JeffTT

Oh yes :D Jeff TT

Needless to say the engine this turbo came from was smoking like an old steam train, see whats wrong? Incidently never found the missing bits, not even down the exhaust? Jeff TT

Take a look at the amount of weights on the rear wheel of a zed I looked at last week, the wheels were almost brand new with brand new tyres, however both unbranded, adds up to 180grams! maybe just a bad casting on the wheel or banding on the tyre but I think its more to do with the low cost deals you see on the internet these days, quality has to be effected somewhere along the line. Jeff TT

That is the wastgate solenoid connector as you said, assuming your zed has all the correct cables/ connectors as it should then the other part of that plug is hanging down below the area your looking at, may need to remove some pipes etc. to access it. The pipe which is plugged is to the EGR valve actuator and in no problem having it disconnected. Jeff TT

Injectors can be checked electrical with a test meter set on ohms, this will give you the resistive value, compare it to a working one, if it has no resistance and has gone "open circuit " then it is truely dead then. As the ecu has had some work recently make sure the big blue connector is in square as if not a bad or no connection on one of the pins for the injectors is common. 1) Check ecu connector 2) So test electrical resistance 3) 15psi will not of killed it. 3) Plenum off if replacement required ..doh! Jeff TT

Bad connection on tps / aux air valve sticking, defo not the thermostat. Jeff TT

Hi there, A little bit of knowledge always has the potential to mystify! The 12 volt reading you are getting at both terminals when the injectors are connected is completely correct, I will explain, the 12v supply is entering the coil windings of the injector and feeding back out through the other side, this is the side that when switched off is isolated from any outputs from the ecu so your volt meter /tester will pick it up, once the engine is cranked then earth pulse signals come down the output cables which is why the readings your getting changes. The tester you are using is not really fully compliant with testing injectors, what you really need is a noid light set, this react to the pulses and light up in sequence with the outputs, volt meters especially the old swing needle ones are too slow. Noid lights also show any signal strength differences between injectors by virtue of their brightness. Hope hat helps Jeff TT

No genuine Nissan only. Jeff TT

Your very welcome :D Jeff TT

Yes not too hard, you will need another door module like in the drivers side, this is the unit that electronically gives you the one touch operation. A small amount of additional circuit work would be required (2 x relays ) to enable the auto one touch operation as the passenger switch does not have the extra contact that the drivers door one does, however it would give one touch operation for the passenger window from both the drivers and passenger position. The module has 8 contact points 1) 12v+( battery) 2) 12v ign 3) 0v 12v A trigger one touch UP mode ( earth pulse) B trigger one touch DOWN mode ( earth pulse ) C trigger Extra button contact ( relay switch-over connection required ) between A / B trigger P1 Window motor UP output supply P2 Window motor DOWN output supply You could reduce the extra relay by one if you only want one touch on down. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron. The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door. Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece. Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems. Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from. Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet. Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation. Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection. Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door. Happy fixing :D Jeff TT

All tight Overview of new belt fitted but NOT tensioned Now attention moves to the tensioner and the 10mm bolt that was used to compress the tensioner whilst the belt was changed, here the tensioner is still held completely in Now check ALL of the timing marks, twice, and once again, remove the bull clips at the top Undo the 10m bolt with a spanner, observe any movement at the tensioner, a slight amount will be seen but not fully yet, ensure the bolt is removed completely, Turn the engine forwards one half rotation, then back one half rotation, now turn forward until the timing marks on the cams and the back plate line up approx. and of course the bottom sprocket, this should show more accurately (NOTE the belt marks will NOT line up at this point ) The gap in the photo is too small, approx. double that amount is preferred, if after turning the gap is incorrect the adjuster base setting on the block will need adjusting, this requires the 10 mm bolt to be refitted in the adjuster and tightened only enough to maintain the gap you have, loosen the 12mm bolts on the adjuster slightly, swing the adjuster block to loosen the belt slightly then retighten, now remove the 10mm bolt again and turn he crank observing the gap again. Here overview showing all in place tensioned and belt position showing the writing at the top right cams, one more final check of the timing marks and that's it. Hope that helps guys, Jeff TT

Having previously prepared the new belt marks and the reference marks on the top back plates, cam sprockets and crank sprocket the belt can be loosely fitted. Starting at the right hand cam sprockets feed the belt on ensuring the marks line up, (TIP use bulldog clips or similar to hold the belt in place on each sprocket) most times this leaves the last cam sprocket on the left not lined up, use grips or similar to turn the sprocket slightly until it lines up, REMEBER and I cannot mention this enough, to be lining the BELT marks with the SPROCKET marks and NOT the back plate, they where only for reference, there is a set teeth count between the various timing marks and this is why the belt markings against the cams is the important settings, in fact the back plate markings will not all line up with the belt later do not concern yourself with this provided the belt/cams are ok The belt is in place and clipped Overview of total belt fit ( loosely) with clips in place. So now to the bottom sprocket, this is where most mistakes are made as the belt timing line is almost out of view from above, now the tipex marking on the edge of the belt makes sense, as shown the belt is still loose and the bottom sprocket is NOT lined up As the top of the belt is held in place by the clips the cranks can be turned slightly till the marks line up. Bottom sprocket lined up. Time now to start taking the slack out of the belt but ensure the belt does not slip. Introduce the tensioner pulley complete with 17mm headed fixing bolt, use the pulley to keep the belt tight as the pulley bolt is tightened make sure the belt does not slip Tensioner bolt been tightened, belt almost done Part 3 on next thread Jeff TT

The following write up is not a detailed cam belt swap far from it, as requested by Andy Gp this just deals with the actual method of timing of the belt when replacing with a new one, the engine in question is in a scrapper we use for photo purposes hence the belt is all I have concentrated on. Here we have an old belt fitted with all of the reference timing marks highlighted Here we have the crank sprocket, this is where most mistakes are made due to the marks been low down and less easy to see. Left hand cams up close showing reference timing marks Right hand cams up close showing reference timing marks Bottom sprocket showing timing marks Preparation now, the new cambelt comes with all of the timing marks set out on the back of the belt in a yellow colour. A little trick is to mark the edge of the belt in line with the original marks with tipex, the reason for this will come apparent later. cambelt timing marks cambelt timing belt + tipex cambelt timing belt + tipex Go to next post for part two Jeff

Hi lads yes just got resize the photos and finish the end text so will e-mail to you later, will post it here too. Jeff

Check with your insurance again, vandal attack and attempted theft sometimes does not always effect your no claims. Jeff TT

£10 matey, got em on the shelf. Jeff TT

Cambelt photo`s ?? was it done at Zedworld then? if so pm me the reg number and will check out the data base for replacements. Jeff TT

Well Craigs urgency to contact me yesterday on the forum led me to believe he needed to know asap. hence the thread and the pm. Jeff TT

....so I will make sure you have all the info you need for then with pictures etc.:D Jeff TT

Hi matey, Have PMed you. Cheers :D Jeff TT

Andy, Andy, Andy :headvswal what you like eh? Ok no worries easy to sort this for you, when you putting this back together? will be easier for me to go through it on the phone as you dod it, taht way no mistakes will be made. Call me or mail me your number and will sort out when your doing it and arrange a phone call at the appropriate time. If that is unworkable for you, will write you a step by step in a real world explaination not workshop manual speak and mail it to you, let me know what you prefer. Jeff jeff@zedworld.co.uk

Here you go Phill as promised photo`s of the universal seal before and after fitting, there is still some slight adjustment required to the final fit with some extra soapy water the seal will sit even neater. Jeff TT

No expert on wheels but its very possible a wheel company could machine the face of the wheel hub ( assuming enough material there) to move the wheel inwards, got to worth an ask. Jeff

The solenoids are as you mentioned operated by the auto box ecu, all of the solenoids are testable for resistance value and so are the cable to the box/ecu. Dealing with the testing values does need some level of electrical competance and understanding and of course a suitable test meter. I will get you the exact data from the workshop in the morning but in essence by identifying each cable serving the individial solenoids the circuit serving them can be tested, assuming there is no cable faults you should be able to read the ohms value of the winding in each solenoids and match them against the correct figures, most of this will be done from the large connectors under the bonnet on the drivers side wing...so no dirty dealing under the car...yet, part two tomorrow :D Jeff TT,