JeffTT

Steel pipe is standard, hence why it corrodes, not sure if alloy pipe is available in that size, would certainly be easier to bend !! Jeff

PFR6B -11C UK spec plug PFR6B-11 ( without the C ) are fitted as stock to Jap import TT and Non turbo for use in Japan. Jeff

You need to fit one of these : to the back of the alternator, between the main power feed and the earth of the alternator, bit of a pain as you will need to remove it to get to it, however be easier when your doing the manual conversion. As an alternative you could try moving the earth point to any amplifiers or the crossover if it is a powered active one, also check the earth to the back of the head unit is connected, this can be missed and it then relies on the earth through the aerial which can be problematic, finally if your using phono line out fit a line suppressor after the head unit before it goes into any amps or crossovers. Jeff

Although posted before its worth a mention, the non turbo had almost the same clutch yet did not have a booster but a different design clutch pedal and master cylinder with more leverage. A common fault with the tt boosters is they leak, causing odd running issue`s at first and then fail completely so there is no assistance and often get blanked off then due to increased running issue from leaking vacuum and a heavy clutch feel is what is left. The boosters are silly money from Nissan ( circa £400 ) and given not many good ones come up second hand because they should be sold with a manual conversion, however the cost of a new non turbo master cylinder and non turbo clutch pedal assembly is half that of a new booster, and having done several conversions this way can confirm the pedal is as light as a TT with booster?? Nissan over engineering for the TT I guess. Splitting the vacuum from the balancer bar from one outlet to the brakes and clutch is a bad idea, if the clutch booster fails you will loose brake booster assistance too, not nice to find that out on a downhill section, also there can be a weird feeling when braking and dipping the clutch at the same time when the two boosters are demanding vacuum, always fit the correct balancer bar and separate vacuum feeds with two different check valves. Jeff

An alternator not fitted with a suppressor will produce a whining sound, rising in pitch as the engine speed increases, also earth loop inpedance issue`s can cause the the same where the earth point used is not as good as the battery earth. Also less expensive audio components can be badly shielded so badly sometimes they produce their own interference from bad designed internal power units. Here is a good read on the subject: http://www.mp3car.com/car-audio-faq/79248-induced-noise-ground-loop-trouble-shooting-guide.html Jeff

You will be fine with them, used them myself for parts. Jeff

No that`s brake line, you need 10mm pipe with compression line connectors that have olive seals in them, most likely need to find a hydraulic pipe supplier in your area. Jeff

Yes that will do it, unfortunately it has slipped my mind which one but its a Vauxhall one think an Astra , may look a slightly different but fits fine and will do the job, the make of the company is First Line ( they make loads of stuff ) come in a box of two with cable ties ready to fit. One tip, when releasing the track rod end to change the gaiter, the usually method to release the ball joint taper after loosening the nut is to to strike the hub body around the ball joint to shock it loose, can take a couple of hits, before getting close to hitting anything remove the abs sensor and tie it up out of the way,otherwise you risk the shock been transmitted into the sensor and breaking it. Jeff

The main problem Lee is the route the original pipes take, really a mare to get right, running a simpler route may be possible and couple up at different points, you could even get high pressure 10 mm hoses made up at a hydraulics place, for me I would repair the damaged area only or do a hicas delete, depends on if your doing it on a ramp or at home. Jeff

You can buy 10mm pipe with connectors and make up a repair section, needs to be up in the air though lee, 10 mm pipe not the easiest to bend though, still cheaper than new Nissan sections, another option is to remove the hicas and the pipes become redundant. Jeff

Trouble with Zed breakers most of the hicas / steering pipes will look like this : Jeff

If you just have a leak at one point then you cut and fit a 10 mm line connector. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic-Straight-Metric-Tube-Equal-Compression-Fitting-Coupling-Pipe-Joiner-G-/251226630053?var=&hash=item3a7e4627a5:m:mI8cZ3-fLseBdj6PPnq2KkQ Jeff

The link you have for the front drop links is wrong that`s for a Z31 ! These are the correct ones: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-90-94-FRONT-STABILIZER-DROP-LINK-BAR-2-/190466910097 The genuine Nissan steering gaiters are very expensive in my view for what is effectively a rubber boot, a motor factor will be able to supply at vastly reduced price under a tenner for pattern part. Jeff

Looks like the drain pipe for the ac evaporator tray, when using the ac in Summer an amount of condensation forms on the evaporator and needs to drain away to outside of the car. Behind the ecu is a large rubber bung that the pipe passes through into the engine bay and when in place the end it turned down, often the water from this can worry owners thinking they have a water leak. Jeff

Sad reflection on how many cars are run these days, for sure when that owner ever sells that car he will describe it as wanted for nothing, lovingly maintained and valeted weekly.........argh!!! Good call for the owner though well noticed !! Jeff

Begs the question how much quicker do you actually want !! Jeff

Could not possibly say !

Not an uncommon issue, often the hazard switch is the culprit, if it is not fully back in the off position it locks out the normal indicators, this is also often made worse by the fixings behind the pod that the hazard switch is fitted to giving rise to the very problem. Try flicking the hazard switch on / off and be sure it comes back towards you, then try the normal indicator, sometimes its easier to have the ignition on and the turn signal on either left or right and then flick pull back on the hazard switch to see if the normal indicators then work, failing that of course it could be the fuse but not likely especially if the problem occurred after the hazard switch was used or messed with. Jeff

Not too bad as its flat bottomed and if you remove the torque converter with the box very little fluid loss, still bloody heavy mind, lower down on a trolley jack. Jeff

Not too bad as its flat bottomed and if you remove the torque converter with the box very little fluid loss, still bloody heavy mind, lower down on a trolley jack. Jeff

Yep, or disconnect the autobox ecu, also the autobox ecu could potentially be faulty I guess. Jeff

Yep, or disconnect the autobox ecu, also the autobox ecu could potentially be faulty I guess. Jeff

Heads up you will need to use the non turbo master cylinder as well. Jeff

Heads up you will need to use the non turbo master cylinder as well. Jeff

Yes they are expensive especially given the non brake light one is sooo much cheaper and has all of the moulding in there, pity the area where the light shows through is too dark to convert it. Jeff