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Smithy

Dormant Member
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Everything posted by Smithy

  1. Yer not a bodybuilder are yer :D Nowt wrong in a woman having strong legs imo....... smithy
  2. I wouldn't have thought so, but i don't do these things, i have a man who does, lol that said, maybe all air should be out of the system before adjustment etc. Lisa, something deffo ain't quite right still with yours, the MAX especially for a woman is definately heavier.it should not have a low biting point either. Do you know if your mechanic did the adjust exactly as per the link, in particular releasing the locking nuts first ? that is the most important part, otherwise adjustment is all wrong. smithy
  3. Dan what i mean is they are not by any means an agressive cam, as stage upgrades of cams go, the 400 is stage 1, that does not mean that they basic or anything, it's just that Zed cams are pretty good with many high horse powerd zeds leaving them well alone, so a stage 1 cam is still a mighty upgrade. But yes to confirm what legrath was saying, given that they are not mega agressive, a 740cc chip IMO would be perefctly fine to get you running and run the engine in or until you meet up with JD. Bazza's chip would have been more to suit because he is using a more unusual CC injector. For complete peace of mind, just ask JD what he thinks as he knows more about mapping these ECU's than anybody i know :bow: Edit, just read Dan's post, you deffo need to contact JD now, lol smithy
  4. Ditto, always thought the 400 cams were a reground stock and basicaly a stage 1 upgrade, cam wise. A chip to suit the other mods i see no reason why it wouldn't do and certainly long enough to meet up with JD to fine tune it. Pretty sure Andyp can't map a stock ECU he just deals in the chips he's done, but am happy to be corrected :D smithy
  5. Thanks mate, least i got the bit about them looking similar right, lol Oh well just gotta try and get one now. cheers folks smithy
  6. Providing the adjustments are done exactly as per the link wow300 posted up http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm then no extra and later on bleeding should be required. smithy
  7. Oh man and is his a GTR version r33 mate ?? ta smithy
  8. Thats the r32's and GTS's etc mate, they are completly different whereas the r33 MAF is the same design/appearance etc. ( as far as i know, lol) thanks anyways smithy
  9. Anyone know if the skyline GTR33 MAF's are the exact same as the Z32, look like it, but not sure on output and pin connections etc. Got a friend who's getting MAF error codes once engine is hot on their GTR33. Cheers Smithy
  10. I don't think the chip Syko was offering was compatible with the doolz, it was a straight forward 555 chip, so you would have to change your intake to a single version. Ash can be very hard to deal with at times, he was running a special offer on his chips a while ago. You could try DTA motorsport in Holland or simply send your ECU to Z1 (without a chip inside) and ask them to chip it and test it before shipping back to you. I really don't think the problem was Z1's chip, i think it was your fitting, it is very very easy to make a mistake doing it and it basically fries it! smithy
  11. Still the same answer as above mate, there is only 1 way to see if your chip is fried or the ECU itself is fried and thats trying the chip in another ECU. But that is deffo the problem, either the chip or the ECU itself. smithy
  12. Yes and no am afraid mate, but least the problem is in the area i said. tHE only way to know if the chip is faulty is to use it in another ECU and if the aux fan does not come on then the your ECU is at fault. I would suggest though, whilst you may have chipped a Zed before, it is very easy to corrupt a chip when fitting, i've done it twice, lol If you want a gaurantee that the next chip will work, is to send Z1 the ECU for them to fit it as they will test the ECU before and after fitting and before sending back to you. Or send it one of our experts on the forum here in the UK perhaps ? I doubt they would send you another chip because they can only gaurantee it if they fit, hope that makes sense bud. cheers smithy
  13. Okay the most plausible fault for me with this is a corrupted chip or socket in the ECU. Did Z1 supply the chip already fitted to the ECU ? or did you fit this yourself ? If you try this simple test and it comes up code 31, then it is the ECU or chip inside. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html If you do get this code, it might be worth unplugging the ECU and re plugging back in again, it's quite easy to re plug incorrectly. If you have warning lights and the eelctric fan on, it is deffo a fault within the sensor circuit or ECU and nothing to do with what type or CC the injectors are, so before you move on to anything else, you need to eliminate the faults that show. Hope that helps Smithy
  14. Sorry i can't help with that one question as i've never had to test them, but i can help you further if you answer teh 2 questions i asked above about the fan and dash warning lights! smithy
  15. Well not really as it would run just as bad IMO, 370cc injectors but the chip is mapped for 555 injectors. Is there any warning lights lit up on the dash ? Is the electric Aux fan coming on when you run the engine. If the answer is yes to either one or both the above, then i would suspect the chip from Z1 could be bad. Have you a freind nearby who also has 555 injectors ? maybe swap ECU's You should be able to do the manual ECU giagnostics and this should throw up any error codes. smithy
  16. Certainly as chris says, the downpipes arn't there in your kit, didn't you or someone else ask about these earleir on this year ? anyways you can either have the likes of SVS supply or a mobile welder/fabricator call at Phils when the engine is placed in the engine bay and he makes them there and then ( done the same thing at RC about 9 years ago) you already hav ethe flanges that go onto the de catts from your old pipes, so might just need the flanges that connect to the turbo's themselves for the welder to use. Quite an easy job though if the welder has the correct flanges. All the other silver pipework you already have anyway on your car, just not exactly the same. The picture i posted up is deffo a Greddy kit though :) smithy
  17. I believe an N/A is about 2in longer than a TT and the N/A is a 4 bolt flange compared to a TT's 5 or 6 ?? smithy
  18. Hello and welcome aboard, hope you stay around for a while :) Do the simple test in th elink below to see what's wrong, though it seems like the CAS is not sending the signal to fire the injectors, try it anyways and report back. Only takes 10 mins http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy
  19. Oh Man am at work now and can't see pics if uploaded using certain hosts like photobucket, anyways this pic is what you normally get ( could be the same as yours but i can't see lol) what's missing ?
  20. Well really good to see things are actually getting better, albeit slowly ;) IMO if the ECU does not register one of the 02 sensors, it will compensate and add excess fuel, not much, but enough to be running rich under non load conditions. If you have a look in the meetings section and see who lives closest to you and now the car is running much better, maybe pop round and have a look to compare engine bays. Bare in mind you have removed certain pipes, it's how it's done what could be important. Still think your problems are just a couple of little niggly ones, which by process of elimination, will solve it all :p smithy
  21. No mate, wings deffo stay on :) smithy
  22. Found them http://www.specialvehicle.co.uk/Turbo%20Turbine/turbo.htm Hope that helps, but show pics anyways incase someone else can help. smithy
  23. Oh *****cks, read half a ****ing thing again smithy, dohh DUNNO why i was thinking HKS 2530'S, derr anyway's Nengun do lots of Gredy stuff too, lol and a company called SVS always used to be the official Greddy parts supplier here in the UK. smithy
  24. Any particular parts your looking for bud ? not all are HKS specific and maybe supplied by the likes of say turbo dynamics. Nengun do various sapre parts for HKS turbo's just scroll through the pages http://www.nengun.com/forced-induction/2 smithy
  25. I've no idea what the compression figures should be, but i know all mine averaged bewteen 165-175 on a rebuld that was over 4 years old. Topass! ( sorry mark couldn't resist, see jimmys post, lol) do you know what the average correct figure should be ? Anyway, as said before still sometime before going back to scotts to hopefully eliminate any other possible causes. Simply because everything else needs to be bob on before you can go down the road of a faulty part/or rebuild. smithy

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