Smithy

I'll be honest and say IMO i've never been the happiest with Turbo technics and their after sales, i used to sell turbo's for Zeds many years ago and swiftly moved from them to turbo dynamics whose turbos i sold for a long time after. Anyway the spec is okay, a simple hybrid of yours to a t25 stage 1 for 1200 quid. smithy

Ferrodo ds2500 are a very good pad, albeit a bit dusty with some discs. Top tip! don't buy your discs before your calipers otherwise your stuck with what calipers you need as the discs are not same offsett Skyline to 350Z smithy

Sorry can't help with the differences, though i would assume the RS being more powerfull and possibly newer model. Maybe search a turbo website. However genuine T28's are or at least should be a 5 bolt turbo, the only exception i've seen to this is the chinese copies on ebay advertising a t28 to suit the Zed which had been altered to be a 4 bolt. Obviously a T28R was on the S15 and lesser version on S14 and Pulsar. smithy

First off do a basic ECU self diagnostic to ensure no other fault is present, only takes 10mins. If your a 100% that both the fuse and the relay in the drivers foot panel area and the small fuse box by brake booster are fully working, you have 2 last options i can think off. The ECU sends a signal to the Green relay, the function within the ECU that does this can blow, not often, but it happend to me many years ago. swapping ECU's is a quick way of telling. Lastly a fuel pump problem, however even more rarer than the ECU problem. Do your ECU diagnostic first and report back what code it gives you. smithy

Any good news? smithy

Yikes big money then!! Who done all that for yer? In the side panel by your right foot drivers side is a Green relay sends the ECU signal to the fuel pump, so try that. Assume the car won't start then? Theres also another small fuse/relay for the pump in the small fuse box in engine bay next to the brake booster. smithy

Do you get the noise when the car is staionary and you simply rev it? if so at what Revs does it start? smithy

No relation to the fuel pump at all, So your new system starts as high up as the turbo's then? your not talking about the car sensors lower down? smithy

Calsonic are manufactures of Rads and coolers for many cars as standard fitment. Never known them to do aftermarket, however i guess it is possible, just not usual. smithy

Or a grilled SPAM sarnie mate :lol: Nice one! smithy

I wish i could mate as i owned it for 10 years, but sadly due to an at last ex wife who would put cruella de ville to shame, her equally as bad advocate and the family courts system, think i've got about 3 more years paying debts off dohhh Hey ho that's life! smithy

To give you some idea of costs of some great pieces on this car. Genuine 99 spec carbon fibre centre console, ash tray, door switch surrounds and upside down switches and carbon fibre steering wheel, over 1K Wheels over 1.6K Front brakes over 1.2K Engine over 4K Carbon carbon clutch and FLY nearly 2K Paintwork over 4K Front lights 1.6K Numerous other custom jobs done. Thats's not all of it, So yes a lot of car! Smithy

Lol the FRONT Nissan 99 spec lights, 99 spec rears and new window and targa rubbers cost more that 2.5K!!!! Sad, very sad smithy

Perhaps a selin jobbie would have been easier mate? Check out this old thread. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2381006/Installed-Selin-Dual-MAF-Translator-today-Big-thumbs-up.html Smithy

This is of course assuming the AA were correct in their assumption given how much the belt area is covered. A sudden break in connection to the PTU can result in a low bang and failure to start thereafter. Maybe worth at least going to view the car if not too far away? Smithy

Don't worry mate you'll get there, eventually! If your happy the right fuse is out and the starting sounded no nearer to fire, then you should be able to rule out flooding, however it is easy to happen in these situations so bare that in mind. The PTU can still be a fault even though you tried a spare one, it's happened many times before. In the link i sent you was how to re set the ECU, i think? if so do that tomorow and see if your still getting the same error code. If the ECU itself was goosed you would normally have the electric fan on on ignition and all warning lights staying on, however another 5 minute job to swap over and try. As previously suggested, post up a couple of fairly close up engine bay shots so we can see if alls well as it should be. smithy

Weird shit lol IF it comes on when trying to start the car now it points to something else. However constantly trying to start a cold zed can flood it, once flooded it don't wanna know. So a quick test, The wedge shaped small fuse box by the brake booster drivers side, pull out the wee Green strange fuse for the fuel pump. With good strong power in the battery, try to start it 5 or 6 times, if it's flooded it should start about the 6th go or at very least splutter to almost start. Oh and have seen previously known working series 1 PTU's work on 1 car, swapped over and didn't wanna know on the other car and then never worked again. smithy

Is the electric fan coming on when you turn the ignition on and try to start? The code will remain for so many starts until cleared by disconnecting the battery for a while or reset of the ECU. smithy

Dial this number below and ye shall have your answer :-) 01675 463134 ( 2 x lines ) Oh and i know it's xmas, but good luck getting yer Zed in as quick as that, they is a very busy garage and for good reason! smithy

That's your PTU then mate. Clean the connections really well and try another. smithy

If it is the CAS, it will show up as an error code. Bare in mind it might show more than 1 code, so count the flashes in between each time it pauses, the same number of flashes repeated is just the 1 code. smithy

Well that certainly points to the CAS, so fingers crossed thats it. smithy

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy

How?? Anyway, now your getting there, a basic ECU diagnostic would show which 1 of the 2 main sensors that stops the zed from starting, much as a conzult would, assuming it is a sensor that is. Both the CAS and ECU temp sensor being the obvious ones, nip out and do one it only takes 5 mins. smithy

Is your starter working now mate? smithy