Smithy

Ditto mate, Jeff breaks around half a dozen Zeds at atime and generally because of knackered bodywork or engine and bodywork. Second hand starter on mine 8 years ago, still the same one :-) smithy

Well just done mine so fingers crossed it's the cure. Nice one Jeff on yet another informative and helpful "tip" thread for the members. Think it would be a smashing idea if all these type of threads were put together someplace and stored for future reference. The section could be called "Jeff's top Tips" :rockon: Smithy

Correct mate, they stoppped using the Ally ones due to problems with them, which was overcome by the iron ones. Either way, overhauling calipers, decent pads an discs with fresh fluid, makes a massive improvement! smithy

Must confess maybe a wee bit of elongating fixing holes, maybe a wee sand here and there, maybe a wee bit of filler for the odd blemish and as Znut says a small bit of sanding in the corner. But in all these cases literally a very small amount, anything more, it don't fit!! A bodyshop would charge more than the bleedin bumpers cost to sort out problems otherwise. smithy

Not a lot of use when sat inside the car mate and it's when driving you really wanna know what temps your doing eh? Also just to say aftermarket and very well branded caps have proven to be inefficient, hope it's not the case with summit cheap and bulky like this.... smithy

Deffo show us what you have mate before hacking things. At worst to remove is 1 intake hose on drivers side, 2 clips and job done. Seeing as you don't want to mess with or cut existing wiring, if it already has an adapter plug on it, then it's a few mins fitted mate which sounds your best option for now. If it hasn't, then Dave's idea is the thing to do. smithy

1ST of all nothing needs removing to get the old PTU off except 4 screws that holds it to the cam cover. The 0ne that you bought should have a platic plug either end, now has it got another plug either end attached to it? depending on what you have, it should simply be a case of pluging your existing plug in to an adapter loom. Feel free to post a pic of exactly what you do have so we can give the correct advice. Oh and fixing is a right ball ache and no gaurantee of doing it so it lasts, so not worth bothering about and yes it simply fixes in the old position. smithy

Have you done an ECU diagnostic check? smithy

Nah mate no one really needs to do that, crack on you'll be fine.. smithy

That's the ticket mate, last year i turned up with out a car lol and happily arrive on a Vespa scooter if need be, if i could have got off this bloody Island that is :-) smithy

Sorry mate, the letters used in your registrations means diddly squat to me, we don't have em over here :-) All i was pointing out was it was stated in the ad 94, meaning either a series 3 or 4 and as Quavey pointed out, UK cars go up to 94, so that fits. The interior is later spec imo which also suggested the same. I can understand someone fitting a UK front or rear bumper if thats whats available when being in a bang, but clearly makes no sense in someone doing both bumpers for any reason i can think off. However it was fairly cheap and imo worth checking out in the flesh to see exactly what is the story, if indeed it has one. As that is the only way to be sure what it is or was, oh and year for the likes of me! smithy

UK was until 96 mate as far as i was aware, continued in Japan thereafter. Am saying series 4 based on the add, of course maybe even a series 3. Certainly has later interior to suggest that too. Seems a lot of effort to change various things, if the car is not pretty much as stated, when the changes have no real effect on value or even personal choice. Just to satisfy myself lol i rang this guy 5mins ago and it's just been sold, so kinda finishes that off :) Oh and well done on the boost gauge, i simply accepted what was said above and never really looked to double check. dohhhh smithy

Exactly mate! requesting to see the Cambelt and clutch invoice might reveal a known (to this forum) garage or person who could give further background on the car and certainly veiwing and giving it the once over in person, if alls well, could be a bargain at the sub 2k price stated above :-) smithy

Not quite with yer what's wrong with it fellas. It's a series 4 which don't have boost gauges and certain other things were optional too, cruise being 1 of them, i think! Certainly looks to be full UK spec to me and the pic that might look like folded mirrors, to me ain't. A series 4 TT with Cambelt done at less than 2.5K is bit of a baragin imo. (subject to good body work underneath) Smithy

I know a bit before your time mate, but discussed this many moons ago, check it out it's quite good! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=78096&referrerid=119 Oh and as i've found from catalogues whatever it is they are selling, it nearly always turns out to be the Z31 it referrs too, not saying thats the case here like. smithy

What brand of gauge have you got fella and what sorta readings you getting on most days? Zogg, tbh that adapter is marketed for aftermarket gauges/senders so would hazard a guess it's thread is a more common NPT. TBH can't really see anyone having previously removed ( for what ever reason) a stock sender to fit in an aftermarket holder further away from the existing one, so maybe ask snowleopard when he buys it so he can check. smithy

With the Zeds pumps being some of the most powerful out there that others even use as an upgrade, it would need to be pretty high power tbh mate. smithy

Yes mate as the stock gauge is a non linear gauge and the sender unit has it's resistive values that are pre set for different temps. I personally favour re tapping the stock outlet which is easy being Alloy. No need to keep stock and aftermarket together imo. smithy

Man i sooo wish I could go to this, no matter how far it is. If I did my Ex would have me nuts in a vice seeing as i couldn't mind my kids this weekend cos of work :no: dohh Enjoy everyone! smithy

How much!!!!!!! I really don’t how all you guys put up with all this nonsense from Insurance companies, it would crack me up. Thank god over here no such dramas.... Reading the various threads on this subject though, it is very clear these companies are not consistent with applying their rules and certainly to discriminate because a Zed is Jap is absolutely insane. One can only assume the companies don’t want confirmation that there is no difference in these models, cos obviously it’s potentially less premium for them! I know about a year ago, JeffTT worked with an insurance company to offer competitive insurance to fellow Zedders, being an expert in the field of Zeds they accepted from him that indeed there were no differences that would effect cost’s of replacement parts and so they agreed not to discriminate. On top of that I think there was talk of agreed valuations through Zedworld, classic policies and a scheme to help keep Zeds on the road if after an accident the customer was happy to use quality second parts to restore his car, everyone then would be a winner! Maybe worth chatting to him about it this weekend at the Zedworld bash, cos quite clearly in the world of Zeds at least, customers need affordable, quality insurance with no discrimination between Jap or UK. Good luck :cool3: smithy

He's looking for a perfectly decent running engine now, swap over and then slowly build up the one he takes out. In answer toy our q's mate, scour around and you should find a running engine for a few hundred, hopefully! In rebuilding your own, all the usual by passes, cleran out all the water and oil gallies in the block, new bearings, oil pump,slight rehone to fit forged pistons/rings and new gaskets. That should give you a healthy strong engine, if you have any cash left yeah new injectors 555's if not no biggie when engine in. smithy

NO it's where it says it is in the link posted above for you mate :hammer: smithy

How much you looking to spend? or you wanting to buy cheapo like :-) smithy

Check out the JWT website mate, see what they have there :wink: smithy

Better results is simple mate, when using a map sensor get rid of any MAFS working or not. Fit big filters where most air hits them and pipe up to them. When buying a vehicle specific filter, your also paying for it's fitting or design to be fitted to a MAF. Personally for me 2 universal Apexi's is the job just fitted where you think best for a draw of air. smithy