Noz

Boy did I nearly forget about this!

My silly-coloured Fiat Uno MK2 turbo. I was genuinely upset when I sold it, even though I had a 350bhp Sapphire Cosworth. The damn thing used to leave me stranded on a regular basis, but it sat happily up the backside of a Supra at 140mph. I think I miss my Cosworth more now though. I don't think I could ever 'feel' anything for a Japanese car in the same way. They just do everything so well. Unlike an old turbocharged Ford or Fiat. You have to love 'em, else you'd just torch 'em :laugh:

Nothing will be pushed, that's not how I do things and I only go chasing numbers whilst investigating limits in my own vehicles when I'm being a Dyno Queen :sorcerer: However, I should address the use of the word "safe" here. Given the modifications to the engine in question, BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) throughout the entire rev range will be reduced, meaning more power produced for the same rate of fuel consumed, (or greater economy at the same power). BSFC = fuel consumption rate / power. The 1hp per cc at 100% is based on a BSFC of 0.57 that is too high for the modern turbocharged engine... System reliability is paramount and the first concern for any tuner worth their salt, but it's simply not feasible to state 555cc injectors are at "max duty" at a certain power level and to state "safe limits" & max power etc without considering other factors first. It's OK as a very loose rule-of-thumb, but alluding to anything over 500bhp in this configuration being unsafe could be a bit misleading :) Even without the tech, I'm sure everyone will agree now that 400bhp is easily attainable with stock 370cc injectors at stock fuel pressure (43.5psi) with a safe IDC (Injector Duty Cycle). Multiply this by 1.5 (555/370) and you get the potential for 600bhp's worth of fuel... My car made 394bhp with just HKS air filters, backboxes, lots of boost on the stock 370cc injectors with a peak reported IDC of 94% (it was lower than this in fact). Very inefficent with a large amount of backpressure running stock cats. Similar cars run more power at less boost once the thermal efficiency of the engine is improved (exhaust systems, dual intakes, intercoolers, headwork etc). Silverline, doesn't your own car make 420bhp on stock 370cc injectors? At the same fuel pressure & BSFC 555s would therefore supply enough fuel for 630bhp! Years ago I ran over 400bhp (382@hubs) on a 1.8L using 4 x 510cc at 40psi (=489cc). Now that was tickling the limits ;) For a simple calculator to play around with various figures, see here (bottom of page): http://www.stealth316.com/2-air-fuel-flow.htm Stock 370cc, 90% IDC, BSFC=0.6: BHP = 317.15 (0.6 = "typical turbocharged engine", except it isn't! 0.6 is for a richly-fuelled non-intercooled turbocharged engine. Too high for the average VG30DETT) Stock 370cc, 90% IDC, BSFC=0.5: BHP = 380.58 (Much closer to reality) Stock 370cc, 94% IDC, BSFC=0.5: BHP = 397.48 (My car for example) Nismo 555cc, 90% IDC, BSFC=0.5: BHP = 570.86 A single intake will likely be the limiting factor (again, the exact BHP & corresponding voltage is dependant on engne efficiency), dual intakes free up a lot of power way before this point though. Well, got a bit of work to do first before the dyno. Enough time for one lucky champion to bribe me to produce the figure they want :whistling:

Amazing cars. Love mine, it's scarily fast (1.9 bar) and good on fuel too. It's no toy, would need 130+ for my Zed to pass Baby Godzirra :laugh:

Can I play?

First thing you should do when you get issues such as this is perform a diagnostic check. If that tells nothing, you need to isolate the problem cylinder by deduction. Get a long screwdriver and check all the injectors are working (audible click-click-click). Remove each coil pack one-by-one as already stated. P.S. Did you mean "Tesco"? Nothing wrong with Tesco fuel. I wouldn't bother listening to a garage that tells you something like that :)

How much were they? When the nearside lambda sensor went down on mine, I did away with them totally and ran open loop 100% of the time. I've found that I can get a more stable AFR than using O2 feedback every time, plus it lets me achieve close to 30mpg on a run, running at a leaner 16+:1 AFR with the appropriate timing :)

As I love all things Japanese, after a long time searching I got hold of an original Citizen Astrodea. It's from the first run and has the titanium bezel, case & strap. [ATTACH=CONFIG]69197[/ATTACH]

As I love all things Japanese, after a long time searching I got hold of an original Citizen Astrodea. It's from the first run and has the titanium bezel, case & strap.

Taxed it.

Hmmm, the TTs run just fine on BCR8ES which are about as far away length-wise as possible from the stock OEM plugs, and 2 grades colder. BKR7E work perfectly as well :)

Same as my experience: UPS & Fedex. My UPS driver told me never to mark anything as "fragile", it just draws attention to it and all the people in the sorting offices/warehouses are on minimum wage and likely to take an interest :(

A regular 255lph Walbro is not an upgrade on the Zed. I've found them to be noisy (I've run them in many different cars and have one currently in the Pulsar), but never had one fail on me.

That's at 12V i.e. whilst priming. It's 455lph at the nominal 30psi fuel pressure & 13.5v supply voltage of a running engine, 381lph at 60psi (approx 16.5psi of boost pressure at standard fuel pressure on a Zed).

Sure it wasn't USPS? Not good if Yodel are in cahoots with UPS, Yodel are shockingly bad.

Yes, you can use Datascan to determine the voltage outputs from them, which is what's important. Lambda sensors can fail without throwing a code.

P.S. I'm heading to the West Mids tomorrow if you're in need :laugh:

If it's a manual UK TT ECU with stock chip then the O2 activation temp is even lower at 25°C. Lean/rich voltages the same as above. It could be an issue with an O2 sensor. There is a simple ECU diagnostic check you can perform (I may have posted the sequence elsewhere) which gives fault codes and O2 sensor switching. Alternatively, you can get a full diagnostic check done.

I guess they all get it wrong! I've never once had an issue with UPS or Fedex, thank God! :lol: :lol:

There was no sarcasm at all, you asked a question which I am able to answer and I gave as much info as possible :)

UPS mate. Only ever use either them or Fedex, and Fedex only for certain countries as they are expensive for some territories.

The ECU is in closed loop mode at idle above a certain temperature, ie O2 sensors are activated at idle: For a stock JDM Auto ECU 41P13: O2 activation temp is 50°C; lean trigger voltage 0.21v; rich trigger voltage 0.58v Let me know if you've got a different ECU and I can check the specifics. The 2000rpm is an arbitrary value specified for diagnostic purposes in order to achieve approx 1 change rich to lean (or vice versa) every 2 seconds, and to ensure no other sensors (eg IACV) have a bearing on the results.

Hello & welcome! Pics :D

The figures on that data sheet seem off. At approx 26.5 psi positive boost pressure with a stock 13.5V feed, fuel delivery rate of 250lph is not enough for 790 bhp as it states. Not even 790 USbhp. Walbro have a 400lph one available now. Good old TT.Net :laugh:

Trust me, no one would use the C20 map I've got in the US without race fuel. Well, not for very long at any rate. How much can you get race fuel for? In all fairness, you don't even know what map is in the ECU. Just because it has a sticker on the front, you don't know what the chip contains. Have it analysed and then you'll have all the info you'll need.