lymon

yes it's basically the same on all MT's Nissan partnumber 32005-21U10 it's not very expensive new

>> How much work will it be to fit a pair of s14 coolers to replace my zed ones? probably not worth the effort since the inlet/outlets/endtanks need to be modified to be able to fit these. There are a few Zeds here in Holland that use Renault 5 GTT ic's, but also a lot of welding and modifications needed to make these fit. About the same size as the HKS ones. >> designed for for a 2 litre lump the zed is 33% bigger than that and therefore will need more air flow not quite. you basically have two *seperate* 1.5ltr engines. the biggest restrictions is usually in the piping to from the intercooler(s). Every 90 degree bend (and a Zed with smic's has many 90 degree bends in the intake system) is like adding over 15 feet of straight pipe...

yes, it's possible with a manual gearbox, but not worth it IMHO. you need to drop the subframe slightly and need a crane that can lift high enough and supports the weigth of both gearbox + engine

>> the car has been chipped,air filter hks evc and an earthing kit good time to invest in upgrading the brakes first !

No, the conzult interface (hardware) won't work with the datascan software (or vice versa) -Eric

check the connector on the CAS as well...it's not uncommon that it just falls off or comes loose, because the metal clip has gone.

almost, part 2 ;) >> an aftermarket chip with no det maps will not retard the ignition timing. wrong, it will retard ignition, no matter what chip you have, unless the knock routines in the code were disabled on purpose (afaik there's no chip around that has this) or when you have bypassed the det. sensor. Once the ECU detects knock it will retard timing 1 degree. if knock still occurs, it will retard the timing another degree and it will continue doing this for a few times. If at that point the engine's still knocking it will revert to the safetyboost maps and it will turn down the boost (unless you have a EBC) to save the engine from damage.

> the engine is now out so i don't know if i can (or how) to do a wet test. bolt the gearbox back to the engine and power the starter with a battery.

the same car (owned/tuned by greg dupree) in a even quicker 9.9 sec run: http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/2006Drags/greg9record.wmv also nice...11.4 sec on stock turbos ! (no NOS) http://www.askthedrunk.com/seedyrom/2006Drags/mikeyrecord.wmv

>> What i was wondering is, could it be the wastegates stuck open and not letting the turbines spin up ? in theory, yes although I have never seen a wastegate flapper stuk open...let alone the wastegates from both turbos. i have seen severly cracked turbine housing and shattered or stuck turbine wheels causing low or no boost. >>What would happen if we bypassed the wastegate solonoid valve and just put the vacum pipe with no "T" straight on to the wastegate actuator, would it hold it open or shut ???? in that case you wouldn't be able to boost over 7 psi. (safetyboost). You can try blowing compressed air into the hoses running to the actuators and see if the actuator rods move (sometimes you can also hear the flapper closing/opening) one other thing you can try is to remove the lower intercooler hoses (the ones connecting to the turbo elbow pipes) start the engine (it will run very rough), rev it a little and feel if there is any air coming out of either turbo elbow pipe. ...or, (but this involves more work) measure the boost coming from each turbo, by connecting a seperate boostgauge to each elbow pipe.

I presume you still have a standard chip and that's what probably saved you from a very large repair bill. As most aftermarket chips have removed this protection and in a case like this your engine would have gone bang.

have you checked the oil level ?

Have the PCV valves been replaced yet ?

just get the car back to the stock configuration (connect all hoses back to where they belong and reconnect the stock wastegate actuator solenoids), also do a boostleak test Then see if the boost is back to normal....if it isn't you have a problem with a turbo or there's something wrong with the exhaust/cats (blocked in some way)

No, you can't use that kit for the rear calipers.

remove the alluminium stroke stopper on the far end of the HICAS power cylinder that you were able to remove , so you can get more grip on the rod within the power cylinder and keep it from rotating (on the other side.) http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=51&design=default&total=98 usually that does the trick.

>> My compression are now 9.5:1 >> I took my self the compresio with hot engine. How did you measure your compression ration ? since this is quite complicated and involves measuring/calculating the total volume of the cylinder and combustion chamber above the piston at BDC, divided by the combustion chamber volume above the piston at TDC. For this you need to have the engine apart, so I'm not sure how you were able to do this "with hot engine" ?

depends on how much it overheated, but a common thing on overheated zeds is a melted detonation sensor, so if this is this case it obviously needs to be replaced. replace all coolant hoses around the engine, waterpump, thermostat and RMS at the very least. most likely the engine mounts need to be replaced as well. and if you can afford it, I'd recommend to have a new main wiring harness installed, while the engine is out....can save you from a lot of trouble in the near future. -Eric

make sure the wastegate actuator solenoids are connected. If the car has had a boost controller fitted in the past (by a previous owner), these solenoids are most likely disconnected.

a faulty temp. sensor will put you in safety boost.

Leigh, I've got another link somewhere (also japanese) from someone that has used the roberuta's on both front and rear...he also had a much larger drop with the system in it's lowest position.(almost as low as the lowrider posted in this thread) Will try to find the link this evening. Unfortunately the roberuta system is VERY expensive. anyway, here's another one, also japanese...using a pressured air based system. http://www.geocities.jp/jimiguruma/airsasu.html

>> We could easily get statisically significant data through web based polls on the life of various items. actually there not many that have owned the car for over a considerable amount of time or know exactly what has been replaced/done in the past by the previous owner(s). I work on Zeds a lot and I lost count of the number of cars that already had the engine out (for whatever reason) in the past and of which the current owner did know nothing about....not to mention other parts that may have been replaced in the past. So...i think it's hard to create a detailed overview on the expected lifetime of important parts, unless you are 100% sure the item has not been replaced before. -Eric

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~tq6n-ymd/roberuta/roberuta.html

no, certainly not worst case scenario ! this is when running ~12 psi with stock intercoolers on a normal day as soon as you run above the efficiency range of the stock turbos (>14psi) you don't want to know what the intake temps are !! ( >130 Celcius !)

>> Is this going to be another problem or is it related to my alternator fault? measure the voltage acros the battery terminals when the engine is running.. if the voltage is below 10V it explains the petrol smell: the ECU will revert to one of it's failsafe levels to keep the injectors running, since the injectors actually need around 14V to have them flow the exact amount of fuel they were made for.