. It's going to be one of my daily drivers for quite some time. My MR2 was usable enough until I fitted a non-silenced 3.5" pipe off the T78 straight out the side!

500bhp is nothing for a Jap 6cyl engine IMO. If I do eventually get time to fit some monster turbos to a stock VG, I'll be going for silly figures.

Easiest way is to get a diagnostic check done on it. Saves messing around and will either tell you exactly which sensor is the issue, or rule them all out which would then point to a mechanical issue.

Dear Silverline, please fabricate for me a centre-feed single intake plenum so I can have twin top mounted HX35s or BW S200s. I'll need suitable exhaust manifolds as well :) If I can squeeze 487bhp out of a completely stock 2L 3SGTE, just think what can be done with a stock 3L VG30DETT and some proper turbos :thumbup: Cheers :biggrin:

I despise the M6 :headvswal

22mm

Can't trust anyone. I would only ever use Scholar or Chesman, personally.

Indeed I can, that's how my own car is set up.

"NOZ": The 3 letters I used to put at the top of the high score tables on arcade machines in my youth.