Smithy

Nope, simply remove and replace. I go off to watch the movie and come back and we're all systems go, well done ;) Cas second hand is around 30 quid, though you can test it quite easily and the sensor fron nissan is about 28 quid. Either of these if faulty will stop the car from starting. smithy

Get back out there man, it's still light :p This only takes 10 mins and you'll hopefully know the answer, i wanna get this sorted before bed, lol http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy

Yer don't need a consult mate, whip the ECU out from it's frame, turn teh screw on the side and read the lights, only takes 10 mins. there is a how to on twinturbo.net or even AndyP's site which shows you how. Am off home now, will check in in about 45 mins to see how you got on. you gotta have a code, just gotta :D smithy

Assuming yer sticking with the MAF, 480ish BHP Smithy

Don't disregard the PTU completly even though you have a spare, i've seen a few times at zedworld whereby they have taken a known working spare of a scrappie, swapped over and it never worked, just that simple removing after many years seems to dislodge summit, strange as it sounds. I can remove my series 2 one on monday and send it next day as long as you send it right back, last bloke i sent one to (series 1) kept it and my spare CAS and buggered off, twat! anyway before a test of the CAS, tried ECU diagnostics to see if there any error codes ? smithy

Hmm now that ain't good, certainly had the signs of either flooding or the ECU temp. Righyo, move on to number 2 and 3 next, lol Are yer a series 1 PTU ? anyone nearby to try a swap with you, tried cleaning the PTU connectors/wires. I know of no way test this except for swapping for a goodun. We can test the CAS if yer like, but like i said generally once gone that is it, they are not normally an "intermittant" item. Can you hear the fuel pump buzz up at the back of the car the very second you turn the ignition on ? smithy

:rofl: You'll be sorted mate don't worry.! Did yer clean the ECU temp connector ( both ends) smithy

Ok good, well in a kinda strange way. This means that the electric sub fan ain't working ( and it should) so my money is now on the ECU temp sender unit connector, clean both parts of the connectors as much as possible even scraping with a screw driver if need be and try it again, but still giving a bit of thought to the flooding i mentioned earlier. smithy

Oh one last thought while am at it, lol I know with some Zeds if you are just firing them up from time to time or trying to start them and not actually driving anywhere to get to normal operating temps, they can flood fairly easy and just don't wanna fire up. You can check this by removing the fuel fuse in the small black fuse cover by clutch/brake booster ( clearly marked) once removed, try starting the car, after about the 4th or 5th attempt it should be either started or literally on the edge of starting, you can kinda tell the difference from this and earlier on when it stopped all together. Whipping the front 4 or 5 plugs out and a quick clean would gaurantee a start up if she was flooded, but take her for a spin around the block! smithy

Dam, well that threw me on that idea, lol Okay, even if yer AFM is totally knackered or even unplugged, the car would still start, so discount that area completly ;) Only other 3 main causes of failing to start i can think off is, 1) the ECU temp connector, with the iginition on, unplug this connector and tell us if the electric sub fan comes on. 2) PTU, series 1 ? even after i fitted a series 2 PTU i had the odd occassion where the engine just died, i simply wiggled the connectors andf she fired up. 3) CAS, usually once this goes, it's gone kaput though it is easy to check. An ECU diagnostics would show up any of these 3. smithy

With the warning lights on, is the electric sub fan also running with the ignition on ? smithy

Glad to hear it ;) smithy

Ah my bad, that will teach me not to fully read the bumpf :mac1: smithy

Danny sells the DBA 4000 series as cheap as that mate and with the DS2500 pads cheaper than anywhere else i've seen... smithy

Oh on elast thing :D there arn't any warning lights on the dash that are lit up or the electric sub fan isn't on when the engine is running is it ? ta smithy

Money is deffo on a leak mate, yep it causes engine stall, excess smoke usually black and in some cases when driving it seems to be holding back at a certain point, usually higher up the rev range. As for how much PSI, not too sure as i always have zedworld test mine for me, interesting to watch how they spot the little fookers, lol Someone here must know though. I know Vince and Vijay do their own, so try those guys. smithy

Rightyo, the symtoms to me are very classic for a a minor boost leak. I know you mentioned before about testing for leaks, however leaks can on some occassions be missed. If the car ran pretty much fine before the build and the only addidtion is the induction and injectors, then it should run fine again. Andy's chips have been around for a long time and the car should run great, mapping will and should only improve performance of the engine, not the actual day to day running of things. Did you see scott do a boost leak test ? do you have a tester ? someone around your way should have one, if not pumped up to the correct pressure, a small leak will not really be heard or seen. Double check around the blitz cone, has the gasket been used ? are the securing nuts onto the MAF tightend up, is the MAF secure in it's hosing, is the hosing above it secured properly to the metal pipework. Have you the stock re circs in place ? are these secure ? if you have BOV's, are the plugs secure. Finally it's not uncommon for a garage to misplace a hose or put it on the wrong connection, there are plenty of them and though scott is am sure a great mechanic, a zed specialst instantly knows what goes where and how without even thinking about, so also check those are correct. My money is a leak though ;) smithy

Give us the engine spec again bud and what brand the injectors are and if new or second hand. start at the begining and we may find the answer ;) smithy

Think you really need to go and see it first mate, it may turn out to be just arches and they are quite easy to sort out and for not big money. Go see it, get some advice and take it from there. Good shells arn't really too difficult to find and some zeds are only fetching hundreds because of engine probs and a bit tatty, as long as they are sound underneath, thats all that matters and yes no matter what model, you can pretty much swap everything straight over. smithy

Aye :rolleyes: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=105575) smithy

They are already in. The engine has low compression and rebuilt a 1000 miles ago and a refreshed set of heads is gonna cure it. Yes the parts list is good to look at, but it is second hand and clearly has a problem. Leigh originally wanted a quick zed without the added major expense, hence why i'd fit a pair of t25 hybrids and be done with it. smithy

Based on the vague responce, am still sceptical mate. The zeds heads are not an area that are usually redone on basic rebuilds as they are seldom any trouble. The odd lifter problem perhaps, but that's easily noticeable. It's valves-stem seals and lifters that can be replaced, not really any "other stuff" to speak off. If it was my money and the timescale involved between this an a drive in drive out with new hybrids, i'd go with the latter. However, your ££ and choice mate :) smithy

Must confess am sceptical, rebuilt a 1000 miles ago and now has low compression, rebuild the top end, what, with new valves and lifters for the low compression ? do you know who built it in the 1st place and it comes with a receipt ? smithy

So the engine cost without fitting is £3600 and on top of that your opening it up and rebuilding it again and all te labour costs ? smithy

Lisa, if your thinking in the next year or 2 to fitting bigger injectors and bigger turbo's to chase the higher BHP, then go with the Max. If not, then a 100% the Sport street. The sport feels exactly like a stock unit to both men and women. The Max is a heavier clutch ( it has to be) and most men don't feel much extra pressure on the foot, women however do. Sold over 300 of these before Danny took over for me and never once got my reccommendation wrong ;) As for the other non branded clutches from the US etc, RPS are the only company i am aware off that actually designed their clutches with the aid of a 300zx specialist, Greg dupree. To ensure they meet the requirements that people need. Other non branded stuff is often launched just to better the price of it's competitor, but not actually being a better product! hth smithy