Noz

Spin Doctor, did you buy it believing it was the genuine product? You didn't know they were fakes, right?

Fit a standalone ECU that does away with the MAF sensor.

From the "Bee*R Super Website" :lol: Whoa! "Fire or fatal accident". Is this the kind of "bang for your buck" people are looking for? :laugh: I don't know what's worse, the Japanese calling it a "Limitter" in the first place (almost as bad as the HKS Fuel Cut Defencer it'sawhatnow?) or the Chinese ripping them off and not being able to get it right :chinese: :slap:

It means they aren't genuine ones, which is what people paid for. They are nothing like turbos, which are solely mechanical components and can't be compared in any way, really. Everyone knows what a Chinese turbo looks like, and the possible issues that may arise. The only reason this came to light is because one of the units from the source you posted in this thread didn't work. Neither did the Chinese turbo timer that was suplied by the same person, apparently (Apexi, I think, was only mentioned briefly). Faulty items were obviously removed and the Bee*Replica checked next to a genuine item.

OBDII so Datascan II for the 2.2 DCI. I'd go for swapping the MAF then if you've not got the diagnostic kit to hand :D

EML illuminated means a DTC will be stored. May be worth pulling the codes before buying any parts, just to be sure.

You mean eBay ID "semiconductor01"? Although the item is stated as being in USA, he's based in Poland. They are most likely snides too, and he's sold 522 of them. He sells Chinese Takata racing harnesses and A's Dev daughterboards (copied from H Dev). Been around for years, started up when I was on SXOC. The picture he's posted on his listing is of a FAKE item, which is why yours looks identical ;) See here for confirmation of what the FAKE units look like on the inside: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?717306-BEE-R-rev-limiter-on-7MGTE-help A guy over at DW opened up a genuine item: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/173036-fao-electronics-types-modifying-bee-r-not-fully-cut-when-above-specified-limit.html Blue switches: Fake Black switches: Genuine (for now...) There are different versions about, though, maybe Bee*R started less populated PCBs with an additional IC to cut down on assembly costs. The more I look into this, the more it seems that most people own Chinese replicas. The ones in this thread will have been bought from the cheapest supplier, even Chinese replicas have varying levels of quality. If you're buying Chinese, don't automatically go for the cheapest version. Some Chinese items even come from the same factory as the "official" items. Also, replicas sold at official prices no longer appear to be replicas, which is typically the way when a popular item is first copied. Then the price war starts, and soon it's obvious which ones are fake!

The fake in question: The genuine article: FAKES have long looped wires with no heatshrink. Other differences include how far the LED protudes from the casing, the colour shades of the 3 adjusting knobs and the position of the screws on the underside. Damn, he told you they were genuine. That's low.

That's not good, but not exactly surprising, either.

They need to be adjusted to the point that stalling does not occur. That is all that matters :) If they subsequently don't dump the pressure & make the noises you want, then it's a simple choice of either noise or stall. Remember, when the engine stalls because of unmetered air, it is because the cylinders are briefly flooded with fuel. Every single time. That fuel has to go somewhere....

So, Mr Funky.... Are you "loving some of this" now?

Wee notice to anyone unlucky enough to buy Bee R rev limiters from Mr Cropley. They are snides. Fresh from China. Main reason I'm posting this is that I don't want Howard fitting this piece of crap as part of his amazing build :no: Placed one side-by-side with a genuine example today and there are obvious differences. Plus, the fake didn't work properly (hence it had been removed, not by me). Packaging is completely different, too. If you HAVE to fit one, at least get a genuine one. These items control your engine's rev limit! RRP is here: http://www.nengun.com/bee-r/rev-limiter Bulk price for 12 is £1389.27, or £115 each. You're not getting genuine for circa £80 I'm afraid. Plus, the seller has disclosed they are from China, 100% :laugh: If you must buy China, buy direct @ "fotty-fiy dorrar": http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rev-Limiter-BEE-R/324363_254708643.html :chinese: You got rinsed. I would be :cursing: Be careful out there....

I run with no intake pipes. It's pretty swish :laugh:

I think it's ECU-dependent. I've not really looking into it, though. Some ECUs with code 34 will switch from knock maps to regular immediately just by forcing the ECU to ignore knock sensor DTC. Others, you need to switch the ignition off first... On the odd problem car I've had (or ones with aftermarket knock sensors), I just tune the knock maps as it makes zero difference in the end.

That's 2" pipework, not 2.5". I've never said it's all about cubic inches, it isn't. Minimal pressure drop & cooling capabilities are the factors most important. ??

Need to sort out the colour of your name! You have no powahz anymore!

Bloody hell, sorry to hear of all the issues you're having. Sniffer test & compression test first on the list of things to do.

Interested if & when it's for sale.

Quoted for truth.

The difference is I can read & understand fully everything you've just written. It doesn't matter to me in the slightest if someone can spell or not. It's just hard work when trying to diagnose a techincal issue. If someone has a problem with spelling or grammar to the point where people are genuinely unable to understand them, they can use bullet points, photos, external links etc. If it's really that bad. You've got to make an effort, at least.

The only thing I don't understand is the final question mark?

Excessive bore wash occurs when a cylinder doesn't fire, or average mixtures are incredibly rich (as in It's definitely better to just get in the car & drive though.

It can give a possible indication, but anything could have been programmed onto the chip, it's impossible to state with certainty until you pull the file and analyse it. You just never know...

Temporary Manual Boost Controller. Names on the chip or ECU aren't important. You need to know exactly what's programmed on the chip.

Even taking the 3psi difference into consideration, a 75% duty cycle is way too high in this instance. 75% on a Profec should be netting relatively high boost in any circumstance, definitely higher than 13.2psi. Even then, it doesn't explain the overly rich condition. I'd be going through the usual: Boost leak check, confirm the map, datalogging, fit a temp MBC (they are a great diagnostic tool for EBC and boost pressure issues).