Everything posted by Smithy
-
Air filter setup
Once you go map sensor, you can sell your MAF's and get some cash back. You fit virtually any air filter you like that will fit, if the filter has a tube for fitting then a simple connector if it is vehicle specific which has a fitting, theres umpteen adapters on ebay to use so it connects to the pipework. You deffo won't need a vehicle specific like 350z one though. Oh and if your 2nd link of the duel 350z kit, it has the MAF sensor built into the pipework, so may as well just buy the filters and be cheaper. smithy
-
What Turbo's in a Zed
TB22's that's both Auto and Manual Nearest Turbo to it now is a T25 smithy
-
Engine rebuild kit?
No the pistons and rings is about 400 quid mate. It really is sensless you opening a block and fitting new parts but not the weakest one of the lot! The cost and waste of labour should 1 go later on is quite frankly, nuts... You need pistons, bearings and oil pump and various gaskets. Flush out the water and oil gallies, hone the bores, fit new parts and re fit heads, job done. smithy
-
what engine main bearing thickness ??
When buying new bearings, theres a code stamped on them and the crankshaft, this tells you what bearings to then purchase, so ideally you need to open the block. smithy
-
Engine rebuild kit?
If your opening a Zed engine and fitting various new parts like you've listed in the other thread, not fiting new pistons would be insane imo mate. The cost is around 400 quid with rings and will safegaurd your engine for many years to come and will also allow you or any new owner the chance to up the power safely. Your pistons are around 20 years old and are the only part of the block that are not forged, add to that if you or anyone else has or does increase boost then small amounts of Det will see one of them off and it's usually No.6 on pre 94 models. In short, deffo stick new pistons in now while cost is minimal. smithy
-
Japspeed hard pipes - fitting
Nope good question as the engine is slightly angled, it's left and right often can be wrong. In any event with the couplers off the pipes should be about 5-10mm away from any connecting pipe. Once you've done this, to fit them just leave the couplers for 10mins in a bowl of HOT soapy water. Doing 1 pipe at a time, slide a coupler on either end all the way, slide on 4 hose bands losely. Place new pipe where it needs to go, push 1 coupler over and tighten, push 2nd coupler down and tighten, then tighten the remaining 2 hose bands. Do the same for other 3 pipes, ensuring the outer ones are correct as the angles may differ. smithy
-
ECU Water temp sensor
Then you need to take a trip back sometime as you can't have an ECU temp sensor fault and just have a wee bit of excessive fuel consumption. With ignition on try unplugging the temp sensor does the fan come on? Are you sure the ECU is reset as in today or yesterday? On another Nissan i had, a worn TPS would gradually upset the timing over a period of time, reset TPS and timing all great for a few months until it started all over again. smithy
-
ECU Water temp sensor
That's why you need to reset the ECU and check for error codes again as the water temp sensor one should no longer be present. When it gives error codes, it's not always whats wrong now, but what showed very recently when starting the car and thus may no longer exist. Your excessive fuel usage could a few other things and would suggest a conzult test and timing check. smithy
-
ECU Water temp sensor
Think yer best reset the ECU mate, cos when that temp sender goes down it can make the car run like an absolute bag of crap and often not even start. The sub fan should also come on. The ECU may have registered a fault with it very recently that no longer exists. Smithy
-
Lets try the Zedworld bash again!
Man perfectly timed and sooo mystic with same info lol smithy
-
Lets try the Zedworld bash again!
Yep post Number 1 :thumbup1: smithy
-
Con men
Sad to see Jimmer mate, plenty others out there just like it too! Sadly i think it matters not being the 1st owner or the newest owner of that business, both owners have ended up down the same path of destroying a persons love and respect for their Zed not to mention serious damage to their bank balance :blink: Seeing as this guy got some form of a receipt, I can hazard a guess it was the latest owner of that business who done the work, that being his attempt at turning the previous business around to new and improved lol smithy
-
Is my rust redeemable? (FAO Jeff and Jamie also)
tbh mate i very much doubt even the fabricator himself could quote from the pics here. It is quite extensive and he'd be leaving himself open. On top of that you really do need to lift the carpet, what you see there could be the deciding factor to scrap or repair, sozz smithy
-
Is my rust redeemable? (FAO Jeff and Jamie also)
One of the worst i've seen mate. The cruncher will be whats under the carpet in the rear. Lift it up after removing the rear seat base and see how far into the middle of the car it goes. smithy
-
Nice Zed
That bloomin big solenoid that is usually sat next to the power sterring pot and a wire coming out of the power sterring pot lid. Or in the case of teh Zed in the pics, ermm not lol Electric Hicas on late 93 onwards used actuators. cheers smithy
-
Nice Zed
Depending on production date, think theres 93 models as series 3 and some latter ones at series 4. Virtually all that i have read states that 94 onwards is electronic but i think in reality it started mid-late 93 in UK/Jpan anyways. smithy
-
Nice Zed
Do electronic Hicas versions have the solenoid in the engine bay? :-) smithy
-
throttle body removal
Why do you wanna move it? theres a small wee fuel hose under the throttle cable cover in between the throttle bodies, which though a pita is do-able. smithy
-
Best place to get...
Get the lot from Mike Feeney mate, really easy to deal with and extremely quick. smithy
-
Heys guys, Bhp advice
Nismo's as far as i know only failed in the US mate, that was down to an ethanol type additive in their fuel. Never really heard of them failing in the UK and i've ran mine for about 5 years now. As for the AEM a great bit of kit, fancied it myself. John Dixon as of yet doesn't map that one ( other companies do tho) John however favours the Emerald and has just designed a kit for the Zed and mapped one with great results, sure knowing John with plenty more to come. Worth considering :-) cheers smithy
-
Heys guys, Bhp advice
Agree with getting 740's mate, having looked at Z1 site they list that kit quite cheap for the 95+ add the adapter kit and price goes up. For me personally and just a tad more, the Nismo 740cc and adapter kit is my preference. As for chips, I know when doing the various chip swaps Zedworld have done in the past, some have been supplied from the US and had a few problems with them. Again for not much more you can get a chip in the UK from DTA or possibly John Dixon and yes it can be easily swapped over with Zedworlds chip and then remap your ECU when your ready. If you get the cams, you'll need the adapters and heavy duty springs for them too. However in many cases driveability can now be an issue. For me again IMO i'd go the mild JWT cams, there is a core charge, but they are up to the job, you won't need adapters and drive fine. The reason i asked about your rods and pistons was simply cos the word "custom" sadly it's often used by companies to big up what they have done and make the customer feel they have something unique. Can you hazard a guess at the cost to manufature custom pistons and rods, some serious crazy ass money. There are loads of companies offering forged pistons for the Zed starting at just 400 quid a full set including rings. All known brands will happily take 500-600bhp and a lot more. You should certainly get more info on these as certain design pistons ideally would be better with N/A oil squirters rather than the TT ones and of course you need to know your bore size as a minimum. Same goes for Rods, numerous companies make them despite the Zed ones being forged already and again at little money around 400 quid a set. hth :-) Cheers smithy
-
Bargain of the day..
The fronts simply require drilling the lug holes out an extra 2mm ( make sure you get the bolts) in order to fit the calipers and yes the discs just wap on. The rears however require a fair bit of modding to suit. Search the forum as only recently discussed fitting the rears. Normal average price for a full set of front and rear ready to fit is in excess of 800 bucks, however with your luck no doubt you'll get em for 150 quid!!! lol smithy
-
Best garage in the midlands for 300zx?
Did you get a price from Zedworld for this? they have a small company who pick up cars for them all over the UK mate. smithy
-
N/A pump using TT pulley fitting
You can shave a small amount of the backplate and this alters the position of the pump. Your not quite far enough enough out? i know it sounds Irish lol, but it moves it. smithy
-
Chips with everything!!
And that's as they say, "cheap as chips" lol , sorry couldn't resist :taz: smithy